British T-class

[toppack]

Thanks for the reply, but please read my above posts. I've explained that, as to why I can't. It's too negative and I can't remove any weight or it will roll when surfaced.

[Subculture]

Have you trimmed the boat so it's negatively buoyant when the tank is flooded?

If so add some more foam,above the waterline until you get the boat so that just the tip of the conning tower is above the surface, then use the hydrovanes to drive it under.

[toppack]

As I said in post #229, it Crash-dives with water in chamber, that's why I need to add more flotation, and the only place left to add it (below or at surfaced waterline) is to remove part of the chamber or put foam inside it, which I will try next.
I may be able to test and take pics tomorrow.
I'm also fighting a small leak at the toggle-switch, which I need to work on. :(

[Kazzer]

My question was if removing part of the very long ballast-chamber would be okay, but Never mind, I'll work it out on my own. I realize a question like that Can't be answered with just yes or no, and can get very complicated.

You didn't answer the question -- Can you explain exactly how you set up the trim? With the ballast tank full of water not foam, take a photo of the boat in the water. Lets see if you've trimmed it right. It should sit with the tip of the conning tower out of the water.

Nor did show us what you did with the foam trimming the boat. Did you in fact get it to periscope depth with the ballast tank full of water?

[toppack]

My question was if removing part of the very long ballast-chamber would be okay, but Never mind, I'll work it out on my own. I realize a question like that Can't be answered with just yes or no, and can get very complicated.
I think the foam inside the chamber will help, just need to get time to test it. And cutting off part of it would cause a problem with it's bulkhead mounting pad, also, so really don't want to do that, if I don't have to.

[Kazzer]

Rick

I think everyone is confused as to your intent here with the ballast. Why don't you take the top off the boat & take some shots of the foam you've put into the hull. Lets see what you've been up to in there.

Can you explain exactly how you set up the trim? With the ballast tank full of water not foam, take a photo of the boat in the water. Lets see if you've trimmed it right. It should sit with the tip of the conning tower out of the water.

[toppack]

I dunked the SD alone in the hot-tub and that end floats like cork, with remainder of chamber full of water, so it should help greatly in the hull. :)
I wasn't too sure about cutting a straight, clean cut in that tube without damaging something. Like maybe my only good hand. :)

[toppack]

Still no Help for the confused T-class builder, I see.
Oh-well I'll see what my burger-patties do. :)
May not be able to test this weekend tho.

See pic:

[toppack]

Well, I put four 1" thick foam burger-patties in forward end of the ballest chamber. I'll get it all back together and try to test it again tomorrow. That should help some, just don't know if it's enough.

[toppack]

I had another idea. I could just put foam inside the ballast chamber, since it has removable end-cap. That way I can add or remove it as needed, and test it that way. That would almost be the same as reducing the chamber size.

[toppack]

I found that if I cut off any, it will have to be 2.8", because of large hole in bottom and tank attached to top.

David,
Is that something I should do to improve flotation and reduce sink rate and level?
That will give about 12"X3.5" ballast-chamber.
It's Not really safely usable the way it is now. (Like a Lead Balloon)
I've got to get more flotation in this heavy thing somehow?

[toppack]

I'm still having trouble with flotation balance of the T-class. Since I had to add so much lead-weight in keel to get it level, she sinks way too 'fast and furious' when the ballast-tank starts filling with water.
What I'm now considering is cutting off part of the ballast-chamber to shorten it and installing more flotation-foam in that space. It's about 15" long now, which I think is too large? I think the extra foam will bring it up closer to proper depth when surfaced also.
I would appreciate any thoughts on that before I do it, because it would be difficult to stick back on? :)

[toppack]

I found a way to attach the cable at bow, have it removable, and also hide the attachment point.
Also allows for the tension to be adjusted, if needed.
It's not attached exactly at the original location but close.
I'll take some pictures tomorrow.

[toppack]

The Monster now has an Anchor and Eyebrows. :)
It sure had a small Anchor for that size boat!

I want to install the Cables that go between tower and the bow & stern. There's no problem with one to stern but the one to bow needs to be detachable so the deck/cover can be completely removable.
So, I'll need to devise a quick-disconnect at the bow end. I haven't figured out the best way to do that yet?
Maybe just a 'Hook & Loop'?
Any suggestions?

[toppack]

Well Drat! I can't find an Anchor the correct size and type. Suppose I'll have to make that also?
I'm thinking about sculpting it from epoxy-putty attached to a short piece of square brass tube, drilled with several holes, so putty will be attached well to the tube. Then tube will go thru hole in hull, glued on inside.
Anyone have a better solution for a 1/48th-scale WW2 British Anchor?

Any ideas for the Anchor?

Actually the chain across bow is the 'Monsters Eyebrows'! :D