I don't know the details, but I think the only load was the motor itself.
David,
British T-class
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If my calculations are correct, a 24.ohm resistor would be best, if the cap is charged to 12.volts?Leave a comment:
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Did he use a current limiting resistor, in series with the Cap, to slow down the discharge or was cap connected directly to motor, thru switch?Leave a comment:
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:D LOL :D
Just tryin to get 'the full picture'.
I'll give it a try. I'm always Open to new Ideas. ;)
Thanks,Leave a comment:
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But the charge would only last for less than 1 second, wouldn't it? It seems that the torpedo would Not get very far, with a motor drawing 600. milliamps or so?
Did he have some very Low current motors?
I'll experiment with various capacitors on these motors and see how long they last.
And Recharging them at the lake could be a Real hassel? ;)
Don't make this any harder than you have too! Stop arguing with me, damit!
David,Leave a comment:
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But the charge would only last for less than 1 second, wouldn't it? It seems that the torpedo would Not get very far, with a motor drawing 600. milliamps or so?
Did he have some very Low current motors?
I'll experiment with various capacitors on these motors and see how long they last.
And Recharging them at the lake could be a Real hassel? ;)Last edited by toppack; 12-25-2008, 10:39 AM.Leave a comment:
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I found 2 small DC motors in my junk-box, in some mini-servos that had bad gears, so I may try to use them in my Torpedos.
At 2.5 volts (2 Ni-Cad batteries) the RPM is good and have enough torque, but I was hopeing to find motors that would run well on 1 battery. These won't. :rolleyes:
Finding some that will operate at that low voltage may be very difficult. :confused:
David,Leave a comment:
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I found 2 small DC motors in my junk-box, in some mini-servos that had bad gears, so I may try to use them in my Torpedos.
At 2.5 volts (2 Ni-Cad batteries) the RPM is good and have enough torque, but I was hopeing to find motors that would run well on 1 battery. These won't. :rolleyes:
Finding some that will operate at that low voltage may be very difficult. :confused:Last edited by toppack; 12-25-2008, 09:57 AM.Leave a comment:
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Okay Great, I may go ahead and get the drawings sometime soon but I'll need to wait until I completely finish the boats I'm working on now before ordering the Hull and SD for the T-class. Maybe you will have brought down the price of the hull some, by then, ya reckon? :)
You certainly know which drawings I will Need, better than I, so I'll let you deside on those.Last edited by toppack; 12-23-2008, 11:53 AM.Leave a comment:
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[quote=toppack;745]
Mike,
What's your opinion on that, and don't say 'rack-and-pinion'. :)
/quote]
The model comes with these planes and rudders already molded, they look scale to me. The connection is simple. I did it easily on my S Class. Bell crank, rudder works the same way, and plenty ( well enough) room.
I also have numerous plans of T Class. We just need to figure out which ones you want and order a new set from John Lambert.Last edited by Kazzer; 01-17-2009, 08:36 AM.Leave a comment:
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I have an extra that I got for my full-scale '34 Ford Hot-rod.
Do you think that will fit ? :D
Mike,
What's your opinion on that, and don't say 'rack-and-pinion'. :)
Also:
In the picture of the T-class Ventral-fin it appears that it is longer than original, (not to scale).
Is this correct? If so, the Rudder would be larger than scale also ??? Which would be 'a good thing' I believe?
See drawing and Fin Pic in previous posts:Last edited by toppack; 12-22-2008, 04:10 PM.Leave a comment:
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It appears that one the most difficult parts, of the T-class, to fabricate, will be the aft dive-plane linkage-arm-assembly, which will need to be down inside the large ventral-fin, since the DP shaft is mounted about half way down the Fin.
May have to use a bell-crank to route the linkage 90 degrees down into fin ???
Is that the best way, or is there a simpler way?
Does the fin maybe have enough access space inside it to get in a bent linkage rod ?
(this is a large model)
I suppose I could move the DPs up higher than original position. Few people would know the difference ;), but they really need to be directly behind the props, correct?
Fin Pic:
David,Leave a comment:
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It appears that one the most difficult parts, of the T-class, to fabricate, will be the aft dive-plane linkage-arm-assembly, which will need to be down inside the large ventral-fin, since the DP shaft is mounted about half way down the Fin.
May have to use a bell-crank to route the linkage 90 degrees down into fin ???
Is that the best way, or is there a simpler way?
Does the fin maybe have enough access space inside it to get in a bent linkage rod ?
(this is a large model)
I suppose I could move the DPs up higher than original position. Few people would know the difference ;), but they really need to be directly behind the props, correct?
Fin Pic:Last edited by toppack; 12-22-2008, 10:58 AM.Leave a comment:
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British T-class
I want to build the T-class in 1/48th scale if possible, and I think I can build working Torpedos in 1/48th (1/4") scale.
I've seen motors that size (less than 1/2" diameter) for sale somewhere, if I can find them again.
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I've even decided which T-class to model.
The group-3, HMS Tally-Ho (P317). I think that Very British sounding name is just Great.
The name was chosen by Winston Churchill.
She had a Red-Fox for their Badge-crest,
And had some Interesting exploits during the war and survived it.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HMS_Tally-Ho_(P317)
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I found a readable drawing, showing general layout of most parts of the T-class.
Anyone have any better, more detailed drawings or pictures of deck hardware, such as guns and tower-internals?
Thanks,
Click Drawing Pic:Last edited by toppack; 02-18-2009, 09:33 AM.Tags: None
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