Okay, Great, Thanks
I guess 1.5" would be best available size to use.
I'll wait until I start working on the shaft assemblies to determine that, tho.
Hey, I might even be able to squeeze in my 2 inchers. :D LOL :D (Hot-rod Model-T) :D
Not really, that would be Wrong. :p
British T-class
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Propellers!
5 feet 4 inches diameter!!!! It's official from Blighty.
So your props for the T class at 1:48 scale = 1.3" diameterLeave a comment:
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Anyone know what color the deck and tower, of the Tally-ho, were painted? I doubt there were ever any color pictures of any of the T-class Subs. I have not found anything about what colors were used. I assume it was primarily a Dark Gray?
But they could have been Blue, or even Red 'for all I Know'. :D
The Tally-ho appears to be a much darker color than some of the T-class, but not black.
The lower hull does appear to be black, tho.Last edited by toppack; 12-28-2008, 09:20 PM.Leave a comment:
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That hull configuration is already similar to the boat I've desided to model, the 'Tally-Ho', with 8 forward and 3 aft tubes, (mid war config), so not much of a problem there.
See Pic:
Yes, I agree, Aluminum is the way to go, with fabing DPs and fins, and I have plenty in stock just waiting to be transformed. :)Last edited by toppack; 12-28-2008, 03:54 PM.Leave a comment:
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Mike, You made me feel much better about this project. :)
Thanks for the Info,Leave a comment:
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I have MANY more pictures.
Actually, there are few errors with this model. I would say that its a pretty good representation of the boat. You have to realise that the T class was rife with modifications. If you follow the life of some of these boats, you'll see that they morphed into different things as they went through their life. In the latter stages of the war, many Ts were turned into 'Slippery T's which stripped them of guns and many surface holes in an effort to quieten them.I noticed many things about them that I didn't realize before. One is that they (at least most of them) had large fixed horizontal fins mounted above the aft dive-planes. I would definitely want to add these, to help protect the DPs and props.
I also saw other errors in the design of the 1/48th hull kit.
See the two photos of Trump - note the sonar on the bow, and all guns missing.
The tubes are round, and just need cutting out.
No, its not correct. The openings are round and are the same size.
That depends on what you decide to do. There are no guns or internals for the conning tower with the kit. The forward dive planes are molded and I don't like them, because they were made of flat sheet metal, not profiled. I made mine from brass sheet. The plane guards are made from the same. Probably better to cut them from aluminum as you will need to reduce above waterline weight. The rear planes are supplied, as is the rudder.
Conning towers change with the wind, but if you go with a Slippery design, this should be easy to carve out from some foam, then fiberglass.
I'll set up a slideshow of all the photos I have, and sort out the plans.Leave a comment:
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I found and purchased a Great reference Book on the T-class.
It's 'The T-class Submarine' by Paul J. Kemp.
It has many good pictures and very Interesting Information.
I noticed many things about them that I didn't realize before. One is that they (at least most of them) had large fixed horizontal fins mounted above the aft dive-planes. I would definitely want to add these, to help protect the DPs and props.
I also saw other errors in the design of the 1/48th hull kit.
Some of these will be major modifictions to the model. Such as the shape of the flank-mounted torpedo-tubes, which should be round at opening, not triangle shaped. :(
See first Pic:
Also the lower bow torpedo-tubes appear to be smaller than the others. That can't be correct? I think all the tube openings will need to be cut out and reworked to get them looking correct?
See second Pic:
This is turning into a much bigger project than I expected!
I'll not only have to fabricate a great deal of the parts but I'll also need to correct much that has been done already. :(
Sorry, Mike, but I calls 'em Like I sees 'em.
If I'm wrong, please let me know, I am Only looking at pictures, that may not be true representations?Last edited by toppack; 12-27-2008, 09:28 PM.Leave a comment:
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I just found a nice set (L & R) of Raboesch props in 2" diameter, in my goody-box.
I hope they will work?Leave a comment:
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1" props sounds finda small for 1/48th scale, but I guess that could be correct?
3 bladed will be easier to find.Leave a comment:
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I think I have a couple of props somewhere:)
I do need to check on the size, but I think they are 1" diamete, according to Lambert plans. They are three bladed. I'll ask on a the Barrow forum to see if someone can give us a more precise answer.Leave a comment:
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Okay, Looks like I'll be doing some more experimenting, unless someone knows details of the Capacitor powered Torpedo design ??? Because it definitely sounds like it's worth a try, if I can round up the needed components, from my Goody-boxes. :)Last edited by toppack; 12-25-2008, 05:34 PM.Leave a comment:
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