Project type XXI scale 1/96

[MFR1964]

Shutter doors, retract and functional bow planes, internal linkages for the rudder and stern planes... what's next!!???? You're taking me back to school, pal.

Hopefully to get a functional model

Manfred

[MFR1964]

Manfred,
You are a flipping show off, over achiever, and a I don't know what else to call you. Amazing work my friend. Look forward to what is next and I will be keeping notes on what you do.
Peace,
Tom

I'ts called Manfredizing

Manfred

[Das Boot]

I have to agree with David on this one, Manfred, you’re a mad man.

[MFR1964]

Mad Man indeed, it must be my slight disorder from static scratch building,

Did some work on testing the retract mechanism, pictures


Made some provisional rods attached to the forward diving-planes, so i can start testing

Also made a short vid to show the actual movement.

https://youtu.be/rjT1Iaaghfo?si=0dulZ60NsW7o3sNu

I suspect it will be a smoother action when connected to the servo's, for now it's good enough to see the concept is working.

Manfred.

[MFR1964]

Made some connections to the bowpart, ran into a issue with the shutters and started a concept for a seperate wtc for a motor, pictures



I ran into this, the shutters pivot outside the hull when opened, this is due to the central pivotpoint i made to open the shutters, the bow is curved and a central pivotpoint will give you a linear motion.
To solve this you have to make two seperate hinges for each shutter, cutted open the toppart for this.


Done this with the jewelerssaw, taking the weldinglines as my guide.



Closed and opened shutters, much better as before.




Due to the open cutted toppart i can show how the mechanism for opening and closing is working.


First stage for making the connection for the forward dive/planes, this is only for the up and down motion.




Connection made for retracting the dive-planes.



Connection made for opening the torpedo-shutters.



Made a concept to see if this will work, did some testing under power and it seems that this will be a solution instead of running the motors in the wet.


Had to place the motor out of line, this way the shafts will be in line with the shafts of the XXI


Next step to get this working, used a lipseal and a piece of copper tube to get things turning.

Building a seperate WTC for the motor is a side project which i can work on between things, first i have to alter the powerswitch of the SD, i can't close the upperdeck because the switch is too high on the SD,

Manfred.

[redboat219]

Got a link for those lip seals?

[MFR1964]

Sorry no link, bought at a local store

Manfred.

[Subculture]

Thats too loosely fitting for proper steering. Id use a miniature belt drive,too

What about all the gears in your servos?

[MFR1964]

Done some detailwork on the decks, found a solution for the powerswitch and some more work on the enclosed E motor,


The powerswitch was sitting too high on the SD, had to alter the thickness of the plexiglass which holds the switch, this allows me to put the deck on without any issue's.


Made a hidden hatch to reach the powerswitch.


Using this hatch allows me to power up the boat without opening the model.


Also made this contraption to steer the upper divingplanes, stole this idea from David's XXI





Don't know how you guys call them, but they are used in the harbour to line up the boat, in real live they turn them and lift by hand 90 degrees to get them up or down, i opted for just pushing in when not needed, this is done on the forward deck.




Pretty much the same story on the after deck, compared to the front there are less.


Main components on the enclosure, designed a way to keep the second gear at it's place.


A close-up of the design i used, the rim is turned down on the lathe to get a fit inside the tube.



Taped up for a dryfitt, that bent tube at the back will be used to connect to the SD, this way i can equalize the pressure when running the motor.



In theory this will replace the two motors in the wet, it will be a tight fitt, first i have to do some testing if the enclosure works as intended.


Manfred.

[redboat219]

How did you do those mind blowing 1/96 retracting bollards?

I'm amazed you didn't build it as a dry hull.

[DrSchmidt]

There are retracting bollards?

[MFR1964]

How did you do those mind blowing 1/96 retracting bollards?

I'm amazed you didn't build it as a dry hull.

Kept it simple, made a jigg for drilling and added some stainless steel 1 mm rods for the bollards.
In this size a dryhull is a no no, going with a cilinder is the way, the wall thickness is not enough to stand the pressure involving a dryhull.

Manfred.

[MFR1964]

There are retracting bollards?

Yup retracting bollards, kept it simple, KISS, just put them up and down by hand.

Manfred.

[MFR1964]

Drilled out all the floodholes, this took me almost a week, doing it a few at the time, some more work on the housing of the E-motor and a bummer while testing it for watertightness.


This is how she stands now, all floodholes opened and as a test added some antenna wires from small copper wire, have to replace them in the future for the permanent version.


Closed the panel which a had to cut open with some rtv, since you can remove the upperdeck made a pin attached to the front antenna-wire which you can remove.


It's just a pressfitt, the pin will stay at it's place when needed.



Added some flat lead to counteract the weight of the conningtower, in the future i have to see if i need more lead during trimming.


First stage in closing up the housing, added a styrene plate to isolate the electric connections


Pushed in the styrene plate, ready to be sealed with RTV.


Geared side sealed with RTV.


Rearpart sealed with RTV, the electrical connections are sealed with Epoxy glue, also glued in the wires since they will be moved around in the future while connecting to the main SD, hopefully it will prefent the cables from breaking.


Made the connection on the SD for attaching the motor housing, giving me two things at once, i can pressure test the SD and the motor housing seperatly.


This was the bummer, gave some light pressure on the housing and it was not sealed enough, i suspect the pressure was still too high for the RTV.

Will repeat this test when the housing is sealed with Epoxy glue, giving me more strength on the endcaps, some times thing work, other times you have to come with a different solution, so back to the drawingboard.


Manfred.

[MFR1964]

Reglued the housing and made it fit inside the hull,


Took some epoxy-glue and sealed the housing, used the clamp for keeping things together.


Glueing it together with epoxy-glue did the trick, it's watertight, did some testing to see if waterhammering would occure using the gears, both directions work without problems.


This way the housing will be connected to the SD, if the housing turns warm the overpressure will go to the SD which has a greater volume inside.


Took out the old motor foundations, those where only attached with some CA.


A testfit if there is enough room to place the housing, by placing it on a slight angle there is just enough room.


Made some copper straps to keep the housing at it's place, when needed you can loose the screws and take it out.


Everything connected, except the shafts, did some testing, for now everything works fine.


Did some testing on the forward dive-planes and torpedo shutters, those tiny servo's don't have the power to move things which demand a bit more force, have to change them for some stronger examples


Manfred.