Albacore continued

[trout]

Mark, yeah you can see the difference. It is really coming together. Outstanding work.

[greenman407]

Thanks for all the well wishes. I will be starting on modifying my single motor 3" D&E WTC into a two motor jobber.

[greenman407]

Moving right along..........belatedly. Ok , here we see our tried and true D&E Miniatures 3" WTC single motor. It works GREAT! Always has. Very good control over vent and blow functions. I can make my Albacore hover without any problem. You are looking for the sweet spot. If you add a touch too much gas, hit a touch of vent. Youll get it. Well now out comes the single motor bulkhead and in with the twin motor job. Im glad the one Dave........OH.............I MEAN....He who shall not be Blamed, sent me, has the 1/8" push rods seals. Thats what I have been using on her. Im going to get some small countersunk screws and use them to mount the motors to the bulkhead instead of glueing them in. Then we will "Permatex Sleeve Retainer" glue the two brass gears to the motor shafts. Looking up inside the new Graupner Speed 400 motors I can see the suppression capaciters installed inside the endbell so we are good there. I will map out all the old wiring on paper in addition to these photos to ease reassm.

[greenman407]

[greenman407]

[greenman407]

Here we are with the motors mounted to the motor mount using screws and blue loctite. This required marking and drilling the holes and then countersinking the heads so that they dont stick out. If they do then it will interfere with the motor endcap going together. To attach the brass gears to the motor shafts I roughed them up a bit with the dremel cutofff wheel and then using "Sleeve Retainer" I glued them on. This stuff is mean! Youve got about 30 seconds to get it in position before you will not be able to move it.

[greenman407]

So, after the Gears are set up a little its put together with Brass 6/32" screws. After carefully measuring the distance available within the rear compartment, the alluminum servo tray is modified since its too long now with the two motors taking up more space that the single motor did with the different end cap.




Also now the Tray is cut where you see the pencil pointing as it gets attached on the side of the end cap instead of on the rear.

[greenman407]

The Thor Manfg. APC became twitchy. Thatll never due. Out with the old and in with the new. Ive got a Caswell/Mcleod unit that Ill put in there. Should have the WTC finished Tommorrow night. Then Ive got to make two drive shafts and hook up the planes. Ive always used positive conn. ball joints. Since these are going to be hooked up down in the bottom I think Ill use the magnetic connectors that Caswell sells. Thatll make it easier. Then its on to trimming the boat for submerged trim and then for surface trim.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Though dynamically ballanced, those X-planes will present, in some situations, a big load on the linkage. You are advised to 'float' the control surface pushrod so it won't fall to the bottom of the stern if the magnetic coupling temporarily breaks. It the magnets will re-unit as soon as you move the transmitter stick in the appropriate direction. Word to the wise, Mark.

David

[greenman407]

By "Float" I percieve that you mean holding them up by means of a guide? What about a piece of plastic tubing extending out past the magnet like a sleeve so that if they disconnect, its still inside the sleeve?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

By "Float" I percieve that you mean holding them up by means of a guide? What about a piece of plastic tubing extending out past the magnet like a sleeve so that if they disconnect, its still inside the sleeve?

Perfect!................................

[greenman407]

Caught the flu bug wednesday night. Ive been stuck in bed all thursday. I plan to get back after this thing on Saturday. Ive been working on hooking up the stern planes and getting everything else ship shape. After wiring up the dual Speed 400 motors I could immediately see that the Thor speed control wasnt going to cut it. So I ordered a Marine 15 amp job from Caswell along with a BEC with more capacity than my Dimension Engineering unit and an extra ADF2. Saturday afternoon Ill be heading to the water to trim this thing. Its coming along.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Rest! The toys can wait.

David

[Subculture]

The Thor Manfg. APC became twitchy.

I have one those. It uses an ADXl202 accelerometer sensor to measure the level, and that feeds directly into a pic microcontroller. These were one of the first sensors of this type to come on the market. They're pretty rugged and reliable so I would be surprised if it has gone bad, although not impossible. might be worth checking the little trim pots used to select the sensitivity and adjust the level position, if one of those has gone a bit scratchy it could cause problems.

Also might be worth giving the board a scrub with some acetone or isopropanol, as beign an exposed board it could have picked up contamination. If the sensor itself has gone bad, it's probably not worth repairing- the ADXL202 has long been surpassed and I can only find them surplus where they sell for well above their value. The manufacturer, Analog devices might have a pin for pin replacement, but I don't know for sure.

[greenman407]

Well it may not be bad after all. I put a Caswell ADF2 in place of it and it does the same thing. They dont like it when I turn on the two drive motors. Im working on it. Im thinking about putting it upfront with the battery and speed control in the forward compartment. Im also trying to isolate the ADF2 from the vibration of the two motors. I can swap out another ADF2 and see if it makes any difference. The only other thing I can readily think of is the motors come with two capaciters instead of three. The one that normally goes across between the two terminals is missing.