Albacore continued
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Continuing on with this thing. Im am presently working in the front battery compartment where I am locating the ADF. I am mounting it to the top of the 3s Lipo battery and applying sorbothane to the battery at every place it touches the Subdriver walls. Then attaching battery hold downs so that the Lipo stays put and doesnt throw off the CG. Then we will commence on the bellcrank assm. to transfer the pushrod forward that will operate the sail rudder.IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
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Between today and yesterday I cobbled together a few things here. I wrapped the Lipo in Sorbothane as you can see here to try to keep vibrations at bey. I attached the ADF2 to the top front of the Lipo and the supporting wires with CA and a wire tie. The bellcrank assm. I fashioned out of thin brass strip and silver soldered a foot on it and CAed it to the back of the Subdriver motor bulkhead. Itll transfer forward the motion of the servo to move the sail rudder. Ill adjust the locations the pushrods are attached in the servo arms and rudder arm to change movement amounts of the rudder.
IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
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Here we are adapting the old linkages to the new and trimming areas in the upper hull that was not letting it come down all the way and mate up with the lower.IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
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Today I finalized the Subdriver internals. After testing it for operations, results seem promising. No stern plane flutter at all. Thats critically important for a submarine thats going to run at speed. So far, so good. I ordered a new Dubro product. These aluminum ball link connectors. Ill install them tomorrow on the stern plane linkages. Then Ill need to remove the right hand upper stern plane and get it drilled and bored for install of LED.
IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
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Today I got the linkages finalized and tested. Then I remembered the install of the LED into the stern plane. I knew it would be a challenge because it was nerve racking enough doing the Skipjack(scamper). The Albacores planes are thinner. But I was successful owing to two things:
(1) Ya gotta larn to hold ya mouth right when drilling and Dremeling. Thats very important!
(2) Good clean livin.
That was all I had time for today.IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
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Mark,
When you get the LED installed and working, if you do not like the way it looks, you may want to frost the outside to diffract the light a bit out the sides. Another option is a watered down white coating. LED are designed to direct light out the dome end and not as much from the sides. It may not be necessary.If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.Comment
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If you need smaller LEDs there is a fellow in Germany selling micro SMD LEDs with long leads attached on Ebay, very good prices and shipping. Should not be too hard to water proof em' for sub use.... his ebay store is called "ledbaron" all sorts of sizes, colours,etc...
here are some I am using as nav lights on a 1/72 MH60S Knighthawk.....from memory these are the supersmall ones .8mm x 1mm I think.
Cheers BruceLast edited by HvyCGN9; 06-01-2015, 06:16 AM.Comment
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Today I putted and poked around the shop....er....carport and made adjustments to the linkages and strengthened them. I reinstalled the stern plane that got the LED treatment. If youll note in the previously posted pictures I cut a groove in the bottom of the plane to run the wires in up to the plane mounting shaft(see below). From there I drilled a hole right in front of the bushing in the hull for that shaft and chamfered the edges so that the wires could be free to move but not be seen. then I ran the LED wires all the way up front. The next step will be the linkage for the sail rudder and adjusting submerged and surface trim.Last edited by greenman407; 06-07-2015, 06:45 PM.IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
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The sail rudder is finished and tested. Works good. Daves use of a ADF-2 to control the sail rudders operation is probably the best way to go. The reason Im not doing it that way is because of the picked up vibrations that would cause it to flutter. As you know, I have gone to great lengths to reduce that to nil. I didnt want to have to do it again, in the same boat with another APC. As you have seen in the previous pictures, I use double Klikons on the sail rudder connection. I orient the one to north and the other one to south, causing it to be self-aligning. Also, I put the pushrod Z-bend on the top of the attachment arm at the rudder itself so that the weight of the pushrod is supported by the arm itself , so its not falling all over the place. It stays put. To hook it up , I just put the top hull in place and the magnets automatically snap it into place. But they are not so strong that its hard to dis-engage. Just lift off the top and it pops apart. So Ive started out with a large amount of rudder movement. We will see how it goes. I am filling the kiddie pool as Im writing this. Shortly we will do a check on trim.IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
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