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Who is John Galt? -
What links the large belcrank mounted in the hull aft the driver to the forward planes torque tube? It must be magnetic to grab the ball end in the torque tube arm. What ever it is I don't see one in the kit. I did get some of the control linkages hooked up. Looks like I'll have to hog out a little of the supports in the upper hull for the forward planes torque tube and control rod.
JayLast edited by beeryboats; 12-18-2011, 05:00 PM.Comment
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Looks good!If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.Comment
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WARNING! Do not use the supplied power wire with the kit, it is too large. My frustration level with this build is about off the meter. I was on my fourth or fifth attempt to pull the wire throught the brass tube in the balast tank and the tube came with the wire. I was gently pulling with some piano wire and pushing with some super long needle nose pliers and the whole thing shot forward. I had even lubed the wire with light oil. I don't know if it was held in with just oring seals or glued in place. It's going to be glued now that's for sure. I'm going to have to down size the wire as well to get it to fit.
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Ok, I've calmed down a little bit. The #$%%^$ tube has already been pulled loose and replaced so what's it gonna hurt to pull it out again? I may just push it out gently and pull the original wire through it, then glue it back in place with CA. David, maybe you can step in here and help a guy out. I didn't see any orings in the center castings. Is the tube supposed to be glued in?Last edited by beeryboats; 12-20-2011, 09:43 PM.Comment
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Grease the wire, don't oil it, and there are o-rings embedded in the bulkheads, so that's your watertight seal. You can RTV the conduit tube once you're happy with everthing, no biggie.
DavidWho is John Galt?Comment
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Beeryboats, I pulled my wire through, but I may re-do it because I might be putting a servo or another mini snort back there and need that room. I CA'd a string to the end of the wire, got the string through then pulled by the string and pushed with long nose pliers. I will posted pics on my build.If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.Comment
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Ok, I'll try it again with grease. If it pops out again I may try letting it come all the way forward so I can pull / push the wire through, then put the whole thing back in the bulkheads.
JayComment
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I did something simular. I used a very small gauge wire push rod with a Z bend in one end. I threaded the z between the pos and neg wires aobut an inch from the end. I would then pull the push rod while pushing with long needle nose pliers. I almost had it when the tube came out.Comment
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When/if the coduit tube un-seats from the bulkhead, no sweat. Push it back in. Duh!
David,Who is John Galt?Comment
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Oh, someone was asking about how the swing-arm engaged the torque tube bell-crank. Magnets.
Who is John Galt?Comment
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Aha! It's multiple magnets. Was I supposed to get those in the kit, because I didn't. I went to Radio Shack last night and picked up two small magnets and I was going to epoxy them on either end of an aluminum tube the proper length. It looks like I'll need about a total length of about one inch.
Jay
Edit- The grease is the way to go on pulling the wire. The tube still came out but it was easy to get the wire where you wanted it, clean the grease off, and put the whole mess back together.Last edited by beeryboats; 12-22-2011, 07:29 PM.Comment
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Good progress tonight. Note to others: if drilling through the fore planes push rod supports that glue to the sub driver, turn the drill motor in reverse and bear down gently and grind your way through. I broke one just as the drill bit into the plastic.
JayComment
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Jay, my turn to learn from you. It really is looking good and coming along amazing. I will be working on this this weekend. Happy Hanukkah, Merry Christmas, and a wonderful New Year!
Hopefully, I will be given some of the electronics I need to finish or enough cash to call Mike up and put another order in!
Peace,
tomIf you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.Comment
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Here are a couple photos of my idea for the on/off switch. I still need to solder on the battery wires. I thought it made good use of the extra push rod seal in the kit! And no rubber boot to wear out. I'll have to solder the wires on sideways to clear the tube, and I may just leave the outside of the push rod cut off about two inches long. I guess you could put a wheel collar on the outside. I don't want to bend it in case I need to remove it and replace the switch.
Mike sent me two Lipo batteries with my sub driver. Do I need a wire harnes to use both at the same time, or are they for individual use?
JayComment
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