Gwen's Nautilus design as described by Jules Verne - Discussion- Everyone welcome.
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Updated Nautilus drawing. I added hull drain vents and an aft keel to better protect the rudder.
Nautilus-Gwen42.pdf
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Gwen,
Might I suggest tidying up the thread a bit by you creating a new topic for the Nautilus project? Once you get that started, I can move the posts here that deal with it so that everything stays together nice and neat...
BobComment
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I was thinking exactly the same thing Bob. I'll set up the new thread today.Comment
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DrSchmidt -
I agree mine looks completely like a brick, but...It looks like that for a good reason =P the roof of the wheelhouse retracts into the hull and has to seal all the way around when it does so. Also it needs to be 2 meters wide from front to back to allow room for all the controls and Nemo. If it is rounded at the front (which I totally prefer looks-wise) the controls would have to be moved back far enough that there would not be room inside for the captain and or crew. Also the portholes on the top and bottom of the wheelhouse need to align in order to see out the front when it is retracted. The model you built looks great though=) It might be possible for me to round the front of the deck to match the rounded leading edge of the roof as you drew it if I can cram everything in there as Verne described it though. I'll see what I can do. This stuff is why I included an interior layout as well. I'm trying to make it all work as Verne described if I can.
The ram point should be triangular in shape though when looking at it from the front. If you notice in my drawing the front of the deck (where the lower porthole goes) is cut out from the front to the leading edge of the wheelhouse top so the porthole can be inset behind the strake.​Comment
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Well the weather finally warmed up enough that I went outside and spent several hours stacking bricks to build a double-walled tank about 1.5 ft deep x 1.5 x 6 ft. Next I spent around an hour getting the boat trimmed for the surface. The first time I put it in the water it was within 1/4" of the waterline and just a tad high on the bow. After I finished the surface trim I powered it up and submerged it. She went down a little tail-heavy and wouldn't resurface. The bow came up but not the stern. So I pulled it out of the water and found that when the boat submerged the aft dive plane bushing had somehow pushed right out the back of the WTC and the engine compartment was completely flooded.
Needless to say I shut it down, disconnected the battery and pulled the WTC apart to let it dry out. Can anybody tell me if I should expect problems with the BLM,2IS, and AD2 boards, ESC, motor, and servos having all been submerged in water? Also what's the best way to make sure I have a nice tight seal on those bushings? I never had trouble with that before now. Hopefully I can resolve this with a minimum of issues.​Comment
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Gwen,
It sounds like you have done it all correct! Getting everything out of the cylinder to start drying out. When this happened to me i also used my airbrush compressor on LOW pressure to blow around the connections and all the nooks and crannies to help dry things out. Using a hair dryer will help to dry out the moisture that may have condensed on the inside of some of the electrical component's cases, then used electrical spray to help in cleaning up and dry the electrical circuits. This method has always worked for me, and I am not saying it is right or wrong! I know how (speaking from experience) disappointing a flooded WTC can be!
Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."Last edited by rwtdiver; 01-02-2023, 02:23 PM.Comment
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Well the weather finally warmed up enough that I went outside and spent several hours stacking bricks to build a double-walled tank about 1.5 ft deep x 1.5 x 6 ft. Next I spent around an hour getting the boat trimmed for the surface. The first time I put it in the water it was within 1/4" of the waterline and just a tad high on the bow. After I finished the surface trim I powered it up and submerged it. She went down a little tail-heavy and wouldn't resurface. The bow came up but not the stern. So I pulled it out of the water and found that when the boat submerged the aft dive plane bushing had somehow pushed right out the back of the WTC and the engine compartment was completely flooded.
Needless to say I shut it down, disconnected the battery and pulled the WTC apart to let it dry out. Can anybody tell me if I should expect problems with the BLM,2IS, and AD2 boards, ESC, motor, and servos having all been submerged in water? Also what's the best way to make sure I have a nice tight seal on those bushings? I never had trouble with that before now. Hopefully I can resolve this with a minimum of issues.â
Dunk again into the fresh water then blow down with medium-pressure air.
Place everything on a cookie sheet and bake at 150-degrees for 24 hours. It's vital that you place a non-conductive barrier between the PCB's and cookie sheet or you'll slick all the IC's. Do not bake the servo cases, gears, and the like or they'll melt!
Install fresh heat-shrink on the PCB's; reassemble the servos; remount the motor. Test for correct operation.
Fix the foundation of that seal body. And sin no more.
David
Last edited by He Who Shall Not Be Named; 01-01-2023, 09:54 PM.Who is John Galt?Comment
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