Scratch build Skipjack-conversion : Project 1710 Beluga in 1/63 scale

[trout]

I got my info from a single source, but they could have been wrong or materials are different. Either way, I would be thrilled with your test!

[JHapprich]

Still having issues with uploading pictures.

Buoy and docking ring:

[JHapprich]

Next step:

[JHapprich]

Next step:

[JHapprich]

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[JHapprich]

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[JHapprich]

Cannot post more than 1 photo at a time! Next step:

[RCSubGuy]

Very nice work, but for heaven's sake, sand and fill that sail fillet! That gorgeous hull is looking like a supermodel with a black eye! :P

[JHapprich]

Not done yet, Bob! Current to-do list:

- safety tracks, styrene rod or antenna cable. Another radio test will deal with this.
- trimming the still raw planes to final shape
- adjusting the stern cone to the prop hub's diameter
- modifying the raboesch prop cutting back the blades and hub. Make russian hub=counter nut from brass
- cutting out hull under the sail, laminate sail to hull, finalize sail and deck, sail railing
- hull filling
- filling tool marks from scribing and over-cutting of the floodholes
- linkages and wtc-cradle
- laminating of the brass details
-painting

Right now doing this:

Gluing down the docking ring and buoy, installing plane shafts ( one is loose !), install the rudder horns. Surplus parts from the MIKE.

[JHapprich]

stern cone from the inside. The step between "old" and "new" hull must be flattened. Will make a large grinding cone with some rough paper on it.

[JHapprich]

Happy New Year!

Didn't get that much done during Christmas Holidays plus cought quite a flew. Now that i'm fit again i was allowed to enter my shop again by my wife and filled up the model's stern to prepare the drive shaft installation.

First step was opening up the narrow transition point between the original stern and the new longer stern cone. I cut out several wooden discs to make a large and a small grinding drum. Cut a slot into those discs to hold the sanding piper strip that was then wrapped around. That drum was then srewed onto a threaded rod. Forward of the drum the old stern cone master was used to center the drum, another large disc acted as rearward bushing. Powered by an electric drill work was done quickly.



On with the stern tube.

initially i thought about casting a single large oilite into stern. Dropped that idea and will use a conventional stern tube instead.

I did not want to simply set the tube in place and cast resin into the stern as i did at the MIKE built because of the large volume that needed filling. Also wantey to enhance the strenght of the rather thin-walled stern. So i stacked up the discs on a 6mm aluminum tube, insulated against the resin with WD40. Inserted into the stern with the last disc using an o-ring and a pice of bycicle tube to form a seal against the inner hull i had the alu tube/ spacer dead center.



Poured in a small portion of resin, than formed a roll from a glassfibre strip and put that down around the aluminum tube, used small rods to condense the glass into the resin. More resin, glass, repeat. After curing i pulled the rod and the wooden spacers, having a rigid fibreglass stern with a clean 6mm bore to accept the actual stern tube.



Some more work wos perfermed on the upper hull, most notably cutting out the hull under the conning tower and glassing its edge onto the hull.



Also did more testing with the radio to determine how to install the antenna. Put the wtc inside the hull, attached upper hull and put the boat in one corner of the garden. Left my phone with the model do film what would happen. Went to the diagonal edge of the garden around 80metres away with our house, trees etc in between and i had signal with the antenna inside the hull.

Video showed some glitches with the radio's antenna all-in.
Just to make sure i decided to install the antenna on the outside.
So the antenna was split, employing a stud from 2mm banana gold plugs glued into the endcap of the wtc. Old antenna opening reused for testing of the seals and air venting. Also made a change to the drive gear the needed installation of a new pinion and main gear as well as lowering the engine a bit into the stern bulkhead.

[JHapprich]

The taper of the stern needed some final adjustment.
I made a crude screeding tool. Last picture shows how the stern tube with shaft and prop will slide into the stern.

[JHapprich]

Test fitting of prop and planes. Stern tube is in, not yet permanently fixed. Transition between stern and prop needs further grinding.



The hull offers a lot of internal space!

[JHapprich]

Some minor filling....



While i left the upper hull to cure, parts for making a new hub for the Raboesch Scimitar Prop arrived. I found a much cheaper and prefabricated alternative to a solid brass bar: lamp-making accessories!





Again, i used my proxon with crosstable to remove the original tip from the propeller's hub. Left hand turning the table's spindle, right hand spinning the threaded rod with the prop on. One clean cut!



Same treatment for the new nut that will be countered against the prop to secure it on the shaft.



Test-fitted in the boat. Not too bad! Will make those vortex thingies from brass and solder them in slots to the hub, next.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Some very creative stuff going on there with your use of the lathe fixtures and high-speed rotary cutter. Neat! I'll file that away for future consideration, sir.

David