I don't have to tell you, Scott, and the precious few other accomplished model-builders that haunt this forum, that its the basic things -- like a stable, flat working surface -- that contributes to a straight, true, symmetrical subject. So few who examine the finished product appreciate the 101 'little things' that have to be done in order to achieve a high quality display such as your VICTOR-3, Bart.
David
Victor III
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As my surface table that I had constructed for the AKULA turned out to small I had to fabricate a new surface surface/table that would fit the V3 hull’s.
All sections (4pc) of the lower hull were glued together. The small aft section needed some TLC, EUREKA putty was applied to level up the piece with the other sections.
The mating surface of the lower hull was then sanded completely flat on the surface table.
It took me quite some time to purchase the grinding paper you see on the surface table, yeah it is one piece.
The seams of the different sections were dressed up with the same putty and sanded down.
The lower hull is ready to take her first coat of primer.
Tomorrow the upper hull will take the same treatment.
Grtz,
Bart
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Very good work employing that plug to render the desired form to the filler. Now, take that suppository and stick it somewhere.
(ducking for cover)
DavidLeave a comment:
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Scoop Recess:
Before gluing the hull pieces together I had to make the recess for the inlet scoops in the hull.
Hull pars were taped together.
Recess was roughly milled out with a proxxon hand grinder.
To mark the high spots of the recess the scoop was colored with a pencil and nested in the recess, a rolling motion was carried out, the high spots showed off clearly as black dots and can be grinded off. The process was repeated several times until the scoop was nested deep enough in the recess.
Hull parts were then clued together.
Release agent was applied on the scoops, EUREKA putty was applied (polyester finishing filler) in the recess and the scoop was pressed in, excess filler was squeezed out and scraped away. When the filler started to harden out the scoop was gently removed from the recess, the result is a recess that is a perfect footprint of the scoop.
Grtz,
Bart
Last edited by bwi 971; 12-27-2018, 12:49 PM.Leave a comment:
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I think he probably will calm down in a month or so LOL
Grtz,
Bart
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"Tolerance". Now there's a word I don't hear around these parts very often - especially when the boys start talking about 3D PRINTING! (Crash of thunder as the Great Oz awakens).Leave a comment:
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That's true, but a machine capable of rendering something to within around 0.3% displays greater than non-existing accuracy. Even the most expensive machines will exhibit a tolerance.Leave a comment:
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No we are not...but this is the way I like to work.....not judging on others who do it differently.
Grtz,
BartLeave a comment:
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0.6mm out on a 199mm print. Not how I'd describe non-existent accuracy. If I was hand working, or even machining out a pattern i'd be more than happy with that. We're not building stuff to go to Mars.Leave a comment:
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It was not a surprise for me, I read a lot of stuff before I bought a Chinese lottery ticket, in the end I was mentally prepared to accept it.
Most people use to print game figures so they don’t even notice it.
It’s incremental with the size, for example the sail in length is 0.6mm off (199.6 instead of 199mm). and it’s dimensional. If you have a curved slot like I have, you have to adapt the whole perimeter of the sail to get it in the slot. Nothing that some sanding can't fix, but its not plug and play.
The SOKS are small so the dimensional inaccuracy is neglectable, hell the dimensions are a raw guess anyway.
In the slicer the dimensional accuracy is spot one, I was informed the it is also depending on the resin, each batch hat his own sweet spot, exposure time has to be spot on, etc…..
One could play with the percentage in the slicer but most of your parts need to be angled for printing, so it’s not so evident to do, you need at least a few test prints to get it right. And large prints like that are demanding on the FEP film, so you don’t. Further you have to do it by try and error on every new part that you are going to print.
You can of course work around it in the design phase, and design the stuff that you like to print in a way that it’s not dimensional critical, that is the easy fix imo.
Grtz,
Bart
Last edited by bwi 971; 12-09-2018, 07:28 PM.Leave a comment:
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'the dimensional accuracy is non-existing'
That's surprising, how far out are we talking about here? Tinkered a bit with an FDM unit, and the accuracy is excellent, and it's a very cheap model. I'd have expected the accuracy of DLP to be greater, only one axis to move, and a light bounced off of the chip to render the layer. Are the optics the limitation in these cheaper units.Leave a comment:
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When I work with it I wear so much PPE that you will think that I work at a toxic waste dump or something.
Bud .....when everting lines up and works out….those things give you amazing details.
It's all about what you get for the money you spent, don't expect dimensional accuracy and long lifetime with these low budget printers. If you want all that you have to spent 4k.
I didn’t so I’m not complaining, I knew what I was getting into, just want to share my experience regarding what you will get for your money and what to look out for.
Grtz,
Bart
Last edited by bwi 971; 12-09-2018, 05:10 PM.Leave a comment:
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