Been awhile since your most recent update and I eagerly await your next one.
SSBN659
Will Rogers
Victor III
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The fwd grating on the sail was integrated in the print but it didn’t turn out as I wanted. Before making the mould I had to address that.
New part.
Traced the contours of the new part on the sail, contour was cut out and grinded to take the new part.
New part was glued in place with CA, applied baking soda to fill up the gaps, air dried putty was used to fill up the small imperfections.
Grtz,
Bart
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I could completely retool the back end of the 667 to keep up with Bart, but can anybody? I don't know if I have the energy.....
DaveLeave a comment:
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Needed to free some space on my workbench, so I decided to tackle the tools for the stern.
It will be a 3 piece tool.
First, I casted the inner core of the stern in RTV silicon rubber, this tool will be used to make the stern hollow. You can see that the index ring, for paring the stern to the hull, is integrated in this tool.
Next up was the tool of the stern master, various cores are inserted, used for: prop shaft bearings, rudder stock’s and alinement pins to align the rudders and planes with the root’s that are integrated in the stern.
It took me a while to get everything properly aligned, you can see the small bushings on the brass rods that I had to order to make it happen.
How it fits together.
Next up will be tool of the other side of the master and then the casting of the stern in resin.
grtz,
Bart
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I see. PLA is quite brittle too, so I tend to trim the supports away with a scalpel, cutters etc. and then clean back any remains with small files, sanding strips etc.Leave a comment:
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Okay understood. Only printed out one prop on my fdm machine, and I was pretty pleased with the way it came out. As you iterated it needed a lot of supports, but they trimmed away easily, and the prop needed a light sand anyway to remove the lines you get with fdm printing. No experience with resin printing, are the supports a bit more tricky to remove?
Also, with resin printing if you print a bore that is placed under an angle, you are not ending up with a cylindrical shaped hole, it will be deformed at the top. But once you figured all that out the hard way, it is very enjoyable (except the post-processing, that is a real mess).
Grtz,
BartLeave a comment:
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Okay understood. Only printed out one prop on my fdm machine, and I was pretty pleased with the way it came out. As you iterated it needed a lot of supports, but they trimmed away easily, and the prop needed a light sand anyway to remove the lines you get with fdm printing. No experience with resin printing, are the supports a bit more tricky to remove?Leave a comment:
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It will take a lot of supports if I want to print the prop in one piece.....and I hate supports, adding them and removing them.
By printing them separately I have more opportunities to angle the part in a way that I need the minimum on supports and preferable I want to place them on a flat surface which is easy to grind, sand, file or machine.
For me, it is more convenience to assemble the prop then to remove supports.
Grtz,
Bart
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Why are the props printed with separate blades and boss rather than in one piece?Leave a comment:
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Propellers and sail.
Seems that I’m completely into propellers this week.
Made a set for a 1/72 Gato for a member of the “pond staring community” and I made a high skewed 7 bladed prop for the V3.
The sub number I'm making has a tandem prop, but there are other sub numbers that have a high skewed one, now we can chose.
It took along time to get high skewed right, but I finally managed to tame the beast. Not all went right the first time. When I widened the hole for the propeller shaft to 3mm on the drill press. Afterwards I noted the bore was slightly out of center, bad news.
I rectified it on the lathe by first using a centre drill and then oversizing the bore of the hub to 4mm. Bushings are a mechanic best friend. Made a 4mm bushing with an inner bore of 3mm that fits perfect in the bore of the hub, problem solved.
Bushing in the making
Cleaning the faces of the hub
Primer sanded off
And ready she is
The sail, I was quite ****ed about the fact that after I applied the primer on the sail the details of the gratings / louvres were fainted. I expected some loss of detail but this was too much, I wanted those details to POP OUT.
I needed to remove the paint, after some test I found a thinner that didn’t dissolve the masking tape and still dissolved the paint itself. I used cotton sticks to apply the thinner, these are my go to for applying paint, CA….I also use them as absorbers for excess glue and other stuff. Then I used the same to clean of the paint on top of the gratings/louvres. To remove the paint inside all those small recesses I used a toothbrush, I also have a collection of them fellows, always come in handy. Now all those details are back, and I’m happy.
Before, gratings/louvres partly filled with primer
Masking tape applied, tools used.
All done
Grtz,
Bart
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