1:12 Scale 34 FT Regulator Center Console Offshore Sport fisherman

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  • Bob Gato
    replied
    Originally posted by Ken_NJ
    Bob, just gorgeous! Dash looks great. All those working hatches, nice. Well thought out interior.
    Thanks Ken, although seeing your "The Big Marie S " build makes me consider building a wood boat next!


    Here's a picture that I hadn't posted on NDF - "1:1 vs 1:12"

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    Last edited by Bob Gato; 03-08-2024, 04:34 PM.

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  • Ken_NJ
    replied
    Bob, just gorgeous! Dash looks great. All those working hatches, nice. Well thought out interior.

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  • Bob Gato
    replied
    The boat is now finished off with a name...


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  • Bob Gato
    replied
    Here's what makes it go...

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  • Bob Gato
    replied
    This Build is soon coming to a close and many people have asked as to how its coming. I did a quick video to show off fit and finish and also the many operational items on board- Take note of the working NAV screens just past the middle of the video-BG

    Last edited by Bob Gato; 01-28-2024, 09:38 AM.

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  • Bob Gato
    replied
    Thanks Rob and Happy new year to you and fam...

    Graphic Update:
    Photo copied cut and paste master to make waterslide decals
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    Printed decal sheet ready to use (cost to print two at office supply store :$1.51 US!)

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    Mockup decal lay out for upholstery

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    Last edited by Bob Gato; 01-09-2024, 04:02 PM.

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  • rwtdiver
    replied
    Originally posted by Bob Gato
    Update:
    I went with a tuna tower. It easily and completely removable with the aid of rare earth magnets (alien technology) and operational outriggers...
    Nest step:
    Graphics-I'm trying to gain courage...the placement of decals and vinyl graphics always makes me nervous.


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    Exceptional build Bob!

    Going over your build I sure see some really fine building techniques, and a special attention QUALITY craftsmanship. One to be very proud of for sure!

    Rob
    "Firemen can stand the heat."

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  • Bob Gato
    replied
    Update:
    I went with a tuna tower. It easily and completely removable with the aid of rare earth magnets (alien technology) and operational outriggers...
    Nest step:
    Graphics-I'm trying to gain courage...the placement of decals and vinyl graphics always makes me nervous.


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    Last edited by Bob Gato; 01-08-2024, 04:49 PM.

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    The holy Trinity of Fixtures, Jigs, and lay-out on display here. Thanks, Bob.

    David

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  • Bob Gato
    replied
    This is how they work-

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    The steering is handled via a Sullivan plastic cable (picture shows a mockup not the real cable) attached to the center "dummy" dummy motor in the wet that transitions above the waterline before reaching the servo (that keeps the bilge dry) This motor then imparts the steering angle to the other two drive dummy motors...The shaft /stuffing tube exits the hull and drives the prop shaft in the lower unit-(note: the universal knuckle must be in alignment with the steering king pin or things will bind in turns)

    The blue tape on the transom decking is to keep the self draining fishwell hatches closed during construction -Self draining BC I don't want to be sponging out the water after a run to the Hudson Canyon ...LOL.

    I will also be making my own Yahama F300 decals but farming out the Regulator Logos-

    Yes pretty much these Motors were scratch built-BG
    Last edited by Bob Gato; 10-10-2023, 12:02 PM.

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  • Bob Gato
    replied
    It was asked if the motors were kits or scratch built-I guess they were kit bashed/scratch built...

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    I found these Z-drives made by Krick for $19 at Harbor Models and instantly, my brain went into repurpose mode. I have never seen anyone else do this but it seemed so simple! insert them into an outboard motor housing. Triple scale outboards would be too heavy to hang off the transom of any model boat-so I went for a shaft driven lower unit with standard inboard motor placement-Perfect!

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    I fabricated masters and molded the motor case from fiberglass, reinforced it with machined Azek and so they don't fill with water during operation, they were filled with foam -which also alleviated my fear of loosing one or more off the transom bracket because now they are very buoyant. I have modified the steering bracket in order to bring the motor to the proper heights but this now necessitates a third bearing point which I incorporated into the lower engine cowl . I did not use the supplied spin on oversized props-I prefer a shearpin like dog pins and cleaver style props so I drilled the stub shafts and added pins. No worries now about spinning the prop off with hard reverse application-The Krick drives did not have any type of cavitation/antiventillation plate-but that was an easy fix.

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    Last edited by Bob Gato; 10-10-2023, 11:58 AM.

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  • Bob Gato
    replied
    Motor bracket/swim platform is installed-the interior(held in place by magnets) is for the most part done...paint is compounded and waxed...mostly little stuff to complete: vacuum form windshield, starboard side port light to be made, final shaft lube and connection of in water universals...
    ...Then on to the Tee Top, radar, support tubes, rocket launchers and running lights

    Rob I will do a post on making the motors-gotta run, please sit tight.-BG​

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  • rwtdiver
    replied
    Originally posted by Bob Gato
    ​Here's a few more proof of progress pictures...

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    I love those motors Bob!

    Are they a kit or, are you scratch building them?

    Rob
    "Firemen can stand the heat."

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  • Bob Gato
    replied
    ​Here's a few more proof of progress pictures...

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  • Bob Gato
    replied
    A sport fisherman without cup holders is all but useless and one without fish pole holders is almost as useless! Luckily Regulator has solved that problem... they use a combo cup holder that transitions to an angled rod holder the deeper you go inside...both scenarios covered! also they don't have any hardware on the top flange to trap dirt , water or fish blood. Brilliant!

    Making this very easy for me-The craft store has chrome plated aluminum grommets in the appropriate scale size - one draw back for me is that the under gunnel deck lighting will show up thru the cup/rod holders. I solved that problem by smearing some epoxy on parchment paper and sitting the grommet into it-thus forming a thin skin of epoxy across the bottom, allowing me to paint the inside of it with black paint (semi gloss) blocking the light and adding a feeling of depth. I did selectively leave the ones where light does not escape open at the bottom so I can have rods in them.

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ID:	174296 a CC SF of this size has a lot of rod and cup holders-this one has 22 around the deck alone-not to mention the cup holders at each seat in the arm rests , at the helm, along side the lounges, next to the rocket launchers ...

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    ...Yes next to the rocket launchers- the rod starts singing and its fish on-what do you do with your beer-well thought out -there's a cup holder right next to the rod that you are grabbing-Brilliant!


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ID:	174298Combo Cup/Rod holder (not Regulator but similar)
    ​​


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