1:12 Scale 34 FT Regulator Center Console Offshore Sport fisherman

[Bob Gato]

Looks great Bob. Like I said before, I can't wait to see what you have next for us.

You Know "D"- I was thinking of doing a simple boat like a Glastron G3 with an Evinrude 75... . In 1/12 it would be only 14" and since I've got this simple outboard thing down it might be fun and still afford the time to take care of the honey do list!!

[ffr2608]

Looks great Bob. Like I said before, I can't wait to see what you have next for us.

[Bob Gato]

This is probably as good as it gets- the end of a work in progress...

[Bob Gato]

Fine tuning the motors and props- closer to or at a scale 60kts!

https://youtu.be/wvjlhb84GVs?si=2CZ4YYT5iR8j9NOH

[Bob Gato]

Bob, just gorgeous! Dash looks great. All those working hatches, nice. Well thought out interior.

Thanks Ken, although seeing your "The Big Marie S " build makes me consider building a wood boat next!


Here's a picture that I hadn't posted on NDF - "1:1 vs 1:12"

[Ken_NJ]

Bob, just gorgeous! Dash looks great. All those working hatches, nice. Well thought out interior.

[Bob Gato]

The boat is now finished off with a name...

[Bob Gato]

Here's what makes it go...

[Bob Gato]

This Build is soon coming to a close and many people have asked as to how its coming. I did a quick video to show off fit and finish and also the many operational items on board- Take note of the working NAV screens just past the middle of the video-BG

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XfODp3D__aU

[Bob Gato]

Thanks Rob and Happy new year to you and fam...

Graphic Update:
Photo copied cut and paste master to make waterslide decals




Printed decal sheet ready to use (cost to print two at office supply store :$1.51 US!)




Mockup decal lay out for upholstery

[rwtdiver]

Update:
I went with a tuna tower. It easily and completely removable with the aid of rare earth magnets (alien technology) and operational outriggers...
Nest step:
Graphics-I'm trying to gain courage...the placement of decals and vinyl graphics always makes me nervous.

Exceptional build Bob!

Going over your build I sure see some really fine building techniques, and a special attention QUALITY craftsmanship. One to be very proud of for sure!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[Bob Gato]

Update:
I went with a tuna tower. It easily and completely removable with the aid of rare earth magnets (alien technology) and operational outriggers...
Nest step:
Graphics-I'm trying to gain courage...the placement of decals and vinyl graphics always makes me nervous.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

The holy Trinity of Fixtures, Jigs, and lay-out on display here. Thanks, Bob.

David

[Bob Gato]

This is how they work-



The steering is handled via a Sullivan plastic cable (picture shows a mockup not the real cable) attached to the center "dummy" dummy motor in the wet that transitions above the waterline before reaching the servo (that keeps the bilge dry) This motor then imparts the steering angle to the other two drive dummy motors...The shaft /stuffing tube exits the hull and drives the prop shaft in the lower unit-(note: the universal knuckle must be in alignment with the steering king pin or things will bind in turns)

The blue tape on the transom decking is to keep the self draining fishwell hatches closed during construction -Self draining BC I don't want to be sponging out the water after a run to the Hudson Canyon ...LOL.

I will also be making my own Yahama F300 decals but farming out the Regulator Logos-

Yes pretty much these Motors were scratch built-BG

[Bob Gato]

It was asked if the motors were kits or scratch built-I guess they were kit bashed/scratch built...


I found these Z-drives made by Krick for $19 at Harbor Models and instantly, my brain went into repurpose mode. I have never seen anyone else do this but it seemed so simple! insert them into an outboard motor housing. Triple scale outboards would be too heavy to hang off the transom of any model boat-so I went for a shaft driven lower unit with standard inboard motor placement-Perfect!





I fabricated masters and molded the motor case from fiberglass, reinforced it with machined Azek and so they don't fill with water during operation, they were filled with foam -which also alleviated my fear of loosing one or more off the transom bracket because now they are very buoyant. I have modified the steering bracket in order to bring the motor to the proper heights but this now necessitates a third bearing point which I incorporated into the lower engine cowl . I did not use the supplied spin on oversized props-I prefer a shearpin like dog pins and cleaver style props so I drilled the stub shafts and added pins. No worries now about spinning the prop off with hard reverse application-The Krick drives did not have any type of cavitation/antiventillation plate-but that was an easy fix.