1:12 Scale 34 FT Regulator Center Console Offshore Sport fisherman

[Bob Gato]

I started collecting documentation and drawing up the plans in 2019...She is built of fiberglass and Aspen plywood. Her power plants are to resemble three Yamaha F300 and are my own design utilizing modifies Krick Z-drives...shaft driven by two brushless motors. The center outboard is a dummy and initiates the steering via a Sullivan plastic cable ( connected below the waterline) then it imparts steering to the remaining port and starboard motors. I have floated the boat and tested the propulsion -the complete build can be found :

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?3486441-2019-34-FT-Regulator-C-C-in-1-12-scale

Here is the Reader's Digest Condensed Version of the build from start to 7/8 finished in 1000 word increments. Regards-BG

[rwtdiver]

Bob,

What a fantastic build! Great photos of the sequence as you progressed. I am looking forward to going into your RC Groups build blog.

Thank you for posting this up.

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[Bob Gato]

Thanks Rob, I couldn't get the YouTube links to work in the same post as the RCG link-I'll give it a try here...
It appears that you get to post one video per thread post.

A walk around to all moving doors ,fishwells with drains, and anchor locker-not shown operating are sole hatches in deck, starboard side tackle locker and fridge, fold-a-way transom seat, FWD table that drops down from picnic height to cast net/fish fighting platform height and adjustable backrest on port side lounge.

https://youtu.be/aZzQM-x_P9Q?si=KS6I1uSvnUTbT2zy

[Bob Gato]

Fabricating the swim/fish side door...

https://youtu.be/Xk8nfEscm80?si=DISTz3ysM7Q5Veny

[Bob Gato]

Bath Tub Motor and thrust check:

https://youtu.be/YChruGjdtjU?si=spofmBYaFXCrptpg

Note real teak deck on motor bracket/swim platform

[Bob Gato]

This Will Work for Shaft Driven Twin Engine Subs Also - Aligning The Motors

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A trick I use is to extend the line of thrust as far out as you can or need ...it is much easier to determine centerline and parallel with pointers out to 18" than looking at the prop nut with one eye...this works on any boat with a propeller(s).

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[Bob Gato]

A sport fisherman without cup holders is all but useless and one without fish pole holders is almost as useless! Luckily Regulator has solved that problem... they use a combo cup holder that transitions to an angled rod holder the deeper you go inside...both scenarios covered! also they don't have any hardware on the top flange to trap dirt , water or fish blood. Brilliant!

Making this very easy for me-The craft store has chrome plated aluminum grommets in the appropriate scale size - one draw back for me is that the under gunnel deck lighting will show up thru the cup/rod holders. I solved that problem by smearing some epoxy on parchment paper and sitting the grommet into it-thus forming a thin skin of epoxy across the bottom, allowing me to paint the inside of it with black paint (semi gloss) blocking the light and adding a feeling of depth. I did selectively leave the ones where light does not escape open at the bottom so I can have rods in them.

a CC SF of this size has a lot of rod and cup holders-this one has 22 around the deck alone-not to mention the cup holders at each seat in the arm rests , at the helm, along side the lounges, next to the rocket launchers ...



...Yes next to the rocket launchers- the rod starts singing and its fish on-what do you do with your beer-well thought out -there's a cup holder right next to the rod that you are grabbing-Brilliant!


Combo Cup/Rod holder (not Regulator but similar)

[Bob Gato]

Here's a few more proof of progress pictures...

[rwtdiver]

Here's a few more proof of progress pictures...

I love those motors Bob!

Are they a kit or, are you scratch building them?

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[Bob Gato]

Motor bracket/swim platform is installed-the interior(held in place by magnets) is for the most part done...paint is compounded and waxed...mostly little stuff to complete: vacuum form windshield, starboard side port light to be made, final shaft lube and connection of in water universals...
...Then on to the Tee Top, radar, support tubes, rocket launchers and running lights

Rob I will do a post on making the motors-gotta run, please sit tight.-BG

[Bob Gato]

It was asked if the motors were kits or scratch built-I guess they were kit bashed/scratch built...


I found these Z-drives made by Krick for $19 at Harbor Models and instantly, my brain went into repurpose mode. I have never seen anyone else do this but it seemed so simple! insert them into an outboard motor housing. Triple scale outboards would be too heavy to hang off the transom of any model boat-so I went for a shaft driven lower unit with standard inboard motor placement-Perfect!





I fabricated masters and molded the motor case from fiberglass, reinforced it with machined Azek and so they don't fill with water during operation, they were filled with foam -which also alleviated my fear of loosing one or more off the transom bracket because now they are very buoyant. I have modified the steering bracket in order to bring the motor to the proper heights but this now necessitates a third bearing point which I incorporated into the lower engine cowl . I did not use the supplied spin on oversized props-I prefer a shearpin like dog pins and cleaver style props so I drilled the stub shafts and added pins. No worries now about spinning the prop off with hard reverse application-The Krick drives did not have any type of cavitation/antiventillation plate-but that was an easy fix.

[Bob Gato]

This is how they work-



The steering is handled via a Sullivan plastic cable (picture shows a mockup not the real cable) attached to the center "dummy" dummy motor in the wet that transitions above the waterline before reaching the servo (that keeps the bilge dry) This motor then imparts the steering angle to the other two drive dummy motors...The shaft /stuffing tube exits the hull and drives the prop shaft in the lower unit-(note: the universal knuckle must be in alignment with the steering king pin or things will bind in turns)

The blue tape on the transom decking is to keep the self draining fishwell hatches closed during construction -Self draining BC I don't want to be sponging out the water after a run to the Hudson Canyon ...LOL.

I will also be making my own Yahama F300 decals but farming out the Regulator Logos-

Yes pretty much these Motors were scratch built-BG

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

The holy Trinity of Fixtures, Jigs, and lay-out on display here. Thanks, Bob.

David

[Bob Gato]

Update:
I went with a tuna tower. It easily and completely removable with the aid of rare earth magnets (alien technology) and operational outriggers...
Nest step:
Graphics-I'm trying to gain courage...the placement of decals and vinyl graphics always makes me nervous.

[rwtdiver]

Update:
I went with a tuna tower. It easily and completely removable with the aid of rare earth magnets (alien technology) and operational outriggers...
Nest step:
Graphics-I'm trying to gain courage...the placement of decals and vinyl graphics always makes me nervous.

Exceptional build Bob!

Going over your build I sure see some really fine building techniques, and a special attention QUALITY craftsmanship. One to be very proud of for sure!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."