Well said David. From my research, some of these boats had only four floud holes in the bow, some six and others eight. Many where an mirror image and some were not. It just comes down to which boat your going to build. And most or all, just have fun with it!
By the way David, love your boat, she's a beauty, eh!:wink:
Cheers!
Murray
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I'm assembling this kit as a vanilla flavored unit; no specific boat is being represented here -- I'm doing a generic Type-23. Good enough to blow my skirt up, Sam
Are you sure there were no units of this class that had symmetrically arrayed limber holes, Sam?
Unless I'm doing a commission where the client wants to do a specific boat I don't let myself get bogged down in such petty-any stuff. Who cares!
Detail freaks typically can't get their butts away from the reference books and Goggle-search sessions; they are strangers to the shop. Those guys -- with chests puffed out -- will spend all their time arguing amongst themselves over details few give a ****-about; details that have no bearing on the overall presentation or operation of the r/c model submarine. These all-show-no-go-types embrace stagnation as a group, and tend to be insufferable bores, more interested in club rules and maintenance of decorum than the Craft they pretend to practice. Example? See: SubCommittee.
Real Model-Builders, and Masters like me, tend to be a bit pragmatic with the production build/assembly jobs. The result is that we who don't loose sleep over limber hole locations/numbers/battle-bars/size tend to get more models into the water than the arm-chair Admirals who sweat how many angels they can get to dance on the head of a ****ing pin!
DavidLeave a comment:
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David-
If I recall correctly (don't have the references in front of me) the flood holes you repaired in the bow of the boat are actually offset from one another from one side to the other. In other words, on the port side, the first free flood hole is between the two on the starboard side (or vice versa). Bronco got it wrong on the model. I'm relatively certain they shouldn't mirror their location from port side to starboard side.
On my OTW XXIII, I had to drill a few small spaced holes under the wooden decking forward of the conning tower to let out the trapped air bubbles, too.
The model looks great. I can't wait to see how it performs for you in the water.
-SamLeave a comment:
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Time had come to open some flood-drain holes in the bottom of the keel. I have no authority -- document wise -- but the few holes in the bottom of the hull built into the kit are not enough. That fact brought home during todays initial trim trials. So, I broke out an old scribing stencil and worked out those hole locations and opened them up. I employed scribing during the hole layout process. I never throw a stencil away!
The upper four limber holes near the upper bow are deformed owing to the tools inability to fill completely in those areas. High draft angle. I fixed these by building up the upper edges of the limber holes with a baking soda-CA adhesive filler and then working that mess back with tools until I had achieved the correct limber hole size and shape.
And I'm starting out with about twenty-ounces of fixed lead ballast. I'll trim the beast out tomorrow morning.
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Sam,
First, I complete the fittings kit and SD for this kit, then move on to backed up chores -- things I promised some of the guys, take care of some outstanding PO's, and work to update the Caswell catalog (a never ending chore, but vital to sales). 1/35 torpedo system is way off in the distance me thinks.
DavidLeave a comment:
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I've always loved the XXIII. Single screw, offspring of the mighty XXI, easy to build, but it still has some of the cool details (railings, snorkel, UZO, etc.) that add spark to the model. Also, only 2 tubes to worry about if you want to do torpedoes, just like the real boat. I always thought that giant conning tower had ample space if you wanted to do a camera as well. I may still buy another one of these kits just to be able to create a static model... As much as the 32nd Parallel from Simon and Sheila was popular, having this in styrene beats the hell out of trying to add all the details on that ABS hull.
Great stuff on the latest photos, David. Are you going to start work on the torpedo system right away for the model as well, or is the first order of business just to get the fittings and ballast system done?
-SamLeave a comment:
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David,That strap/tie down is brilliant. Both in the way you added the hook and loop strap as well as incorporate the alignment pin. Really well done. This set up looks easy and might be the one to recommend to a beginner, what do you think? Would this be a good suggestion? or wait until trim is done?Peace,TomLeave a comment:
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awesome progress, David. looking forward to seeing it all put together. that looks like plenty of throw for the rudder.Leave a comment:
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Sure you can. But no need to cut out the access I have here -- I did it for illustration purposes.
The production bell-crank will be fished into the rudder support arm and made up to the rudder operating shaft which is slide up, through the rudder, from the bottom. No need for an access hatch on the side of the rudder support arm. KISS.
Finish your KILO, damit!Leave a comment:
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David,
Could one access the rudder control horn by cutting through the kit's inherent panel line located on top of the rudder support instead of cutting the side?Leave a comment:
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