Bronco Type XXIII in 1/35th scale

[goshawk823]

Won't you get a shot of paint and propellant in the face when you do that?

What's the olive branch thing in the upper right in the fittings kit photo?

Alignment tabs for upper and lower hull David?
eh.. just saw you posted...

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Won't you get a shot of paint and propellant in the face when you do that?

What's the olive branch thing in the upper right in the fittings kit photo?

(Ellie just found this thread ... she was not amused!)

Those are indexing tabs mounted to the inside of the upper and lower hull halves -- they work to pull the two structures into alignment when assembled.

[redboat219]

Won't you get a shot of paint and propellant in the face when you do that?

What's the olive branch thing in the upper right in the fittings kit photo?

[goshawk823]

Smart-ass!

No. But, here's a still:

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lol. poor Ellie.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Can I get a video of you decanting the paint Krylon rattle-can?

Smart-ass!

No. But, here's a still:

[trout]

Can I get a video of you decanting the paint Krylon rattle-can?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Over the weekend I laid down the black base-coat. Nothing reveals open seams, sanding and file scratches and other imperfections better than black! And I want all the corners, edges and tough-to-get-at stuff black so that when I lay down the colors I won't have to deal with light areas where I fail to get complete opacity.

The black check-coat was covered with a heavy clear-coat and sanded down after it dried. And what a chore that is, having to cut around all those weld and screw heads. To make the sanding task a bit easier and precise, I punched out these little #600 grit sanding discs from double-sided sandpaper with brass punches.

All in preparation for the two basic 'colors'. Dark gray below waterline and a lighter gray above waterline, with a black boot-topping serving as the demarcation band between the two grays.



To show you guys how to paint on the cheap, I employed Krylon rattle-can paints for this project. Most of the spraying has to be done with a proper air-brush, not out of the damned can ... shooting paint on a model from box-store rattle can is like hunting mice with a nuke!

To decant, you shake the can, punch a hole to vent off the propellant, and transfer the paint to a holding-jar. This is something best done outside, very carefully, and by the Wife.



And here's the shot we'll use in the catalog and packing-list. It defines all you get in a 1/35 Type-23 fittings kit.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

And helpful you have been. I'll check into that supplier. 3/16" would do the trick. Thank you.

David

[Warpatroller]

Yes, I meant 1/8". Good catch, Steve.

I use the set-screw on the propeller as I use a Dumas style universal coupler on the forward end of the propeller shaft. I have to first run the shaft through the stern tube from the inside with the coupler already made up. Could not do that if I screwed the propeller down first.

I've played with different propeller-coupler-shaft arrangements. This current one suits me and my machiness.

Started painting the Beast today -- stay tuned for pictures later.

David

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If you meant 1/8" is too short, 1/4" is too long, then wouldn't you need 3/16", not 3/32" length set screws? If so, the supplier I linked to does indeed carry 4-40 3/16" set screws. I am not trying to be a PIA, just attempting to help.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Yes, I meant 1/8". Good catch, Steve.

I use the set-screw on the propeller as I use a Dumas style universal coupler on the forward end of the propeller shaft. I have to first run the shaft through the stern tube from the inside with the coupler already made up. Could not do that if I screwed the propeller down first.

I've played with different propeller-coupler-shaft arrangements. This current one suits me and my machiness.

Started painting the Beast today -- stay tuned for pictures later.

David

[Warpatroller]

I gotta find a 4-40 X 3/32" long set-screw source! 1/3" is too short, and 1/4" is too long. Damn!

Your call on the snorkel.

David

You say you need 4-40 x 3/32". I have seen 4-40 x 1/8" set screws online, $5.37 for 100 screws, at the supplier in Texas below. They don't have 3/32" in 4-40, at least not listed on their site.

http://www.fmwfasteners.com/products/Socket-Set-Screws-Cup-Point-Alloy?custcol_dia_inch_soc_set_screw=8&custcol_len_inch_soc_set_screw=13&gclid=CPWM5OKSj7cCFadxQgodlmwA4A#.UY7MRYLeYeg

1/3" is too short, and 1/4" is too long? That makes no sense.. Must be a typing mistake..

Why use a set screw at all on the prop? Why not a threaded prop shaft and threaded propeller, like my 32P kit came with? You are already having to tap the side of the hub, for the set screw, why not tap the shaft end of the hub instead?

I am assuming doing that might make your manufacturing process for the propellers more difficult.. You must have had a reason for going with a set screw.

I have no experience with set screws on sub propellers, but I do find them annoying on my RC tank.

My Tamiya 1/16 Tiger tank, has axle drive shafts that are secured to the gearbox output shafts via set screws. I have found that after running the tank for a while, the set screws ALWAYS loosen and start backing off, causing the axle shafts to wobble a bit. They are not easily accessible without partially disassembling the tank. Actually, as I recall, I have to remove the gearboxes from the hull entirely, to crank them back down. Some guys put glue or thread lock on the set screws. I guess that is the only way to keep the damn things in place. Then maybe they become set in place permanently, which would be a problem for maintenance if you ever want to remove them. Maybe I should quit *****ing about it and just put thread lock on them..

By the way, in general, those Tamiya tanks are like babies and need constant attention.. At least I've found the Tiger to be that way. Apparently the real Tigers were not much different in that regard.

Steve

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Will the propeller set screw remain raised some above the hub surface like seen in your first photo? Or has it just not been screwed all the way down. I would think it should sit almost flush with the surface of the hub.

Looks like you have chosen to mount the schnorkel, fixed, in the lowered position. I'd like to have mine raised, so I can use the schnorkel shaft to visually track the boat in my lakes out here (with their somewhat poor water visibility), while it is running submerged.

I gotta find a 4-40 X 3/32" long set-screw source! 1/8" is too short, and 1/4" is too long. Damn!

Your call on the snorkel.

David

[Warpatroller]

Will the propeller set screw remain raised some above the hub surface like seen in your first photo? Or has it just not been screwed all the way down. I would think it should sit almost flush with the surface of the hub.

Looks like you have chosen to mount the schnorkel, fixed, in the lowered position. I'd like to have mine raised, so I can use the schnorkel shaft to visually track the boat in my lakes out here (with their somewhat poor water visibility), while it is running submerged.

[goshawk823]

That's a great looking boat, David.
I remember your advice from when I built my OTW model, and the scum line/waterline colors depicting cold water operations. "Cold water colors" for that detail...lots of grays/browns... with the dishing detail you're doing on the panels, it should look awesome once it's done.
-Sam

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

ah,well. our son graduates from college Saturday, otherwise I would have driven down to see it in person.

First things first, Sam. We'll be doing Nauticus all summer long. Get a boat ready.

Some of yesterday's work. Hope to get base colors down tonight.