Bronco Type XXIII in 1/35th scale

[Kazzer]

My previous boats either had a pre cut hull or break in a different way, so When I cut my M1 it was pretty daunting, and the hull did spring quite a bit (centreline next time),, it was acceptable, and with some work I've achieved a more than passable join. Next time I will have more confidence. Take the step!

No photos of your M1? I'm almost done with mine, but I made a lead keel and it was a bit too heavy. I've had to drill it out to lighten the back end a bit. Silly me!

[Hazegry]

I shouldn't have looked at this damn it must finish skipjack first.

[Kazzer]

Hell! Now I know why I like this guy! Damn! I said it! (And not like that - you sickos!)

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Some of today's work. Got the control surfaces worked out as well as the propeller shaft foundation. Progressing according to plan!



After my horrible afternoon nap I'll plow into mounting the SD and hooking up the linkages.

[Albion]

My previous boats either had a pre cut hull or break in a different way, so When I cut my M1 it was pretty daunting, and the hull did spring quite a bit (centreline next time),, it was acceptable, and with some work I've achieved a more than passable join. Next time I will have more confidence. Take the step!

[Kazzer]

David,
......The problem with your technique is, can the average guy (which includes me) duplicate your efforts in that part of the conversion.. Without it looking like a hack job.

Steve

It isn't that hard to do. and it can and probably will look like a hack job. but you can easily repair the edges with CA and baking soda.
Once you have one edge repaired, it's easy to mask it off, wax it and then use that to mold the other edge. A pain? Yes, but a little patience and it can look pretty neat.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

David, there is something about this boat that, well, made me get two of them.. What can I say, I like them!

When I first saw you make your hull cut, I wasn't sure how clean and well fitting the two pieces would end up being. They look to fit together now like they were made that way to begin with! The problem with your technique is, can the average guy (which includes me) duplicate your efforts in that part of the conversion.. Without it looking like a hack job.

I am off to San Francisco for a business trip tomorrow morning. Will be gone for a week.. When I get back, your boat will have probably completed its sea trials!

Next step will be a torpedo launcher and functional torpedoes.

What about retractable masts? Seems like your sub-driver tube would block the scope and schnorkel from fully retracting. I think they would need to lower down into the ballast tank region of the tube. Maybe Manfred will attempt to make the masts functional on his..

Steve

Yes, the most daunting aspect of my approach with this model is the waterline cut. It requires careful set-up, a flat surface, use of a waterline marking tool, and a special tool holding fixture to insure a uniform of height cut along the longitudinal break. Not many are up to it. Then again, r/c model submarining is not for every one. This is a game for the elites in this craft, after all. This is NOT an entry-level activity.

Indeed, I'm in a rush to get this thing into the water, for two reasons: First, it will cheese Manfred off to no end. And, second, because I have other work piled up and I got to get too. Tonight I cast up the foundations and trial set of control surfaces. I soldered together the three bell-cranks and got the stern plans, bow planes and rudder to swing freely -- I was very happy to find just enough room in the upper rudder support arm to house the standard type bell-crank I made for the rudder. It's lever arm is very short, yes, but equates to the first hole of the typical servo horn (bell-crank), so there won't be any binding as a result of servo over-throw. And I get about 35-degree of deflection from the rudder, left and right.

Pictures tomorrow, I'm too tired to fool with it tonight ... er .... this morning.

No retractable scope. The SD gets in the way, as you point out. And the scale snorkel is right over the practical SAS snorkel, so that thing is non-retractable.

I can only imagine what Manfred will come up with! I'm sliding over to his side to see what he's up to with his Type-23.

Night.

David

[Warpatroller]

You got it bad, don't you, Steve?!

David, there is something about this boat that, well, made me get two of them.. What can I say, I like them!

When I first saw you make your hull cut, I wasn't sure how clean and well fitting the two pieces would end up being. They look to fit together now like they were made that way to begin with! The problem with your technique is, can the average guy (which includes me) duplicate your efforts in that part of the conversion.. Without it looking like a hack job.

I am off to San Francisco for a business trip tomorrow morning. Will be gone for a week.. When I get back, your boat will have probably completed its sea trials!

Next step will be a torpedo launcher and functional torpedoes.

What about retractable masts? Seems like your sub-driver tube would block the scope and schnorkel from fully retracting. I think they would need to lower down into the ballast tank region of the tube. Maybe Manfred will attempt to make the masts functional on his..

Steve

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Go and finish your Kilo!

Hah! Hear that, Romel???

Oh, and all you *******s in Ellie's corner: F off!

David

[Subculture]

Go and finish your Kilo!

[redboat219]

Ellie stop hitting David with that little stick, get something bigger like a bat or paddle.

[MFR1964]

Excellent work on the masters David, Ellie aim for the weak parts!!!!!, it will buy me some extra time to get in the water first, you go girl!!!!!

Manfred.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Time has come to stick things together, toss this piglet into the water and verify that the SD has enough ballast tank and that the linkages work as designed. But, before I can do that I need the parts. Today I started making the tools needed to produce production resin parts of the control surfaces, propeller foundation, and SD foundations.

The initial in-water trials can be done while the plastic parts are in the raw. I'll make the Type-23 look pretty at a later date, time permitting.



And would someone PLEASE tell Ellie to stop slamming me in the face with that damned stick!!! ..... its distracting.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Got the closure system worked out for the upper and lower hull pieces. Basically, one set of capture tabs on one half, and another set of capture tabs on the other -- squeeze the upper hull piece a bit as it's installed and it pops into place up tight onto the lower hull. Neat.

Got the control surface, propeller shaft foundation, and Sub-driver foundation masters in primer-gray. Tool making tomorrow.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

You got it bad, don't you, Steve?!