German Type 212A 3D Print Build

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  • RCSubGuy
    replied
    Great thinking, Rob. You could also use a soldering iron to fuse the nubs to the hull itself, almost like a permanent rivet.

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  • rwtdiver
    replied
    One of the ways I use to help alien the parts, is to use PLA filament.

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    The files on the 212 come with the alignment holes already provided. The standard size PLA works great for the alignment pins.

    Rob
    "Firemen can stand the heat."

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  • biggsgolf
    replied
    Looking good!

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  • rwtdiver
    replied
    As I stated in the last post, here is one of the 3 construction videos that Bob has out on his 212 A kits showing the stern section control surface linkages.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AbMwLnpzKqA&t=3855s (About 39.00 min into the video)

    Rob
    "Firemen can stand the heat."

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  • rwtdiver
    replied
    After a few unforeseen health delays, I am back to the 212 build.

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    With all the 3D printed parts completed, I am going to start the glue up procedures. After considerable study of the different stern section linkages, I have pretty much made up my mind as to how I am going to do!

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    I am going to use the same system design that Bob (Nautilus Drydocks) uses on his 212 A kits that he is selling. Linking it up to my new series 300 EasyDriver should be a snap! I will post up one of his build videos that show this type linkage installation.

    Rob
    "Firemen can stand the heat."



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  • JHapprich
    replied
    Concerning the smaller 206'




    And


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  • RCSubGuy
    replied
    Originally posted by vital.spark
    Like the travel case!! What is it and where did you get it?
    Check Amazon for rifle cases. Lots of options depending on the size of your boat.

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  • rwtdiver
    replied
    Originally posted by JHapprich
    Sure. 212' are large for german standards. Likely a lot more cramped than when they entered service as new tech has been installed over the years. Check for videos of the 205 or 206 A, THOSE were crowded. Not to mention a 206A "sank' an US nuclear carrier on NATO manouvers....
    Hi Jorg,

    I also see that they are working on a larger 212 A! It's the 212 CD which is substantially larger with a little different hull design. German engineering is always at the front of the line..

    Rob
    "Firemen can stand the heat."

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  • rwtdiver
    replied
    Originally posted by wlambing
    In some applications, a length of 3/32" brass tube can be slipped over a piece of rod (pre-bending planning is required!) to stiffen up a long run of push-rod. This makes a world of difference in vessels such as the old SubTech USS Marlin, for example.
    wlambing,

    I certainly see where your idea would be another option. I have a RTR 212 A coming, and I will be looking at how the linkages are set up in that boat. The one thing about my 212 build is, I will be
    using the same 300 series EasyDriver in other boats as well. I will need to have a proper disconnect system in order to achieve this. Some thinking to be done for sure.

    Thank you for your input wlambing, very much appreciated.

    Rob
    "Firemen can stand the heat."

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  • JHapprich
    replied
    Sure. 212' are large for german standards. Likely a lot more cramped than when they entered service as new tech has been installed over the years. Check for videos of the 205 or 206 A, THOSE were crowded. Not to mention a 206A "sank' an US nuclear carrier on NATO manouvers....

    Leave a comment:


  • wlambing
    replied
    In some applications, a length of 3/32" brass tube can be slipped over a piece of rod (pre-bending planning is required!) to stiffen up a long run of push-rod. This makes a world of difference in vessels such as the old SubTech USS Marlin, for example.

    Leave a comment:


  • rwtdiver
    replied
    I only have 3 more top hull sections to print out on the 212, then the printing work will be complete.

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    I am waiting for a roll of Dremel to be delivered from good old amazon today. After I finish up the last 3 sections I will start on the build up. I am also waiting on some 1/16"
    brass rod for my linkages, as well as the closed cell foam for flotation. I looked at the 1/16" TIG stainless steel welding rod from amazon, the price of the package of rod was $20.00, but they wanted $31.00 to deliver it.:-((

    I have always had good luck with the better quality brass rod, so I will stick with it. When the new 212 sub arrives, it will be a good guide as to how to set up the sub I am building as far as weight and foam floatation installation.

    Rob
    "Firemen can stand the heat."

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  • rwtdiver
    replied
    Originally posted by vital.spark
    Like the travel case!! What is it and where did you get it?
    HI vital.spark,

    The case came with the German 212 A package (submarine, EasyDriver, radio system, and case)

    My suggestion would email Bob at Nautilus Drydocks. He may have access to them and would sell them as a single sale.

    Rob
    ​​​​​​"Firemen can stand the heat."

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  • vital.spark
    replied
    Like the travel case!! What is it and where did you get it?

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  • rwtdiver
    replied
    I did something today that I have been wanting to do for sometime now!

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    I purchased a RTR 212 A Submarine from Nautilus Drydocks. I am currently 3D Printing and starting the build on my own 212 A, But having one already built and ready to go seemed like a great idea to me, especially now that the weather here in Arizona is great and my pool looks great, and to have a 212 right now RTR will be fun to operate while I am in the process of building my own 212 A.

    Working with Bob (Nautilus Drydocks) through this whole German 212 A process was really great. His promptness answering all my email questions was superb.

    Rob
    "Firemen can stand the heat."
    Last edited by rwtdiver; 02-22-2024, 04:21 AM.

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