HMS X-Class Stickleback Midget Submarine

[rwtdiver]

Today I worked on and completed the rudder and dive plane install with linkages for the rudder back to the WT. I may have to install a water proof servo for the dive planes!?



While I was at it I installed some of the little fixtures that I printed out for this boat.

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[rwtdiver]

Today I took the old oil light prop bushing out and replaced it with the correct Dia. size. Now the prop is turning straight and true and no wobbling. And instead of a dog bone type hook up I was able to use a stainless-steel universal joint to tie the prop shaft to the motor shaft. Totally better!





I will now start on the rudder and the stern dive planes linkage.

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[rwtdiver]

After some breakaway time from the Stickleback building (The Shark Build) I am back on finishing up my Stickleback!



I have the WTC installed and locked into place, and both top deck hold downs completed I can now move onto the propulsion system and the control linkages. Along with the Stickleback submarine build, I latched onto another project that will be sort of back and forth. If you look down and the right hand corner of the photo you will see this new project.



This is going to be of some interest for Ken, and Bob G. They both enjoy building surface boats (Target Boats) to submariners! I will be doing a short build blog on this forum for the outboard motor as well as a surface boat which I will install the outboard on. (Just a fun breakaway project)

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[rwtdiver]

Today I went to work on the fasteners for the top deck hold downs.





I realize this sort of stuff is somewhat elementary to most of you guys, but it does show how I use the threaded brass inserts and stainless steel screws for my hold downs. The Vaseline that you see is used on the screw threads while using thin CA to secure the brass inserts, the Vaseline keeps the CA from penetrating the threads. I have also used the tip of a hot soldering iron to melt the brass inserts into the hole. Both ways work well.

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[Das Boot]

Reminds me of Dave Merriman favorite movie, “Submarine X-1”’.

[rwtdiver]

Today I finished up putting the upper hull sections together, and installing the WTC hold in place bracing as well as the bracket supports for holding the top deck down.


I will be installing threaded brass insert and using stanless steel bolts for holding the top deck in place.

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[rwtdiver]

It has certainly been a while since I have been able to work on my HMS Stickleback submarine! But here I am back at it again.


These photos show approximately where I left off on the build. I am ready to put the hull sections together for the upper hull, at which point I can start on the control surface installation and prop installation.

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[Subculture]

I do not have access to a UV light

We all have that, it's called the sun.

[rwtdiver]

You are planning to glue a tube for your antenna to your watertight compartment. So suggested other options. The tire valve has gaskets and threaded barrel to make a watertight seal. Using silicone you could seal the tubes you have together with a more flexible connection. Or just using silicone you could mold it around the antenna for a seal. The candle showed that the LED could be molded to look like a flame as it was covered.

Scott T.

I understand what you are trying to do. Thank you your input. Another option I could use, but at this point I am not going with the 2.4 system on this boat.

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[Scott T]

You are planning to glue a tube for your antenna to your watertight compartment. So suggested other options. The tire valve has gaskets and threaded barrel to make a watertight seal. Using silicone you could seal the tubes you have together with a more flexible connection. Or just using silicone you could mold it around the antenna for a seal. The candle showed that the LED could be molded to look like a flame as it was covered.

[rwtdiver]

Scott T.

Not sure what the purpose of what you are trying to achieve here!?

Rob
Firemen can stand the heat."

[Scott T]

How about a tire valve stem or form some silicone to plug the hole and wrap the antenna. Similar to how they make the flame shape on a LED votive candle.

[rwtdiver]

Got a little building done today!



Mounted the stern shaft bushing for the propeller shaft.





Now that I have all the brass sleeves and control surface rods sized and cut, I can now secure the stern section to the rest of the bottom hull.

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[rwtdiver]

Things might be changing!



It's been about 5 years ago I received a partial 2" sub driver from David M. It was sort of set up to be used on my 1:77 scale Nautilus that I built back then. I did use it for the Nautilus, but I had some other parts and pieces that he sent me that I think will work on my Stickleback!? I will need to add another servo for the dive planes. But the good thing is I have a VEX receiver inside. I have 2 VEX Transmitters with extra modules, so I am in business with this new set up. Thanks to David M.

I have been having some issues with my eyes, and I have an appointment today for some testing, so I will be of the blog for a while!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[redboat219]

Thank you Romel,

I do not have access to a UV light nor do I have the resin required. I will go with Bob's suggestion, and use either epoxy or superglue.

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

No problem.

Just in case...