HMS X-Class Stickleback Midget Submarine

[rwtdiver]

How about those UV resin you cure with a UV flashlight.

Thank you Romel,

I do not have access to a UV light nor do I have the resin required. I will go with Bob's suggestion, and use either epoxy or superglue.

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[redboat219]

How about those UV resin you cure with a UV flashlight.

[rwtdiver]

Ideally? Methyl methacrylate, though it can be hard to come by.

Superglue and epoxy work really well, and are, obviously, much easier to come by.

Thank you Bob,

I really appreciate your help and expertise! :-))

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[RCSubGuy]

Ideally? Methyl methacrylate, though it can be hard to come by.

Superglue and epoxy work really well, and are, obviously, much easier to come by.

[rwtdiver]

Correct, just the last 1.25" of unshielded wire is the actual antenna, and provided it's above the water, you're in good shape.

Bob

Thanks Bob! Another one of my wild experimentational ideas! :-))

While you seem to be online. Could you suggest the best adhesive for attaching the polycarb tube to the polycarbonate cylinder?

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[RCSubGuy]

From what I have learned from some on this forum about the 2.4 antenna extension, as long as a portion (similar to the photo above) is above the water line it will be able to receive from the transmitter!?

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

Correct, just the last 1.25" of unshielded wire is the actual antenna, and provided it's above the water, you're in good shape.

Bob

[rwtdiver]

Another question about 2.4MHZ antenna extension above the water.



From what I have learned from some on this forum about the 2.4 antenna extension, as long as a portion (similar to the photo above) is above the water line it will be able to receive from the transmitter!?

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

With the possible concerns about the looks of the sail area on the stickleback, and knowing the amount of antenna needed to be exposed, I can see that the polycarb tube can be much shorter and be able to give the look of the full-scale mast area of the Stickleback...



Rob
Firemen can stand the heat."

[rwtdiver]

I really like the idea Romel passed on to me about using a polycarb tube attached to the top of the cylinder.



My next question will be: What type of adhesive would work best to secure the polycarb tube to the polycarbonate cylinder? I need it to be secure and permeant, and of course water tight.



Ounce I have adjusted the length of the polycarb tube for the antenna, it will be painted and become a part of the sail. When I need to get into the cylinder the top deck will just slide up and off allowing full access to the cylinder.


Thanks again Romel!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

And before anyone jumps me about the tube becoming part of the sail array and not a correct depiction of the full scale boat! That's ok by me, because I am after function over what it looks like on the shelf. This is just another one of my "lets see what this idea will do."

[rwtdiver]

How about gluing a 1/4" diameter polycarb tube on top for the antenna?

Got you Romel!

I will be doing something very similar to what you have sketched out in order to seal everything up.

Thank you!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[redboat219]

How about gluing a 1/4" diameter polycarb tube on top for the antenna?

[rwtdiver]

After some thought and design work, I think my 2.4 MHz receiver will work on my boat, and without running an antenna extension on the FlySky 2.4 receiver.



I first drilled a 13/64" hole in the top of my cylinder to allow the 2.4MHz receiver antenna to pernitrate through . From there the antenna will go up through the top deck.



The antenna will run up through the sale opening which will give me plenty of height to run the boat at full deck under water without loosing any transmitter signal. I am now in the process of designing and printing out the inner deck for the WTC for mounting the electronics.

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[Alucard]

looking forward to seeing what you finally do.

[redboat219]

Not too dissimilar to your Holland build.

[rwtdiver]

The Stickleback STL files for this particular boat where set up for a model display boat. So turning it into fully operational boat is going to be challenging at best. In order to achieve this I have installed brass tubing sleeves for the rudder and dive plane assemblies.





As you can see by the photos there is going to be quite a bit of shaping and sanding work on the stern section.



The photos above show the brass sleeves and the solid brass control rods installed temporally at this point. The next step will be to start on the motor drive shaft assembly, and ounce that is completed the rudder and dive plane systems can be re-installed and operational.

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[rwtdiver]

As I work on putting together hull of the Stickleback, I am also working on the design for the WTC.



I am going to use a FlySky 4 channel 2.4ghz radio system with receiver. As the one seen above.



My plan is to run the antenna up through the sail of the Stickleback.






If I do decide to install a low pressure ballast system on this boat!? The antenna will remain above the submerged water that I will be operating at.

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."