That's actually a picture of HM Holland 1 being launched stern first off of the slipway, they never had anywhere near that freebaord when sailing .
This picture of HM Holland 2 more accurately depicts the surfaced waterline, which was minimal.
They used to flood the rear trim tank to get the stern as far underwater as possible to minimise ventilation of the prop and give better bite for the rudder.
The low freeboard made them less useful as vessel in the open sea, so they were largely confined to defending ports and quickly became obsolete. They work great as models though!
Hms holland 1 build
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Here is a actual photo of the HMS Holland 1 in action!
As you can see the stern is running deep when under power! Even when the Holland is not underway the stern still sits low in the water! This is how I have set up my Holland to run when she is under power!
Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"👍 1Leave a comment:
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Thanks Bob!
Today was my first day setting up the CG and weight for trimming the boat.
I know looking at the bottom photo that the stern is sitting low in the water! This is exactly how the full scale boat rides in the water. The stern section on the boat has a slight downward angle to it which gives it this stern low look. I will post of some photos of the full scale so that you can see the boat in actual movement.
I am very pleased with how the boat trimmed out! But when I pulled the boat out of the water and removed the top and pulled the WTC out, the WTC was not so tight!!
I found that water was coming around the seals, so I wrapped one piece of high end electrical type around the cap to see if that would seal the end cap. It did not! So, on further investigation I found that the spray sealer that I applied to the end caps did not allow the rubber seals to seal tight and the electrical tape did not seal tight to the end cap either!
So! In closing, do not use this product to seal your PLA end caps. I used to use Z-Poxy Finishing Resin which worked great, but took more labor and longer to set up. I thought the spray would be the answer, it was NOT the answer, not for WTC end caps.
So I am making new end caps and starting over again!
ANOTHER LESSON LEARNED # 1453!
Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"
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I have one side of the upper hull riveting complete!
Once the rivets are all installed, I will level them all off to the same and correct height.
Rob
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I understand!
And just know that I do appreciate your comments very much and your good advice along the way. I do apologize for getting a little uptight with you! Truth be known, the only reason I spend a lot of my time posting is not only to get advice from you and those that know so much more about building submarines than I do, but with my health situation I do not get out much at all. So, to be honest with you Casey and all those that do comment on my build blogs on this forum I consider you all friends!
I so much look forward each day to going through our forum and seeing what everyone else is doing and trying to learn as much about this hobby as I can. I also really look forward to the Zoom Dive Tribe meetings we have twice a month! (Why haven't you joined?)
OK! Enough of this whining stuff, I need to get back to building so that I can get the dam boat in the water! :-))
Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"
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I’m not good on building logs. I’m not pushing, I’m motivating. Your work is always over par. I just never see any run. Hell, I didn’t take any video of mine running in Georgia.Leave a comment:
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Originally posted by Das BootI want to see this running in the water.
Some of us have other things to attend to in life! I work the boat as much as I can! And by the way, in case you have not noticed, I have built over 14 Boats in the last 2.5 years and 90% I have a build blog on! 85% of these boats all have there own WTC and I have put videos and photos of them in the water! Cut me some slack!
How many have you built and posted up!!??
Rob
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Try using brass tubing to emboss the circular rivet head. Use an exacto blade to shave the end of the tube to a sharp edge.👍 1Leave a comment:
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Romel,
The rivets will remain very close to the skin of the boat hull and not rounded!
And those that are on the upper hull and part of the STL files will be flatten out somewhat as well! I am not going to try and to do full out exact replica of this boat! I am not and will never be a RIVET COUNTER!! :-))
Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"Last edited by rwtdiver; 09-23-2022, 02:29 AM.Leave a comment:
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I am about ready to start the finish work on the sub hull!
I am going to be adding scratch-built rivets to all the joints. I am using pieces of white PLA for the rivet itself. It will take some time, but it will be a better representation of the actual Holland boat. The actual print files did have some of the rivets, but not all!
Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"Leave a comment:
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I am about ready to start the finish work on the sub hull!
I am going to be adding scratch-built rivets to all the joints. I am using pieces of white PLA for the rivet itself. It will take some time, but it will be a better representation of the actual Holland boat. The actual print files did have some of the rivets, but not all!
Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"
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Thanks Bob,
The WTC did not start out to be a very simple design & simple in its functionality as it is now! I did have a low-pressure ballast system designed for it, but I just made it to complicated and a banded the design. I think if I get the weight set up properly on the boat as it is now, I might have a great dynamic diver!?
I may redesign another WTC for the Holland and get a low-pressure ballast system built into it; I do have the space for it! I am going to get one of my many subs to perform as it is supposed to one of these days, and I will not give up until I achieve that goal! :-))
Rob
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