Great job, Ken.
Airbrushing, new to me, looking for help advice
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What I am working on now.
I do not have nifty dividers like David has. So I traced the dive planes onto paper and looked at his pictures and drew lines where mask tape would be. I measured at certain points and divided by the right number to get the distance between the lines. In certain instances I could not get and even number so I tilted the ruler on the outside lines of the dive planes to get a evenly divisible number. That make sense?
Here is how that worked out.
Also painted the non skid area on the fairwater planes.
And I have the lower sonar dome ready for the lighter top coat.
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Was not sure what to do there, that is why I asked. So I will only do the underside.
If anyone wants to know my technique for spraying the sonar dome, here is what I did. I tried using drafting tools to try to get tape cut to mask around the dome. To tedious and troublesome. I applied tape to a section and with my finger pressed the tape where the indent is. That allowed me to see where I could run a pencil in the indent. I removed the tape and cut on the line then placed the tape back in place. Exact match.
I then cut screen down close to a good shape and used small pieces of duct tape to hold it in place. The screen would bubble here and there. I would remove the duct tape pieces and move the screen around until eventually the screen was flat to the surface of the hull. The spray away with the lighter top color.
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David, on the fairwater planes, looks like you apply the non-skid surface, then the oil can shading. The oil can shading is applied to the center of the masked off area's just like the dive planes and rudder. You have a finished picture of the fariwaters? I'm trying to figure out what the oil can shading looks like on the non-skid surface.
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David, on the fairwater planes, looks like you apply the non-skid surface, then the oil can shading. The oil can shading is applied to the center of the masked off area's just like the dive planes and rudder. You have a finished picture of the fariwaters? I'm trying to figure out what the oil can shading looks like on the non-skid surface.
And I'm guessing the non-skid and oil can shading are both given a final overspray of the base color?
Last edited by Ken_NJ; 03-04-2022, 11:08 AM.Leave a comment:
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You are a quick study, pal.
DavidLeave a comment:
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Came out great. Was able to work the screen flat against the hull. Now I think I should give it a light over spray of the light gray to tone the defined lines down a bit? Yes or no?
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Practicing for the sonar dome, on paper. This is an easy one. When I do it on the model just have to be sure the screen is flat on the hull.
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Between Steve's Thresher and David's weathering thread, Carol helped me, and we are seeing either tan or green colors for BWL hull fouling. What would be an appropriate color to use?
Also, the surface scum line has been looking like a smudged oil crayon, white or green, this about right?
AND, due to sunlight reaching below the scum line to short distance below the WL, a bright algae green section right?
Have toothpaste, brushes and sponges at the ready. Just have to get these details about colors.
Ken
The I want to do this right guyLast edited by Ken_NJ; 03-01-2022, 09:06 AM.Leave a comment:
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I was looking at Steve's thread about his Thresher. Lots of good info there.
I have started printing a 1/48 scale Thresher. It will be almost 70" long with just under an 8" beam. The bow just came off the printer. This one is being done in ABS+. It turned out very good. 20210804_095107.jpg As a kid I remember reading a book I found in the school library about the Thresher, it's tragic lossLeave a comment:
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Thumbs up to Adam's video's.
I now want to get into practicing the below waterline weathering. Remember I'm awful at colors. That is why I like rattle cans, the color exists as is with no mixing. This is what I'm thinking looking at David's tutorial. The first coat from the WL down is a medium green? The second coat from the WL down, but not as far down as the first coat. This would give me layers. And the second coat would be a brighter green than the first coat. Then the scum line at the WL is white with maybe a tint of green? Looking at the color wheel. I need to mix green and blue to get green. But how do I get a brighter green? Am I looking at this all wrong or not? I can build a boat, work with electronics and use rattle cans but this is where I am really really weak. Help, help help.
Between each layer lay down dabs of tooth-paste mask. After the last layer scrub the work with a wet cloth to remove the masking -- wonders will be revealed!
DavidLeave a comment:
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Thumbs up to Adam's video's.
I now want to get into practicing the below waterline weathering. Remember I'm awful at colors. That is why I like rattle cans, the color exists as is with no mixing. This is what I'm thinking looking at David's tutorial. The first coat from the WL down is a medium green? The second coat from the WL down, but not as far down as the first coat. This would give me layers. And the second coat would be a brighter green than the first coat. Then the scum line at the WL is white with maybe a tint of green? Looking at the color wheel. I need to mix green and blue to get green. But how do I get a brighter green? Am I looking at this all wrong or not? I can build a boat, work with electronics and use rattle cans but this is where I am really really weak. Help, help help.Last edited by Ken_NJ; 02-25-2022, 04:45 PM.Leave a comment:
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Any suggestions are helpful! Thanks. Will try that next go at it.👍 1Leave a comment:
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I thought my posting was repetitive and boring. But I guess not. A lot to learn from doing this.
To get this effect I used the fan brush (below). Like many used brushes, the bristles tend to clump up. It's the clumping up of the bristles that gave me this streaking effect. I save many things that usually get thrown out. I used the top lid from a can of shaving cream to mix the acrylic, and it's easy to clean out. The top portion on the construction paper were continuous strokes. The bottom portion were staggered strokes. I also used the triangle as a guide to get straight vertical strokes. The acrylic was mixed 1:1 with reducer in the lid. I did not wipe the paint off the brush this time. I was hoping to get a more washed out look like on David's Kilo, but by time I applied a wide brush, the acrylic had already dried.
BTW, I'm working on a list of all of the things I've purchased for this weathering endeavor. I'll post that list soon. At least before tomorrow's Dive Tribe.
Lift the brush up off the surface as you finish your sweep downward, and you will not get the thicker color lines at the end of your pass with the brush.
Hope you don't mind the hint.Leave a comment:
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