RC Conversion of Trumpeter 1/144 Submarines

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  • redboat219
    Admiral
    • Dec 2008
    • 2735

    RC Conversion of Trumpeter 1/144 Submarines


    All knowing HWSNBN

    I want to know if you're planning or currently doing RC conversions of the Trumpeter 1/144 JMSDF Soryu class, HMS Astute or their newly released Chinese PLAN Type 094 Xia class SSBN.

    Some pictures of the Xia kit showing the separate stern planes as opposed to the fixed ones on the Soryu and Astute.

    S Click image for larger version

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    Make it simple, make strong, make it work!
  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    Moderator
    • Aug 2008
    • 12253

    #2
    Originally posted by redboat219
    All knowing HWSNBN

    I want to know if you're planning or currently doing RC conversions of the Trumpeter 1/144 JMSDF Soryu class, HMS Astute or their newly released Chinese PLAN Type 094 Xia class SSBN.

    Some pictures of the Xia kit showing the separate stern planes as opposed to the fixed ones on the Soryu and Astute.

    S Click image for larger version

Name:	FB_IMG_1624029715931.jpg
Views:	762
Size:	54.8 KB
ID:	152391Click image for larger version

Name:	FB_IMG_1624029699480.jpg
Views:	670
Size:	85.4 KB
ID:	152392Click image for larger version

Name:	10771322b3.jpg
Views:	640
Size:	42.3 KB
ID:	152393Click image for larger version

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ID:	152394Click image for larger version

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Size:	65.7 KB
ID:	152395Click image for larger version

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ID:	152396Click image for larger version

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    I guess the word has not gotten out, but earlier this year I 'retired' from the commercial end of the r/c model submarine trade. I no longer produce product for commercial sales. I plan to spend the rest of my misserable life addressing my bucket-list, most of that comprising unfinished model submarines currently residing on my shop walls. I'm now exclusively in it for the fun.

    But, as any attentive reader of this forum will know, I continue contributing to this and other sites, sharing my wisdome, smarts, god-like abilities, charm, and good looks for all those within ear and eye-shot. That will continue till I'm worm-dirt.

    So, no. I'm not going to produce conversion kits for anyone but myself. So there! However with future and past posts to the forums I have/will show you how to cram an effective r/c system into these small 1/144 scale model kits that continue to pop up for sale.

    Here are some shots of work I've done with a 1.25" SD I developed for these small critters:















    Now, you can do me a favor: Where can I find the above three kits you mentioned. I want them! And I want them NOW!

    And always remember... https://youtu.be/TlXHCykk7fU

    David
    The Horrible.
    Who is John Galt?

    Comment

    • redboat219
      Admiral
      • Dec 2008
      • 2735

      #3
      David

      The 1.25 subdriver would be perfect for the Merit 1/35 British X-craft.

      What's the length of those SDs again? Click image for larger version  Name:	Screenshot_20210710-153710_YouTube.jpg Views:	0 Size:	74.7 KB ID:	152403
      Last edited by redboat219; 08-14-2021, 04:00 AM.
      Make it simple, make strong, make it work!

      Comment

      • He Who Shall Not Be Named
        Moderator
        • Aug 2008
        • 12253

        #4
        Originally posted by redboat219
        David

        The 1.25 subdriver would be perfect for the Merit 1/35 British X-craft.

        What's the length of those SDs again? Click image for larger version Name:	Screenshot_20210710-153710_YouTube.jpg Views:	0 Size:	74.7 KB ID:	152403
        Already working that kit up with an SD. Length varies with the job.

        David
        Who is John Galt?

        Comment

        • redboat219
          Admiral
          • Dec 2008
          • 2735

          #5
          Originally posted by He Who Shall Not Be Named

          Already working that kit up with an SD.

          David
          How do you access the SD on yours?

          The X craft hull is molded in right ( with deck attached) and left halves. Was thinking of gluing the 2 halve together then make a vertical cut at the stern cone where the hull transitions. The fore and aft sections will be held together using rare earth magnets like what Manfred did with his Type XXIII. Click image for larger version

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          Make it simple, make strong, make it work!

          Comment

          • He Who Shall Not Be Named
            Moderator
            • Aug 2008
            • 12253

            #6
            Glue the two halves as you described. But, make the longitudinal (equatorial) side cuts at the maximum hull diameter. Vertical (radial) cuts near the bow and stern. Stern radial cut on the top. Bow radial cut on the bottom.

            David
            Who is John Galt?

            Comment

            • redboat219
              Admiral
              • Dec 2008
              • 2735

              #7
              Aah the dreaded longitudinal cut! Click image for larger version

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              Make it simple, make strong, make it work!

              Comment

              • He Who Shall Not Be Named
                Moderator
                • Aug 2008
                • 12253

                #8
                Originally posted by redboat219
                Aah the dreaded longitudinal cut! Click image for larger version

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                Now, now!... Stop whining. Credit where credit is do. I blame those two Canadians, Dan Kachur and Greg Sharpe for coming up with and promoting the infamous Z-cut towards the end of the last century. No better way to access the innards and still hide most of the inevitable gaps.

                David
                Who is John Galt?

                Comment

                • Monahan Steam Models
                  Captain
                  • Apr 2020
                  • 755

                  #9
                  Has anyone here had good clean results making a longitudinal cut with a razor saw? Asking for a friend…..

                  Comment

                  • redboat219
                    Admiral
                    • Dec 2008
                    • 2735

                    #10
                    Waterline ship models have become popular in larger scales, but, for a long time, kits with a waterline option typically came in 1/700 scale or smaller. Many of us have larger-scale ships in our stashes that don’t offer the waterline display, which means cutting the hull: a daunting prospect to be sure. However, it doesn’t have to be. Using a methodical approach and tools every modeler should have, anyone can convert a full-hull ship model for waterline display.
                    Make it simple, make strong, make it work!

                    Comment

                    • redboat219
                      Admiral
                      • Dec 2008
                      • 2735

                      #11
                      Merit molded the outlets for the external control linkages open. Click image for larger version

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                      Last edited by redboat219; 08-15-2021, 04:43 AM.
                      Make it simple, make strong, make it work!

                      Comment

                      • redboat219
                        Admiral
                        • Dec 2008
                        • 2735

                        #12
                        One flaw with the kit is the propeller, looks more appropriate on a plane. Click image for larger version

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                        Make it simple, make strong, make it work!

                        Comment

                        • wlambing
                          Commander
                          • Nov 2020
                          • 291

                          #13
                          I make cuts with either a razor saw or an Xacto blade used backwards as a gouge. Works great in styrene! I try to line the cuts up to the underside of a molded weld line, at or below the waterline. Does 2 things; a) Makes a natural guide for a pretty straight cut, and, b) Hides the seam under the slight lip of the weld line. The fingers DO get tired, though!

                          Comment

                          • redboat219
                            Admiral
                            • Dec 2008
                            • 2735

                            #14
                            David, regarding your personal conversion of the x-craft, are you fabricating new resin appendages or are the kit parts sufficient?
                            Make it simple, make strong, make it work!

                            Comment

                            • He Who Shall Not Be Named
                              Moderator
                              • Aug 2008
                              • 12253

                              #15
                              Originally posted by redboat219
                              David, regarding your personal conversion of the x-craft, are you fabricating new resin appendages or are the kit parts sufficient?
                              All kit parts, even the propeller. As I no longer mass-produce it's a much simpler and quicker thing if I just adapt existing static parts to become dynamic parts. And this particular kit is most adaptable for conversion to four channel r/c use. Stern planes, rudder, ballast sub-system, and throttle. Eazy-Peizi.

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                              David
                              Who is John Galt?

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