Regarding today’s video release “1:48 Scale George Washington Carver RC Submarine Overview” I really wanted to let you know how impressed and gratified I was that you mentioned an alternate method to the ubiquitous Water Tight Cylinder when it came to the larger hulls.
It shows this community that you are at least just as interested (probably even more so) in having a craftsman build his boat by whatever means is appropriate, or affordable, for that particular application, than making a sale. Even though of course the SubDriver or OTW Cylinder is a good portion of your business, and you have to be a businessman to survive. You walk a fine line. So on a personal note, kudos. You are the vendor I like to see, as well as patronize, to help stay in business.
As I mentioned in many a post, I prefer larger boats, and the last several years, through experimentation, came to my personal preference of what to do with the design and construction of 1:48 scale and larger boats. So you can understand how elated I was when you recommended Pelican cases or diver boxes for these larger builds. The propulsion recommendation was spot on as well. I really feel as a rule of thumb this method really fits 1:48 scale and larger, I also feel the SubDriver, OTW Cylinder or home made WTC is the way to go for 1:72 and smaller. These boxes are not for ones 1:96 ALFA! Again, as a rule of thumb or course.
So with that in mind, I’m posting the following pictures from my USS SHARK SSN-591, in hopes that it may help clarify for our shipmates exactly what you were talking about. That they are practical for these monsters. I know I’ve posted these before ad-nauseum, but hopefully they’re a good example of what you were doing a great job of explaining. In being of course that she fit’s what you said to the “t”. The compliment you gave me at Groton regarding her was very well received!
I use S3 brand Clear Diver boxes rated to 80 ft. These acrylic boxes are very easy to work with, SCIGRIP 16 10315 Acrylic Cement works GREAT with it.
Overall arrangement: (Excuse the bald fat man….)
In order from Bow to Stern
1-Yellow: Charging, STANDBY POWER Switch
2-Small clear S3 T1000 Case, Remote POWER ON switch
3-Single Ballast Tank (Diaphragm pump LPB w/Gas Backup. Servo “in the wet” Vent Valve
4-Large Clear S3 T2500 Case, Command and Control
5-Large Clear S3 T2500 Case, Propulsion.
Here is an example of a S3 T1000 Power box, one that I’m using on PROTEUS. It combines the functions of yellow box and clear box mentioned above (isn’t evolution good?!). I can charge and power on PROTEUS just using the orange “Gatorade cap”. A 433Mhz 2ch remote will switch from Standby mode to Underway mode, 20A fused. The second channel is for lighting, 5A fused. Separating this from the main CnC box was primarily for real estate issues, but I feel lowers potential EMI issues as well. I'm also a big fan of modulating. Becuase even though the points of failure for a leakage is increased, less electronics will be affected. That's why ships are compartmentalized, to contain the flooding lol.
The single Ballast Tank Again, servo “in the wet”.
Here is the Command and Control box opened, you can see +12VDC and -12VDC Power rails for power distribution, the Receiver, Servos, Telemetry Electronics, Push-rod thru-hulls (based on a recent video tip of Bob’s), and the 2mm Banana jacks for electrical through hulls.
Finally, here is the propulsion box. The motor is a Redmond PE20270 12VDC 10A Motor, an RV HVAC motor! Direct drive to 3-1/2” solid brass prop. This particular motor was a gift from Ray Mason, but they can be had on EBAY.
Again, spot on with drive recommendation! Even with direct drive, from this chart from an earlier post we can see at my average cruising speed (50% Throttle, ) I draw about an amp. That day in Groton I ran for several hours with little drop in Voltage! These motors have the torque, and efficiency!
The proof is in the chart folks!!
FWIW, I tore it apart two years ago or so, and it IS Electrically suppressed just like you said, the caps were identical to what we use on brushed motors!
Anyway, I always say, the hardware must fit the application, and your explanation of how you would finish the GWC in my not so humble opinion, is the way to go for a “big girl” They certainly are easier to access than nut/inch bolt down drybox, as well as adding location and removal maintenance flexibility. Though not as plug-n-play as a SubDriver (an Engineering compliment to HWMNBN! lol), this method really isn’t beyond the average builder, I can attest to that!
Smaller scales, nothing beats a SubDriver, Larger scales should consider these. IMNSHO.
I’m leaning to a single dry box (RCVR, ESC, BLM, APC only), Servos “in the wet” and your modified "Bilge Pump propulsion motor method for my twin screw DeBoer 1:48 USS NAUTILUS SSN-571 and 1:48 USS KRAKEN SS-370 builds. I'll be using a 3 conductor version of your 2 conductor Waterproof lighting connectors for the Servo Electrical-thru hulls. Funny enough, over 20 years of owing 1:1 scale sailboats and I never considered using my own bilge pumps for RC Sub propulsion lol!! You GO dude!
Thanks again for another great video.
I’m just ****ed I missed jumping on the GWC! After all, I'm trying to corner the market at 1:48 scale lol! Whoever owns her now better not let her languish in some basement! I’m keeping my eye out!!
It shows this community that you are at least just as interested (probably even more so) in having a craftsman build his boat by whatever means is appropriate, or affordable, for that particular application, than making a sale. Even though of course the SubDriver or OTW Cylinder is a good portion of your business, and you have to be a businessman to survive. You walk a fine line. So on a personal note, kudos. You are the vendor I like to see, as well as patronize, to help stay in business.
As I mentioned in many a post, I prefer larger boats, and the last several years, through experimentation, came to my personal preference of what to do with the design and construction of 1:48 scale and larger boats. So you can understand how elated I was when you recommended Pelican cases or diver boxes for these larger builds. The propulsion recommendation was spot on as well. I really feel as a rule of thumb this method really fits 1:48 scale and larger, I also feel the SubDriver, OTW Cylinder or home made WTC is the way to go for 1:72 and smaller. These boxes are not for ones 1:96 ALFA! Again, as a rule of thumb or course.
So with that in mind, I’m posting the following pictures from my USS SHARK SSN-591, in hopes that it may help clarify for our shipmates exactly what you were talking about. That they are practical for these monsters. I know I’ve posted these before ad-nauseum, but hopefully they’re a good example of what you were doing a great job of explaining. In being of course that she fit’s what you said to the “t”. The compliment you gave me at Groton regarding her was very well received!
I use S3 brand Clear Diver boxes rated to 80 ft. These acrylic boxes are very easy to work with, SCIGRIP 16 10315 Acrylic Cement works GREAT with it.
Overall arrangement: (Excuse the bald fat man….)
In order from Bow to Stern
1-Yellow: Charging, STANDBY POWER Switch
2-Small clear S3 T1000 Case, Remote POWER ON switch
3-Single Ballast Tank (Diaphragm pump LPB w/Gas Backup. Servo “in the wet” Vent Valve
4-Large Clear S3 T2500 Case, Command and Control
5-Large Clear S3 T2500 Case, Propulsion.
Here is an example of a S3 T1000 Power box, one that I’m using on PROTEUS. It combines the functions of yellow box and clear box mentioned above (isn’t evolution good?!). I can charge and power on PROTEUS just using the orange “Gatorade cap”. A 433Mhz 2ch remote will switch from Standby mode to Underway mode, 20A fused. The second channel is for lighting, 5A fused. Separating this from the main CnC box was primarily for real estate issues, but I feel lowers potential EMI issues as well. I'm also a big fan of modulating. Becuase even though the points of failure for a leakage is increased, less electronics will be affected. That's why ships are compartmentalized, to contain the flooding lol.
The single Ballast Tank Again, servo “in the wet”.
Here is the Command and Control box opened, you can see +12VDC and -12VDC Power rails for power distribution, the Receiver, Servos, Telemetry Electronics, Push-rod thru-hulls (based on a recent video tip of Bob’s), and the 2mm Banana jacks for electrical through hulls.
Finally, here is the propulsion box. The motor is a Redmond PE20270 12VDC 10A Motor, an RV HVAC motor! Direct drive to 3-1/2” solid brass prop. This particular motor was a gift from Ray Mason, but they can be had on EBAY.
Again, spot on with drive recommendation! Even with direct drive, from this chart from an earlier post we can see at my average cruising speed (50% Throttle, ) I draw about an amp. That day in Groton I ran for several hours with little drop in Voltage! These motors have the torque, and efficiency!
The proof is in the chart folks!!
FWIW, I tore it apart two years ago or so, and it IS Electrically suppressed just like you said, the caps were identical to what we use on brushed motors!
Anyway, I always say, the hardware must fit the application, and your explanation of how you would finish the GWC in my not so humble opinion, is the way to go for a “big girl” They certainly are easier to access than nut/inch bolt down drybox, as well as adding location and removal maintenance flexibility. Though not as plug-n-play as a SubDriver (an Engineering compliment to HWMNBN! lol), this method really isn’t beyond the average builder, I can attest to that!
Smaller scales, nothing beats a SubDriver, Larger scales should consider these. IMNSHO.
I’m leaning to a single dry box (RCVR, ESC, BLM, APC only), Servos “in the wet” and your modified "Bilge Pump propulsion motor method for my twin screw DeBoer 1:48 USS NAUTILUS SSN-571 and 1:48 USS KRAKEN SS-370 builds. I'll be using a 3 conductor version of your 2 conductor Waterproof lighting connectors for the Servo Electrical-thru hulls. Funny enough, over 20 years of owing 1:1 scale sailboats and I never considered using my own bilge pumps for RC Sub propulsion lol!! You GO dude!
Thanks again for another great video.
I’m just ****ed I missed jumping on the GWC! After all, I'm trying to corner the market at 1:48 scale lol! Whoever owns her now better not let her languish in some basement! I’m keeping my eye out!!
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