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the SubDriver becomes modular

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  • #46
    Always a pleasure to annoy you David, i'm fine, goofing around on this ball of dirt, and running around in the cave.
    Nice solution the modular style, so, WIP V80??, it should be cured by this time.

    Fertig zum unterwasser.


    • #47

      Before the mid-day break for my hideous nap I got this much done converting a 2.5"-to-2.5" pre-production union casting into a 2.5"-to-3" union. I turned a new RenShape radial flange for the step-up required, using the core of a ballast tank half of a 2.5" union for the innards of this pre-production master.

      Anyway, here's how far I got this morning:

      Later I'll produce a step-up union for a larger, 3.75" cylinder.

      "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"


      • #48

        It’s one thing to come up with a clever innovation on an old concept – maturing the WTC to a proper modular system being discussed here as example – but it’s another thing to knuckle-down and get on with the donkey-work of actually making the items that will comprise the new system.

        You’re looking at about two-hundred-dollars worth of 2” thick, 40 lbs. per-cubic-foot, pattern making medium. Most of it soon to be reduced to chips on the shop floor. God’s answer to pattern makers, this extremely dense polyurethane foam is so much superior to the Kiln-dried, carefully selected pattern maker woods used almost exclusively a half-century ago. Sugar Pine was my favorite, but all that timber has long been pulled from the bins, completely replaced by the synthetics. Thank you chemical-scientists!

        No grain. No pitch. No drying and cracking over time. RenShape takes to all adhesives, and its high pH sets off CA glue in record time. If RenShape could only cook!

        Here’s the one I prefer for most of my detail work (the less dense stuff requires extensive filling to get a good surface finish, so I use that version only as floatation material or a back-up to a GRP skin).

        ‘Measure twice and cut once’, as the old Carpenter’s saying goes. And that double-check philosophy starts with a carefully prepared set of orthographic shop drawings, to the scale of the work, and oversized to account for tool and casting shrinkage (that fudge-factor more art than math, I can assure you!).

        I had already made a master, a tool, and some castings of the 2.5” ballast tank half of the 2.5-to-2.5 union. Now has come the time to make like units for the 3” and 3.75” ballast tank union halves. To save myself effort I simply took the core of the 2.5” castings and married them with 3” and a 3.75” radial flange. To ready these cores I milled away the 2.5” radial flanges on the mill as seen here.

        Flat bottom work is easily secured to the milling machines cross-feed bed with a simple L-section aluminum strong-back held down with two jacking screws – holding fixture 101. To enhance the friction between work and bed I glued a big piece of sandpaper atop the bed.

        I’m grinding away the radial flange of the original 2.5” diameter after union half. That work has already been done, as seen with the milled union half to the left. The objective is to insert these cores into larger diameter, RenShape radial flanges. One is for the 3” diameter ballast tank. The other is for the 3.75” diameter ballast tank.

        Here I’m turning a larger diameter radial flange on the lathe. I’m holding a core that will insert within the radial flange, that core containing the foundations and pass-through holes needed to operate the vent valve and (if installed) emergency blow valve.

        This is the end-game for the two ballast mechanism cores: use them as inserts into the larger diameter radial flanges.

        Important safety note: only idiots ware long-sleeve shirt, ties, apron strings tied at the front, and gloves around powerful rotating machine tools! First lesson in shop-class: “Machines don’t care” and, “Machines cut metal and flesh with equal enthusiasm!”

        Yes, sometimes I’m a careless idiot. And sometimes … I pay the price, and got the scars to prove it! Not battle-scars. No! Idiot scars.


        Want some reinforcement? Check out this video (have a puke-bucket handy),

        RenShape is easy to cut but quickly dulls high-speed steel. I found it more expedient to do the rough-cuts on the mill and to finish off the round-work on the lathe. Typically a blank was turned to the outside diameter on the lathe then transferred to the mill and the internal cavity roughed out.

        Notice the Michael Jackson glove-look (I was getting blisters from spending two days driving cross-slides, that is why I’m warring the damned thing).


        Every time I look at the pictures of me operating heavy rotating machinery like this I cringe! (In the caring, and caressing voice of Escape From New York’s villain, A-number-One, as shop-class instructor: “WHAT DID I TEACH YOU!!!!”).

        God-damned! Sometimes I’m such a stupid dumb-ass!! And after seven-decades I still have all my fingers! Amazing.

        "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"


        • #49
          Question on renshape. Is a super glued joint strong enough to turn? If yes could you then cut the cylinder with a bandsaw then glue it to a solid renshape plate then finish turning?
          Work is looking good.


          • #50
            Originally posted by Scott T View Post
            Question on renshape. Is a super glued joint strong enough to turn? If yes could you then cut the cylinder with a bandsaw then glue it to a solid renshape plate then finish turning?
            Work is looking good.
            I'm not clear on this. Am I turning a RenShape cylinder or a Lexan cylinder, Scott? I face-mount RenShape to a RenShape face-plate all the time without incident. The CA bond is iron strong with that material.

            "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"


            • #51
              So I see you milling out the inside portion of the end-cap/ballast tank and
              wondered if it would be less labor intensive to cut, glue then turn/mill the part.

              A good shop teacher always tells you afterward what is easier.

              Click image for larger version  Name:	cutting.jpg Views:	0 Size:	87.4 KB ID:	134825