The Great British M1

[Kazzer]

Well, it looks like The Wizard has cast his evil spell on my work and my interpretation of Lambert's plans. He seems to think the ribs are far too pronounced and that the planes are contoured/profiled. The 'ribs' I show, should be just mere thin plates on a profiled aerodynamic foil, not the huge thick cast struts I depict.

However, I think that the S Class and T Class planes are obviously just flat steel sheets with no aerodynamic shape to them. I've asked some British scuba divers who are familiar with the wreck if they can confirm the shapes for me.

[Kazzer]

I asked John Lambert in England about the ribs on his plans. Here is his reply.

Hi Mike,

Well, I'm not sure, but the ribs do look a bit thick. Although they ARE shown on the original drawing, I suggest that the outer shell is smooth, and that the ribs are internal. Does that help?

Unfortunately all the photographs show the fins underwater. But thinking about it all the other classes are smooth, so why change it.

Yours "Aye" John.

So I guess I'm getting out the filler and smoothing out those planes. Darn, I had fun making them!

[herrmill]

I guess that makes sense. I thought they got half way done and said screw it. You know the british!

I've always wondered what side of the family I got that trait from. I'll drink to THAT!

[Kazzer]

I've just received the first M1 pull from the molds.

We've decided to go with the split as supplied (see photos). I think this gives more options for real model-makers to tinker with their own ideas.

I'm going to ship the model with the excess material on it, as it offers a great deal of protection during shipping. (And it saves us doing it)

The excess trims off easily with a utility knife, and I found that the edge is easily smoothed off by laying a piece of 120 grit sandpaper on the table top and running the hull half evenly up and down.

I am going to glue the hull halves together using epoxy and Cabosil to thicken it, letting the material squeeze out of the joints. Once this is done, then I am going to cut the hull, probably in a Z cut. There is very little space in the Duck's Tail stern for rudder arms etc. so this needs a lot of thought I'm thinking that I should make the cut about 1/4" forward of the rudder shaft, so that access is easier. I've been caught too many times fiddling around with the innards of these boats being just out of reach.

Another few days and I should have the rudders and dive planes molded and in production. As previously stated, the Lambert plans have struts showing on planes & rudder, and that is a mistake, so the new planes will be smooth.

Any ideas on how you would cut the hull, please?

[toppack]

Mike,
I don't remember if you said, but is it made from Gel-coat on exterior, with fiberglass on inside?
That's what it looks like in pics.
If so, I would probably cut it with cut-off wheels that fit Dremel. The new diamond impregnated type. They make a very thin cut and don't break like the old Dremel cut-off wheels. They did a great job on the FG T-class.
Steady hands or a holding fixture are required but these wheels cut so easy it's not too difficult to hold steady.
Of course they can cut fingers Just as Easy.
See Link:

http://cgi.ebay.com/10-DIAMOND-CUT-OFF-WHEEL-LAPIDARY-DISC-SAW-fits-Dremel_W0QQitemZ310141890325QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item4835e5af15&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318%7C301%3A1%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50

[Kazzer]

Mike,
I don't remember if you said, but is it made from Gel-coat on exterior, with fiberglass on inside?
That's what it looks like in pics.
If so, I would probably cut it with cut-off wheels that fit Dremel. The new diamond impregnated type. They make a very thin cut and don't brake like the old Dremel cut-off wheels. They did a great job on the FG T-class.
Steady hands or a holding fixture are required but these wheels cut so easy it's not too difficult to hold steady.
See Link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/10-DIAMOND-CUT-O...3A1%7C294%3A50

Sorry Rick! By ' Any ideas on how you would cut the hull, please? ' I meant Where you would cut the hull, rather than how.

[toppack]

:D LOL
And they keep telling me the English speak Our language! :D

Of course the best place would be just below the superstructure, if that will make a large enough hole to stuff everything in.
If not, might as well make it at the widest part of the hull, where the hull is most vertical. A cut in a vertical wall is easyer to fit together with smaller gap, than a sloped wall.

[Kazzer]

:D LOL
And they keep telling me the English speak Our language! :D

Pillock! From someone who is challenged by the spelling in the language too! See 'easyer' below. Why is it that most people educated in the USA can't spell worth a ****?
:)

Of course the best place would be just below the superstructure, if that will make a large enough hole to stuff everything in.
If not, might as well make it at the widest part of the hull, where the hull is most vertical. A cut in a vertical wall is easyer to fit together with smaller gap, than a sloped wall.

Good grief! He thinks I may use an axe or a chainsaw to cut the hull? When what I'm after is, do I use the Z cut method, the standard 'top off with the forward end of the top attached', or something completely different? As usual, the horizontal cut would be at the waterline.

Sometimes asking questions isn't such a good thing!:)

[Albion]

Pillock! From someone who is challenged by the spelling in the language too! See 'easyer' below. Why is it that most people educated in the USA can't spell worth a ****?
:)

Good grief! He thinks I may use an axe or a chainsaw to cut the hull? When what I'm after is, do I use the Z cut method, the standard 'top off with the forward end of the top attached', or something completely different? As usual, the horizontal cut would be at the waterline.

Sometimes asking questions isn't such a good thing!:)

I think method b based on what ive seen so far.

America and England, two nations divided by a common language, just wish my company allowed me to drop the US speel checker, "Supervize, Improvize" indeed.

BTW Axe is the way to goI'll drink to THAT!

[Nuke Power]

You need to provide more info to get a proper answer to that question mike...

What is the beam at maximum dia. what is the beam at the deck? What size sub driver are you planning? Is there room to get it in with the dogbones and linkages by sliding it in...etc. Who knows the best way might be like the engel boats where the whole front end is removed. You will need to experiment to find the best way. The hull looks very sleek but not very big. Some size comparison next to your gato would be great.

[Kazzer]

You need to provide more info to get a proper answer to that question mike...

What is the beam at maximum dia. what is the beam at the deck? What size sub driver are you planning? Is there room to get it in with the dogbones and linkages by sliding it in...etc. Who knows the best way might be like the engel boats where the whole front end is removed. You will need to experiment to find the best way. The hull looks very sleek but not very big. Some size comparison next to your gato would be great.

This is the stuff we need!

America and England, two nations divided by a common language, just wish my company allowed me to drop the US speel checker, "Supervize, Improvize" indeed.

Yes, those words irritate me too! Very sad! :eek:

[Nuke Power]

Great you like the questions but provide no answers. Amazing you lived this long!

[Albion]

looks the dive planes have good access, but rudder hmm


Looking at Tachikaze's M1 the hull cut needs to extend right back in order to reach the rudder.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=400225

Sorry to post another forums (the RC groups loser forum) thread, but if you look here it is a 1/96 Gato hull which is also quite tight at the stern. look at how he arranged the rudder control with silver soldered post. might be whats needed here.

[Nuke Power]

that or a belt driven rudder. Atleast there is only one rudder.

[Tachikaze]

The positioning of the rudder is why the seperation of the hull is set up the way it is. The tiller on the rudder is only slightly longer than 1.0cm. The throw on the servo is about 1.5cm.
I have a similar problem on the Surcouf, not related to the length of the tiller arm, but finding a line on the boat to seperate her and still look good.