Revell 1/72 Skipjack class USS Shark SSN591

[greenman407]

Nice looking boat Bruce. I see that you have paint on yours. Looks Good. I chose to get my boat operational first and work the bugs out first on mine. Now that ,thats done Im trying to get paint on it. I just hope that mine looks as good as yours. Keep us up to date.

[HvyCGN9]

Nice looking boat Bruce. I see that you have paint on yours. Looks Good. I chose to get my boat operational first and work the bugs out first on mine. Now that ,thats done Im trying to get paint on it. I just hope that mine looks as good as yours. Keep us up to date.

Thanks mate! I always paint before getting my models wet...once I am happy with how she runs I will put the decals on and weather her abit. My simple periscope setup seems to work ok, just need to paint tops of scopes and apply a small amount of grease or polish on the tubes so they slide freely.

Can't do any testing tonight got a clubmeeting to run off to shortly...

Cheers Bruce

[HvyCGN9]

Got some testing done today and managed to sort out the slow air leak from the main ballast vent valve. Ended up (after playing around with numerous neutral point settings) taking the valve off adjusting the screw that presses the valve closed and resealing the valve....I think the air was exiting from around the silicon seal on the fwd side that the hinge end of the rubber valve is. Waited a couple of hours for the silicon to cure then did a series of dive tests and it seems to be right now. Now I just need to trim the beast as she sits aft down(with lower rudder on the bottom of the tub).....

Bruce

[HvyCGN9]

Nope disregard previous post... SD still leaks at the vent valve, it works fine for one or two cycles then refuses to maintain a seal. Adjusting the trim has no effect as any further and the air pump kicks in. I have no idea at this point, can't even attempt to trim it properly till I can get it to sorted.

Bruce

PS the ADF2 works great as a failsafe.....just not doing so well as the leveller! its working exactly the opposite of how it should!! (bow of sub angles up and Adf2 gives it more UP! and vice versa) tried reversing servo on tx but no joy

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Would a new vent valve assembly help?

Re-read the ADF set-up instructions. I bet you're pointing the SD the wrong way during the 'orientation' step.

M

[HvyCGN9]

Would a new vent valve assembly help?

Re-read the ADF set-up instructions. I bet you're pointing the SD the wrong way during the 'orientation' step.

M

Thanks Dave,

I will give this vent valve one last fiddle and see how we go. Will do some work on it after dinner and adjust the screw on the arm and check the vent valve casing to see if there is any muck or irregularities causing the leak. Then reattach it and give it 24hours for the silicon to seal.

On the ADF2 issue I have it positioned same spot as everybody else (I think) with red side with writing upwards and followed the instructions....

Bruce

[vital.spark]

Hello Bruce,

I've always mounted my ADF's (4 of them) horizontal on the side of the equiptment trays with the wires heading either backward or forward. I've had some problems with the servo on the stearn plans throught the ADF not getting full movement. I found that the slightest movement of the ADF on the equiptment tray was causing the problem. I had attached the ADF with velcro which could move around a bit so before each sailing I would reajust the ADF on the velcro to give zero bubble!!

Just checking to make sure you trimmed submerged first, than with the tank blown for waterline trim?

regards,

Myron

[HvyCGN9]

Hello Bruce,

I've always mounted my ADF's (4 of them) horizontal on the side of the equiptment trays with the wires heading either backward or forward. I've had some problems with the servo on the stearn plans throught the ADF not getting full movement. I found that the slightest movement of the ADF on the equiptment tray was causing the problem. I had attached the ADF with velcro which could move around a bit so before each sailing I would reajust the ADF on the velcro to give zero bubble!!

Just checking to make sure you trimmed submerged first, than with the tank blown for waterline trim?

regards,

Myron

yep dbleside taped to tray, haven't had a chance to get submerge trim correct yet (it occurs to me that the leak should'nt prevent me from setting up submerged trim.... just can't get it to stay surfaced!)

Cheers Bruce

[greenman407]

Bruce, is the screw that acts on the vent valve in the exact center of the valve or is it off to the side? If its off it wont provide consistent closure. When adjusting that screw, you dont need to worry about siliconing around it till its all dialed in. Even if it leaks around the outside of the perimeter of the valve block, your only interested in the valve itself leaking at this point. You can take it off and make your adjustments and put it on and stick it in the water for a test. You only care about the bubbles coming from the valve center, and you should be able to see that with your eye with the Subdriver in the bathtub, by itself. If its not right take it off and try again, till you get it right. Try drilling it out to the next size bigger, then try it again. Also the male part of the rubber valve must hit exactly in the center of the female part to seal well and continuously. If its not in the center, take it off, reglue it so that its straight and leave some droop in it so that it will naturally open.

[greenman407]

Also, those little blue servos for the ballast, sometimes wont take you to the same place everytime. Perhaps its not sealing consistently every time because the servo has a bad spot right at that point. Try changing it out with an upgrade. Just a few thoughts from a guy thats experienced the same things.

[HvyCGN9]

Thx mate.

I just got in from work, so I shall do some more testing shortly. Indeed the screw does appear a smidge to one side when looking from above, my solution has been to CA a small rectangle of thin styrene to the back of the rubber valve so the screw is pushing on the styrene not the rubber....we shall see if it works (the valve still opens I checked...)

If all else fails I shall SUBcontract sorting her out to Chris "OZTRUCK" Mckay up north....(400km round trip but good to catch up with him! and drop off a present!!)

Bruce

[HvyCGN9]

Got the valve issue sorted out today! And got the submerged trimming done,But there was a fair bit of water in the drive end of the SD, checking it for leaks shortly...

[HvyCGN9]

Shark had first proper pond test today it was a mixed bag....on one hand no water in SD and ran well on surface, on the other hand couldn't achieve PD (pond must be denser water than the bath and I forgot to bring spare ballast!) was bow up when tank fully blown, but the worst thing was when I got home and was cleaning boat noticed bottom rudder is GONE!! must of detached during second run just before I packed up (grub screw was as tight as possible without stripping too.....grrrrr) going back to pond later (hopefully wind will shift around so the layer of scum obscuring surface will move to other side of pond!!

But I didn't have the worst day at the Pond !! Clubmate Jim's Daring class HMAS Vampire and Brenton's River class HMAS Parramatta had an "Incident" resulting in Vampire being rolled over on her side and Vince wading out for recovery!! SEE PIX!!


Shark alongside Long Beach

Shark on surface test run...


HMAS Vampire having some "difficulties"......

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

E-mail me the parts you need along with your mailing address.

dmeriman@aol.com

M

[HvyCGN9]

E-mail me the parts you need along with your mailing address.

dmeriman@aol.com

M

Thanks Dave, standby for incoming SOS (Save our sub....) just heading out to shed to assess whats gone wrong........

Cheers Bruce

PS Vampire has been dried out and all electrics back working....