Revell 1/72 Skipjack class USS Shark SSN591

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Thx mate!

I have spent the afternoon wiring up the main power cables, installed servo's last night....just need to get some fresh double sided tape tomorrow (old stuff ain't sticky on one side....not much use!).

Cheers Bruce

To insure a good stick with the servo tape: scrub the contact surfaces with an abrasive pad soaked in lacquer thinner and wipe dry. The two-sided servo tape will now grab like gang-busters.

M

[HvyCGN9]

Finished assembling the SD, still need to make the linkage for the sailplanes. Got the zero bubble set on the ADf2 but still need to set the failsafe, But was able to do a test of the SD in the test tank last night. First by itself then in the hull....good news no leaks, the BAD NEWS massive stutter in the ESC (Viper20) when any throttle is applied (Fwd or Rev) this causes the Adf2 and ballast servo to have a cow. Gave up for the night and watched TORA TORA TORA... (ANZAC day was on 25th lots of WWII movies on). Just changed ESC's for a Viper 15 out of my Salvage tug...But NO joy same problem!

Any Ideas....

Cheers Bruce

pre testing

In the test tank....bath tub is just big enough...!!

after test inspection

[HvyCGN9]

Having spent about 6 hrs reading the different Skipjack builds to see how people have ballasted the sub, I decided to balance the SD first adding some lead in the battery compartment. I had an idea today while driving around for work... I can attach these wts to the outside of the SD (giving more volume)in the same location or on the lower hull. With the supplied foam and weights the sub sits nice and level once hull floods, I need to sit down and adjust the endpoint on rudder and reset the stern planes (and reverse the pitch servo as the ADF2 is commanding a dive when bow is angled down! oops!!)

Need to adjust trim on ballast servo as she has a slow leak once the SAS pump is switched off....starts going back down!


When ballast tank is flooded it only sinks to a level just above the sail planes, do I need to add more wt?(and goes down stern first) In the cabal report "Trimming a wet hull sub" at the start You say you will be doing a report on ballasting with the Weight and foam kit? Did that ever get written? It would be mighty handy for us first timers!

Cheers Bruce

Bruce

[alad61]

G'day Bruce,

I usually balance the sd to as it makes the rest easier. Having the boat sit with the sail planes just below the water is about right. That way all you need is a little down on the sail planes and just let the forward thrust do the rest. I have my throttle dialed in at 55% which I reckon gives a good scale speed. My boat, also named Shark, must be an Aussie thing, had tendencies to go under bow first but with a couple of extra vent holes just forward of the top rudder and now it settles nicely. Before you reverse your servo double check the adf as it may have been accidentally rotated. Reversing the servo won't make much of a difference if the adf is facing the wrong way. Trust me on this as I had buried the nose of my Robbe Seawolf into the mud that way.

[greenman407]

Bruce, If thats a Caswell ADF2 ,when you set it up according to the instructions, you can orient it anyway that you want when mounting it in the Subdriver. Its the setup that determines the direction the planes move when the bow dips. First things first. If you push the radio stick forward, the stern planes aft edge should drop. If it doesnt , then yes the servo needs to be reversed. If after that the ADF2 moves them the wrong way, then you need to go into the setup mode of the ADF2 again and reset it.

[alad61]

Thats true Mark the adf can be positioned virtually any way on a three way axis. What I should have explained is that once you set the orientation and then the pitch settings you can't reposition the adf as you run the risk of it reading the boats pitch in reverse. So that when the bow points down the adf thinks that it is surfacing so it throws the planes to level the bow down but it is really just diving the boat harder. So reversing the servo in that instance dosn't make any differance.

[HvyCGN9]

Thx Guys,

I might have accidentally reversed the channel when I was changing stuff around in the Tx menu......the MX22 menu is loads different to the 9x Turnigy I use on the surface fleet!!

Back to making up the sailplane linkage and will not be using the magnetic switch I mentioned in an earlier post just yet it as it is the wrong type for what I wanted (when magnet is taken away its off not on)

Cheers Bruce

[greenman407]

Alec, I know that you know that what you know is right. But how did you know that I knew that? ......LOL

[alad61]

Goodo Bruce...

See Mark, I knew, that you knew, that I knew what you knew, so... now I know :)

BTW... Who's on first??

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

What is this, the second reel of Mystery Men????

[HvyCGN9]

I finally got the sailplane linkage made up and functioning (after some trial and error...), just need to do some end point adjustments in the Tx to limit maximum travel. Will do some more Ballast checks/adjustments tomorrow night. Also need to pull rudder planes out so I can grease the prop shaft....

Here are some pix...

made up a couple of guide tubes for the control rod fwd one is some 1/8 styrene tube and aft one is some 5/16 tube sufficient to allow some slack so the aft klick ons engage but prevents the linkage from moving sideways, and "kinking" at the point of contact between the magnets.


the top linkage at SD end (note the SD wiring has got messy since the BEC drama....)


With the scopes on. I am still pondering how to get em ta raise/lower without interfering with SAS float.

Bruce

[redboat219]

Where are the photos?

[HvyCGN9]

Did some more tank testing tonight.... Sailplane linkage connects up nicely during hull closure and moves freely without disconnecting. Having a similar problem to what Tom had with air escaping from SD vent will need to play around with it another night Tx battery is flat again...grrrr (I am thinking tx nimh battery is needing replacement it doesn't seem to last very long),

Adjusted rudder end points so the rudder whitemetal fitting doesn't rub on prop shaft when hard over.....then took it all apart to grease prop shaft!

some pix shortly...

did some plumbing...Added a bit of foam to base of attack scopes(seems to work ok)post test drip drying....

Cheers Bruce

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Here ya go ....

http://www.sub-driver.com/electronics/magnetic-mission-switch-10-amp.html

M

[HvyCGN9]

Here ya go ....

http://www.sub-driver.com/electronics/magnetic-mission-switch-10-amp.html

M

nice !! Will order one when payday rolls around later this week!!

Cheers Bruce