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Nice Job there Peter. A question you asked earlier about a way to reinforce the hulls shape. I like your long bolt Idea. What I did was go by a Plastic supply shop and buy a piece of scrap. I bought 1/8". I cut them up and shaped and fitted them to the Oscar, and then epoxyed them in. Worked great.
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IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY! -
Mark, I have got some ABS sheet at home 1/4" thick, was hoping to use that to brace it and double up as WTC saddles. Was worried that the amount the spring in the lower hull would also bend/warp the ABS. The brass stud arrangement was only a temporary measure until I got it hot, the hull then cools down and theoretically stays in new shape, brass then removed, worked well. I am really grateful that I followed Mr. Merriman's advice as although painful it got me out of a bit of a deep hole . Would be happy of any advice on the saddle /bracing idea and the use of the ABS.
PeterComment
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Oh, I forgot to mention .... that heat-gun nozzel gets hot.
MWho is John Galt?Comment
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No need to mention it....... I probably deserved it. Who'd have thought that the metal nozzle that directs the heat from a heat gun actually got hot. Mental note: Metal is a good conductor of heat.
PeterComment
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A No Brainer. Just figure out where your Subdriver goes front to rear and where within that area your saddles will go. Then evenly spaced additional ones front to rear. A good two part epoxy with a drying time of at least 30 mins. or more(none of that quick stuff). Sand well the hull at the joint as well as the ABS pieces. Position your hull to allow gravity to hold the epoxy in place as it dries to form a 45 degree filet. You know how to do it.(smiley face) what do you do when you just need an emoticon, and you dont have one?IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
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Thanks for the advice Mark, the 2 part stuff I use is the 2 ton Devcon stuff used it for years, brilliant stuff, drying time is ages. I am hoping to use a Sub driver of some description but need to do my homework on the shop page. Really like the idea of snort system but my very limited knowledge leads me to believe that the inlet goes in the sail and the sail is quite small on the Akula, the inside certainly is....?....
PeterComment
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You mean the SAS? And you can mount the snorkel induction head-valve just about anywhere, such as how I did it on this 1/72 THRESHER model -- there was no room in the sail so I mounted the horizontal type unit into the upper hull. Works fine.
MWho is John Galt?Comment
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Yes, The SAS that's the one. It's not like I should of known the name, it's not like it is at the top of every page in the forum......... Oh wait a minute.......it is! I like being the resident Idiot, I find it comes naturally. Off to do the homework.
PeterComment
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If you want some saddles that will remain very strong and help keep the hull in shape, then use epoxy glass sheet.
3 or 4mm thick sheet will be incredibly rigid and strong, Also because it's essentially the same substrate as the hull it will form a very strong bond with epoxy glue.
You can lay up your own sheet from cloth and resin or buy G10 epoxy glass sheet. The latter is stronger than you need to be honest, as it's laid up from multiple thin glass layers to form an extremely tough composite.Comment
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Having taken a bit of a break from submarines for the last 3 years or so, I have not been keeping an eye on the forums and have missed this tread till today. Anyways, it looks like your Akula is coming along swimmingly, and you have successfully got past the tricky bits!
RameshComment
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Ramesh,
Hello, yep getting there, apart from burning myself. I have your underwater video to motivate me. When I get it done I must try and get to a Dive in event.
PeterComment
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Recent events have slowed me down....again but I have made some more progress I am pretty sure that all the brass is now finished, by that I mean filled and everything. I may do little bit more gluing from the inside of hull but they are finished apart from that.
Today I decided to grow a pair and tackle the upper hull cut. This, due to never having had to do this before had worried me a little to the point of prevarication. However in the event it was a bit of an anti-climax. I made a pencil guide to make the marking out a simple matter then with my narrowest kerfed razor saw hack, hack and it came out well. I then allowed myself a picture of how the stern would sort of look with upper rudder and stern planes before typing this missive.
Rudimentry marking set up
all cut up
Indulgence
Note the addition the hole at the back of the rudder pod, I think it looks better than not being there.
PeterComment
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You are doing a great kit a very good service. An enjoyable WIP, Pete. Keep it up.
And a reminder (likely I should not have to say this, as I think you already appreciate the reason why): after you have made the hull surfaces ready for that first coat of primer, insure that you pickle all exposed metal surfaces first. This to insure a good grab between metal and primer. Failure to get tooth on those areas will result in primer-paint shrugging off those areas the first hot July day you encounter.
MWho is John Galt?Comment
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Glad you are enjoying it Dave.
Less a reminder moreover a lesson required really I know I was going to need some form etch primer but have no experience of them whatsoever. Any info would be gratefully received. I also have 2 questions. 1 mainly to Andy regarding G10, I have looked but am not sure where to go to get it. 2, this question is mainly, but not exclusively, to all Scaleships sub builders. How did you all fix the moveable rudder and planes parts to their integral rods? Glue and forget? or removable?
PeterComment
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G10
A good brand of single part etch primer in the UK is Upol. You can buy it in aerosol form in Halfords. You can can get in a tin for spraying yourself on ebay or at car paint suppliers.Comment
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