Skipjack 1/72

[greenman407]

Thanks Alec, I didnt know that you were down under. I notice your Avatar is a Seaview. Do you have one?

[alad61]

Thanks Alec, I didnt know that you were down under. I notice your Avatar is a Seaview. Do you have one?

No worries mate. The avatar is taken from my static build of the Moebius kit. It is fully lighted with LEDs including the flying sub and diving bell. It took a couple of months to assemble all together. The FS1 interior is a pe set from paragrafx and was featured in the 2009 Sci-Fi Fantasy modeller magazine. At that stage Paul hadn't released his pe set for the Seaview so all the limber holes were cut out over a two period and a length of curved card was inserted to keep the light leaks back and represent the pressure hull. I painted it is a little bluer than it should be only because I took some artistic licence to represent a chromatic reflection from being in the briney blue.


I did have another that was converted from the Moebius model with David's fitting kit and sd. However I reckon that boat was cursed by all the gods. The thing I found the most notable with it was that it was a boat that needed all your attention and more to drive especially as a first rc sub. Live and learn as they say.

[greenman407]

Thats interesting Alec. Ive never built the Moebius model. My Seaview is a bit larger and is supplied by Rick Teskey of Canada. Its as docile as a Kitten to operate. If youve noticed my build on it youll note that its almost ready to go back in the water with some new mods.

[greenman407]

Today I scrubbed down the sail with 220 sandpaper, followed by 320. All holes and imperfections feathered out, I then washed it with soap and water. Air dried it and then a nice application of denatured alcohol. Finally I went over it with a tack rag. Then I sprayed her down with Krylon smoke grey. Pictures tomorrow. The lower hull will be Rustoleum Colonial red, a dark red that lightens up nicely when you hit it with flat clear. The upper hull will be gloss black, again tempered with clear flat. Cant forget about the orange buoy hatches. For those Im using "Ace Premium gloss orange, should be good.

[greenman407]

A Rainy day, all day. So I couldnt paint. So I spent some of the day sanding and blending the joints on the Scamper. You know, the joints where I put on too much. Well, actually, I put on too much in some areas because of misalignment of the joints slightly when glueing things together. In order to fix it ,you have to blend it in ,over a wider area. SO THERE! Fortunately its Evercoat Easy Sand, not armour plate. It comes off pretty easy. Still waiting on Seaview parts. If they had come in, I wouldnt be doing this now.

[greenman407]

When installing the clear windows in the sail, what adhesive should be used? Airplane glue, plastic weld, and Ca can all mar the clear surface of the windows or cloud them. What is suggested?
Perhaps this clear glue in very small quantitys on a couple of corners. What are your suggestions? What have you done that has worked?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I glue them in before assembling the two sail halves (sometimes). Place a lens in place and smear on (from the outside) water-thin solvent cement letting run on and around the lens, insuring saturation of the bonding edges of lens and lens hole. Leave to dry then sand and polish clear inside and out. Assemble hull halves and move on.

M

[greenman407]

Too late now, my sail haves are together. Can you give me an example of water-thin solvent cement? The plastic weld that I have is very water thin. Would that work for next time. Also, how do you polish the windows, using what product. Questions.....Questions

[roedj]

Too late now, my sail haves are together. Can you give me an example of water-thin solvent cement? The plastic weld that I have is very water thin. Would that work for next time. Also, how do you polish the windows, using what product. Questions.....Questions

It's called canopy glue - used for cementing clear airplane canopies (well, duh...). Most LHS's of any size will have it.

Dan

[greenman407]

Never heard of it. Im going to Phils Hobby Shop on Wednesday. Ill ask about it.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

http://www.amazon.com/G-S-Hypo-Cement-X001/dp/B000YQDX86

Also, look for, 'bezel cement' Jeweler's use it.

M

[greenman407]

Thanks. Before I can paint the upper and lower hulls, I need to fill some gaps. Gaps at the rear next to the retainer screw, and at the Z cut where the upper mates up at the lower. Also where the cohesive seeped past where I wanted it to and bonded the upper to the lower. At that point I used a Dremel wheel to cut them apart. Rest assured, and be assured, youll never be able to tell, once the Evercoat and the sanding block gets after it. Just takes a little time. I dont like to rush it cus Ill mess it up, and then Ill have to do it over.

My painten finger is gettin itchy though.

[greenman407]

Got a little done today on the Gaps, also the sail was sprayed "Lusterless clear".Krylon Smoke Grey with lusterless overcoat.

[greenman407]

I decided to try the glue that I already had and using a toothpick I applied a little bit to two sides of the window sill on the sail, then put in the glass. Looks good. We should have some paint on the hull on Sunday.

[greenman407]

BEWARE! When selecting your rattlecan paints, keep in mind that just because a base color says, for instance, "Krylon", that doesnt mean that any "Krylon" clear will work on top of it. Make sure that the can labels are absolutely identical. Then and only then do some of your own testing, like take a piece of scrap and paint first the base color, and then after at least 48 hrs.,hit it with the clear. Ive had some wild crazing and cracking go on ,in the paint. Then youd have to sand it all down and start over again. Note several examples. In these pictures, these clears are NOT compatable with these base colors, even though its the same brand. Save yourself a lot of work and always test first.