I pulled the tape off this morning. Ill need to get a washcloth and some soap to remove some of the tape residue. Ive been experimenting with different spray clears. Ive pretty much decided to go with clear satin to dampen the gloss. Clear Matte is too extreme. As soon as the paint is dry enough to work with, Ill be taping off the hatches and spraying them with Orange that the clear will reduce down to international orange or thereabouts.
Skipjack 1/72
Collapse
X
-
-
So far , so good trout. As you know the paint was never the problem,..........it was the "Blankety....Blank#*<":@^** body filler or something that kept bubbling up until my disgust was high enough to "Banish" the sub from my sight to a "Penal" colony, until I could stand to look at it again. Ive NEVER had such problems before. At anyrate......Ill see if I can muddle thru the rest of it.Last edited by greenman407; 10-27-2015, 09:58 PM.IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
-
IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
-
The Escape Buoy hatches were not the easiest part of this paint job for sure. I got a hold of some 1/16" masking tape and started forming it around the perimeter of the hatches. After numerous attempts, I developed a technique that worked out pretty well. Then I went back over them with a floss thingy end and burnished the tape down better. I selected the smallest airbrush tip that I had, sprayed out some Orange paint into a cup. Then I transferred that to the airbrush. It didn't take long.
The next day I removed the tape. Came out pretty well. As far as the Main Ballast Tank vents were concerned, Dave had suggested using some metal foil for modelers. I ordered it but after about 15 minutes, I ran out of patience.......I'm ashamed to say. I have since resorted to hand painting them. Using a tiny tipped brush, some close vision goggles and holding my breath to give as smooth a stroke as I could muster, I carefully put down some aluminum paint on them. They are drying at the moment. Ill need to go back with some black and touch up a few places but I think that it will be quite acceptable.
IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
-
-
Yep.......you definitely have it down pat. Too bad you live so Dern far away. I found a new color by Rustoleum. Its called "Anodized Bronze". I like it. Its closer to the color that I am looking for than "Coffee".
IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
-
So today I was able to get some clear Flat on it. Tomorrow Im going to re-attach the snorkle valve, charge the battery and get it in the NEW kiddie pool for a float test. The OLD kiddie pool wasnt deep enough. This one is 10" deep to help me with submerged trim.IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
-
I didnt quite make it into the water today but I got a lot done. Sail remounted(took me an hour to find the screws). Snorkle remounted(took an hour to find the screws) Mounted the prop, using two set screws and one of the screws I drilled down into the shaft for good positive engagement. Dont forget the blue locktight.
Last edited by greenman407; 10-25-2015, 08:03 PM.IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
-
-
Thanks Gents..................and I use the term...............loosely. LOL! Not only is it Puuurty TOM, its also got a whole lot more Horse Power. I put quite a bit more weight in the bottom and corresponding foam in the top to compensate, trying to keep torque roll manageable. Gotta ease into the throttle on this one.IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
-
I'm just getting started with the Skipjack in 1/72 scale. I've never made an rc sub though I did sail on a real boomer. I'm only going to use the basic operational kit, no ballast tanks or torpedoes, should I paint the model before or after completion, and are the holes in the bow still needed?
Comment
Comment