Manfred, with your initial plan of activating the lpb with a mechanical switch, those micro pumps are only rated to around 3V, how were you going to power the pump?
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Romel,
I've used in the past two ways, one is, tie it into the 4,8 volt from the BEC, second is, use a resistor into the circuit of the LPB motor, for 12V it will be around 11 Ohm, for 6 V around 5 Ohm, this wil limit the voltage.
Manfred.
PS: Did a checkup on my stock, all those LPB's are rated 6V, not really sure why you have the 3V variant.Last edited by MFR1964; 05-07-2026, 07:42 AM.I went undergroundComment
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Same for me Bob, have them inside the V80, running them on 12V also, the one venting the ballasttank has a 11 Ohm resistor inline, this one has to work longer for venting the ballasttank, the other is used for the peroscopes, only short bursts needed.
Manfred.I went undergroundComment
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Some more work on the SD, i did counter a problem,
In this configuration i started with testing, everything worked, but the motor wasn't spinning at full speed, at the end i found out it was a 12V motor instead of a 6V motor.
Had to breakdown the complete configuration, found a 6V motor and glued it low tech on the bulkhead, if needed it can be replaced by braking the glue joint.
The new build-up with the 6V motor, added the steering rods and shimmed the shaft of the motor to 4 mm (using a 4 mm lipseal)
Since i use 1,5 mm rods, i had to alter the standard seals for the shafts, by drilling a slightly smaller hole you compress the O rings, after that you glue them down, giving you a good seal on the steeringshafts, did this trick some time ago on the type XXIII SD, still working without problems.
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In general the SD is ready to be tested in the pool, let's see if she is watertight, if not, fix those leaks, got the box with the kilo out of the storage facility, i guess at least a decade ago got me this kit from Caswell and with a fittings kit from David.
Last step in the proces getting me a SD for the Kilo, decided to go with a servo in the frontpart for steering the front diveplanes.
Added the tubes for the antennawire and tested the SD using every function on dry land, no gremlins onboard sofar, adding the O rings will make her ready for the plunge into the test pool, curious to see if i've got leaks.
Box is opened with the content inside, made a search to see if i got me all parts.
Those are the parts from the fitting kit from David, hoped there was also a kit for all the stuff at the conningtower, bummer, not present, have to make those items myself in the future, from what i've read during research the kit parts are totally offscale, so, some lathe work for the future.
This boat will be build as basic as possible, want to use her during events, so other people can drive her, hoping to infect more to join the tribe.
Manfred.I went undergroundComment
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SD tested in the pool, 2 minor leaks, one near the vent and another by one of the inner bulkheads, for now she's approved, started working on the hull parts,
Upperhull is one piece, the lower consist of two pieces, applied glue and taped her together for curing, taping her this way gets the shape of all parts right, lesser seems is better.
Same story on the conningtower, made allready some parts for the scopes and other stuff i have to make.
Those two cradles will hold the SD, prepped them to glue them inside the hull.
Once glued with 2K epoxy held the hull together with some elastick bands, yet again less seems is better.
Just for fun i've made the stand which was inside the box, have to make in the future a more robust one for daily use.
Once everything is dry i can add the cradles in the upper part, and start thinking about opening those timy floodholes on the upperpart.
Manfred.
I went undergroundComment
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Damn you, Manfred. Now you've motivated me to assemble another one of these remarkable little kits!SD tested in the pool, 2 minor leaks, one near the vent and another by one of the inner bulkheads, for now she's approved, started working on the hull parts,
Upperhull is one piece, the lower consist of two pieces, applied glue and taped her together for curing, taping her this way gets the shape of all parts right, lesser seems is better.
Same story on the conningtower, made allready some parts for the scopes and other stuff i have to make.
Those two cradles will hold the SD, prepped them to glue them inside the hull.
Once glued with 2K epoxy held the hull together with some elastick bands, yet again less seems is better.
Just for fun i've made the stand which was inside the box, have to make in the future a more robust one for daily use.
Once everything is dry i can add the cradles in the upper part, and start thinking about opening those timy floodholes on the upperpart.
Manfred.
David
Who is John Galt?Comment
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David. she's a nice little submarine, just build out of the box a good submarine to start with, hope to infect more people by letting them drive her, i will build her as simple as possible without extra gizmo's, believe me, my fingers are itching to add more things, but the main goal stays a good driveable rc sub.
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