A concept-design, the V60

[MFR1964]

This was a bit of a effort, two times sprayputty, two times primer, and a lot of sanding, only advantage was, i could spray the putty in one attempt, sanded everything off and another layer of putty in one attempt, getting the primer on was a piece of cake,


Those are the parts sanded and primed, ready to be snapped together.


Once together you get the idea, those holes on top are made to vent the boat.


The top part covers up the ventholes.


Made a paper mold to get some more ventholes near the base of the strange extension, i presume it's a kind of peroscope protector.


Filled up the top part with some resin, just on the places where i don't want water or air.


Got the shaft in, adjusted the length and placed the connection to the drive shaft of the SD.



Used the laser to get me a straight waterline, placed smal markers with pencil which i can follow up with the maskingtape



Overall view of the complete hull complete with the rearpart with stabilising fins, attached the rudder and dive plane with some pins




Signed off the ventholes near the keel, just holes would be enough but took the extra effort to go a bit scale, no idea how this should work in real live.


Made a simple copper jigg to ease the work on the ventholes, once this is done i can think about masking up and final paint.

Manfred.

[Das Boot]

Very unusual.

[MFR1964]

Thanks,
Yes a strange design, hydrodynamic design years ahead for it's time, the V80 i have is from the same designer Walter Helmuth, it ran submerged 29 knts in 1939, i guess he designed the boat around the engine he invented, taking certain chemicals which give combined heat, with that heat steam was made to run the turbine, this process did not need any oxygen, this was derived from the chemical process, only drawback was, those chemicals used where needed in big quantities running the boat, giving it a limited range.
With the invention of the nuclear propulsion it became obsolete, in a way they still use the system on the 212, H2O is stored around the hull, they convert the H2O in electricity charging the batteries, this process doesn't need oxygen, better, the rest product is water and oxygen which can be used to stay longer submerged.

Manfred.

[JHapprich]

Manfred, it's Helmut Walther!

[MFR1964]

Oeps, my mistake, you're correct

Manfred.

[MFR1964]

Found a way to correct my mistake on filling up the wrong stabilisor, gave the boat the final paintscheme,


Since i had filled up the wrong stabilisor for steering the diveplanes i had to make a solution to sort this, ended up with a small switch which gives you a choice wether you need to switch the functions of the rudder and diveplane servo by reversing them, that is rudder becomes diveplane servo and visa versa.
Tested this solution and it works well without any problems using the ADF2, so now i have a choice between the V60 and Ko Hyoteki configuration by flipping the switch to the right position.


Since there is no room for a snorkelfloat inside the V60 i opted to alter the SD to snort only, i do have to make some changes to the Ko Hyoteki to accept this SD in this configuration, but that can be done at a later time.


First stage in painting the final coulors, first taped off everything at the desired waterline, gave all parts two coats of paint.


Removed the tape while the paint was still green.


After drying I snapped the boat together for the final stage of painting.


Gave her the same camouflage scheme as the V80


Fastened the toppart and continued with the same scheme,
For now she has to cure a few days before i can start thinking about connecting the rudder and diveplanes.


Manfred.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Beautiful and quick work on that Walther boat, Manfred. Excellent paint work on display here as well. Should be a rocket under the waves.

[MFR1964]

It will take a few months before i can run her, but the fact it's a printed hull takes down the buildingtime by a few months, not the hassle of building a mold, as being fast under water, my V80 runs max at 14 km/u, she must be capable to run the same speed, if not, i allways can convert the SD to brushless.

Manfred.

[MFR1964]

Made the connections to the rudder and dive-plane, did some work on a automatic connection to the snorkel mast.



At first i made these, magnetic couplers with some thread for adjustment.





This was the tricky bit, getting the rods connected, there is not that much room, i tried to keep it simple.



The situation inside the rearpart, made the first bent with the rods.



Marked up the positions of the magnetic couplers and made the final bent to the connectors on the SD


First i sleeved the tube from the snorkel, it was 3mm and i needed 4 mm.



Made a connection tube at the front where the SD will end, it will clarify later on.



Made a connector with a 4mm lipseal, this is done to make a direct connection to the snorkelmast, connected this with a small silicon hose to the forward tube.


This is all made to do this, inserting the snorkel connection of the SD into the forward tube.


It's the same connection as used with the Ko Hyoteki, now i have to attack the rearpods for covering the steering of the diveplanes and rudder, luckely i have my V80 as a example to copy.

Manfred.

[MFR1964]

Free days are over, flipped the lightswitch on inside the Cave and did some work,


First i cutted some foam for inside the rear-end of the V60, i know from the V80 that has a weight issue, for now those four pieces.


When you need foam you also need lead, those pieces will counteract the upperstructure and add some stability, used flat-lead to keep things simple.


Made two threaded studs on the lower part for rigging up the lead, pretty much the same way i did on the type XXIII.


Test fitting the flat-lead, on the end it will be secured by some M3 nuts.


Crammed in the four blocks of foam, i hope it will be enough, if not then i need to find some more space inside.


Started with the cover up of the steering, re-drawn from the V80 and altered the shape for the V60, those will be glued down at the stabilisor fins, from that i can place the foam which will give me the shape i'm after.

Manfred.

[MFR1964]

It has been busy in the Cave, finished the fairings on the V60, for now she is ready to be trimmed.



Test fitting the base for the top fairing, had to make some room for the upper steeringrod, by taking out a notch it can move freely



All three bases glued down, time to get some foam on them.



First stage with glueing the foam, after drying i cutted it roughly to shape.



Cutting them to the initial shape, the last pass will be done with a sandingblock to get the final curved shape.



Covered the foam with some aluminum sticky tape.



First i gave it a good spray of primer, so you can see if you need to correct things.



Final coat of paint, they turned out nice, shape is a bit different as on the V80.



Fastened the lead strips with some M3 nuts, if needed i can add some or remove them during the trimmingsession.



Since i know from the V80 the rear tends to be heavy i glued down some extra foam near the waterline on the second rearpart of the hull.



For now she stands like this, ready to be trimmed, when done i can think about the maiden.



SD is charging and ready to be used for the trimming session.


Manfred.

[MFR1964]

When working with the V60 i found out that putting the boat together and yet opening her up for switching her on, was getting a bit annoying, so i decided to make me a hatch on one side for easy access on the powerswitch



Place of the hatch determent and cutted into the hull, a bit rough at first, it will become better.





You can push the hatch open and by using your pinky finger you can reach for the powerswitch.



The first cut was a bit rough, so i cleaned it up with some aluminum tape and bakingsoda for adressing the size of the hatch





If you push at the bottom of the hatch it will open up, closing happens by pushing at the top of the hatch, it's a friction fit, if it get's floppy in the future i have to build something with a spring inside to keep it shut.


Manfred.

[JHapprich]

Thats rather cool, Manfred!

Are you using a Raboesch prop with a further grub screw to secure it in place?

Jörg

[MFR1964]

Jorg,

The hatch was a make shift solution, taking off the frontpart each time was becoming annoying to me, and not so practical when on the shore before launching her into the water.
Yup, a Raboesch prop with a grubscrew for securing her.
Next step will be trimming her in the bath, or wait to next spring when i have the testpool build up outside.

Manfred.

[JHapprich]

Thank you, Manfred. So you have got better experience with using a grub screw instead of using a counter-nut behind the prop, or is it for the esthetics only?

Jörg