GATO! (It has begun)

[trout]

Maybe I missed something, but you are not holding the deans connector in you fingers right? You are using a third hand or tweezers to hold it. Pretty much what I have done is what Andy and David have shared. Cleaning the tip of your soldering iron on a damp sponge will help keep crusties off and allow better transfer of heat. I will apologize in advance if you already know this.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

OK, Andy and me have had our fun. Sounds like you have contaminated multi-wire conductor -- I've had this happen with old servo leads: you strip the insulator and find the copper wires (was it copper?) are dark and crummy looking. I, for the life of me, could not get the solder to flow onto that conductor. Sounds like sour wires with you too, Matt, as you're having trouble tinning it. Try (duh!) different conductor material.

60 Watt's is over-kill, so it's not a heat issue as I suggested above.

Me so sorry!

M

[matthewnimmo]

Im certain its my ****ty skills, but what was driving me batty was i did pre-tin the connector and the wires (like i did the first side of the connector that went together rather smooth. The second side two hours later and still not together. The end of my iron is pretty dark but still gets everything hot. My wire bunch has crappy looking sodder on it (which looks a little burnt ... Probably due to the rosin). I know im getting everything nice and hot as i have a burnt thumb to prove it. Just wondering if im missing something? Do i need to cut the wires and try again?

[Subculture]

You need to improve your soldering chops then.

What I do is pre-tin the connector with a blob of solder. Pre-tin the wire, then sweat the two together. You can add a bit of extra flux if you want, but isn't usually necessary.

[matthewnimmo]

Im using 60 watt iron. And my solder has a rosin core and it is still a *****

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Sodering to the f*cking red dean's is a myth .... i managed to get one end done but i cannot for the f*ing life of me get the damn soder to stick to the other end of the dean connector ... filed the PoS, washed it, talked nice to it......nothing but burnt fingers/ a crabby wife/and 2 hours lost.

tempted to try some other connectors besides those unless someone has a suggestion.

What a puss! Not enough heat.

M

[Subculture]

I use deans connectors for all my battery connectors, bar the very tiniest models, excellent. Never used anything other than multicore solder, occasionally an extra dab of rosin flux to help wet the joint. The key is you need a decent soldering iron, minimum 40 watt (a good 40 watts at that), else the connector draws the heat too quickly.

I have never felt the need to use acid fluxes on electrical wiring, I save that for the brasswork.

[Albion]

Good point, are you using paste flux or acid?

Acid is only way to go, but be sure to clean after.

[redboat219]

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/ima...lder_deans.WMV

Trick is flux.

[matthewnimmo]

Sodering to the f*cking red dean's is a myth .... i managed to get one end done but i cannot for the f*ing life of me get the damn soder to stick to the other end of the dean connector ... filed the PoS, washed it, talked nice to it......nothing but burnt fingers/ a crabby wife/and 2 hours lost.

tempted to try some other connectors besides those unless someone has a suggestion.

[trout]

Kind of like this.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Ok, so is this diagram correct then? The red sections are the Red Dean connectors
[ATTACH=CONFIG]26499[/ATTACH]

1) Any type of fuse work?
2) Are you soldering directly to the switch? Can't really tell from the pictures you have (the pics are great, but i can't see the arrangement behind the cap)

Thanks again,

1. 15 Ampere's, slow-blow type

2. You got the switch connections wrong. Run the black wire from the battery, through the Dean's connector to the center pole of the switch. Run another length of wire from one of the two poles either side of the switch body, then through the strain-relief block, to the fuse holder (if used), then down through the conduit tube. Run the red wire from the battery, through the Dean's connector, through the strain-relief block, then down the conduit tube. The way you have it in your drawing, you're paralleling across the switch terminals -- the switch will not work

M

[Scott T]

(neg)Black wire from battery to switch pole(center tab).
Then black wire from switch pole (side tab) too input side of fuse block.
Black wire from output side of fuse block too (-) BEC.
(pos) Red battery wire too (+)BEC.
I think that's right? Isn't the electron flow going negative to Positive? So the fuse should be in the negative lead?


Scott T

[trout]

Very close. The fuse should be attached between the battery and the switch on the positive side. As I look at it, that should work. Here is a drawing David made a while back, I modified to show fuse in.

This drawing is not correct for the BEC. You will not be using the BEC from the ESC. So the RX connector from the ESC to the receiver, will need the red cable to be removed or cut. The dedicated BEC, that you have, will need to get tied in.

[matthewnimmo]

Ok, so is this diagram correct then? The red sections are the Red Dean connectors


1) Any type of fuse work?
2) Are you soldering directly to the switch? Can't really tell from the pictures you have (the pics are great, but i can't see the arrangement behind the cap)

Thanks again,