GATO! (It has begun)

[crazygary]

Maybe too much weight???
Always a possibility!

CG

[matthewnimmo]

Ok, so i guess i might have fried my pump then. The green light on the pump lights up when i try to activate it but no noise from it. I have a full battery still and the battery pack used are the ones that came with the electronics gato kit from subdriver (i hope that answers the questions some of you had). Now i hant tried my pump again this morning. I figured i would let it rest for 8 hours and see but more than likely its a dead pump now. But how did i blow my pump? If i have to get a new one what are some things that i need not to do again when using the pump? I honestly didnt think i had it engaged that long

also, so the sub is never suppose to take on so much water that it drops to the bottom correct? If that happens then even my pump wont save me yes? As that was the last time i tried using the pump and she never would gain back her buoyancy

lastly, i know that im suppose to put weight as needed but the weight and foam kit provided seemed like it had all the weights planned for a specific location are either of these approaches correct with the weight placements from the kit?

1) wieghts back to back?
2) weights separated but still in order by number

[trout]

To add to the two prior posts - even though this was mentioned, I wanted to emphasize this, trim submerged first. Get her level submerged. I made my sub with approximately a quarter of the sail above water (Granted it is a gas system - not sure if the ballast tank volumes changed, if not, it does not matter). I like it lower in the water so less forward motion was needed to get her to submerge. Strap the foam on with rubber bands (one more reason not to put on a ton of details on the sub). I strapped foam on the sides for the bulk of the trim and on the deck when fine tuning. I strap weight on the bottom. Then blow the ballast tank and see how the sub sits. If it sits low in the water, then adjust that foam, it needs to be below the waterline (just below) and if the sub is fine on the surface then that foam needs to be mounted just above the waterline (you can see why it is important to know where your waterline is). Then try the whole thing over once you installed the first round of foam or weight. If it lists when on the surface one time and then next time you test it lists on the other side, make sure that your battery is not the cause. Make a form, shelf, or something that you will know the battery will be in the same position each time and not shift around. If it still lists more weight and more foam or slightly move weight off center towards the high side or more foam on the low side. In my mind I was building a stronger tension between the foam and weights making the above water structure less of a factor.. You will also notice as your trimming, it take less weight and less foam the more you slide it to to bow or aft end to effect trim submerged.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Just to add to Alec's very thorough discussion:

Are you running with a 7.4 or 11.1-volt pack? The LPB motor is wound for 7-volts so I equipped the MPC input power lead with an 11-Ohm resistor to drop the voltage a bit so the motor does not get hot. If you are using a 7.4-volt pack, then only about 3-volts is getting to the motor and it will stall easily.

One correction to Alec's methodology: Never invert the submerged SAS equipped SD (in this case, to flood the ballast tank without use of the r/c system) as this will unseat both the float activated snorkel head-valve and safety float-valve, and water will pour into your battery space. Use the r/c system when venting and blowing the ballast sub-system.

Boat looks great, Matt. Keep at it.

M

[alad61]

Hi Mathew.

Firstly get the boat trimmed with out the pump or power. Just simply roll the boat to flood the tank and lift it out to drain it. That way you save on batteries and the risk of having the radio to near the waters edge.


re - 1 the pump issues...How much battery power did you have when it was just the light? The fact that you have the green light means that there is some power getting to the board but maybe not enough to spin the pump. If you are trying to get the boat up to waterline with a too heavy hull, refer No 4, then you will be running the pump flat out trying to pull air in from the limited space within the sd and thus creating a vacuum which could explain the water in the battery compartment, refer No 5, and if you keep running the pump like that then you may well run the risk of a motor or board burnout. My advice is to get the boat to a submerged trim level where the sails gun decks are just awash and then blow the ballast and see what happens. Don't worry that it wo'nt submerge with half the main body of the conning tower above the water. Those two props will easily push her under the waves

Re - 2 & 3 Having trimmed two of these boats I can testify that the model does have an annoying tendancy to list. Keep as much weight at the center of gravity as you can. I reckon the conning tower changes whats called the meta-centric balance, so make sure that the weight you start with is at least equal to the overall weight of the sail and deck section. Then slowly add extra weight as need before adding any forward and aft, also remembering that too much weight forward or aft of your cog makes running the boat a little harder in turns and such. As for the foam it should be at the water line level. David has a very good rule of thumb with keep the lead low and the foam high. Any foam above the water line won't do anything except help or hinder your submerged trim. I have about 2 cubic inches of foam in mine under the deck just aft of the rear ballast bulk head for getting a level trim with a full ballast tank.

Re - 4 When the boat is submerging either sticaly or under power it's referred to as decks awash. Oh and for your survival around David a boat broaches the water it never breaches. Ask me how I know this...?? It certainly dosn't help with trimming if your weights aren't fixed and they shift about. Remember the center of gravity and listing thing!! if you are worried about fixing your weights dow the use things like blu-tac to hold them in. this boat is hard enough to trim with out adding to your woes. as for the sinking rock thing. Just add more foam. Be wartned that you will need many hours getting the submerged and surface trim right. As you have the weight and foam kit then your half way there you just need to tweek it some more...

[alad61]

Ahh I see my post was a couple of minute late LOL

[alad61]

Well I will be honest and say that the rust on the bottom hull came out better than I thought.

Good luck with the pool test. Don't forget a post mission report.

[matthewnimmo]

So, questions after this initial run.

1). I think my pump might be deAd? My last run i was trying to pump out enough of the water to gain back my positive buoyancy (never did happen) and i was hearing the thing start to putter out. I quickly stopped and got it out of the water but all i see when i engage the 'blow' is the green light on the pump but no pumping:(. Is it maybe just overheated? Or is it gameover for it?

2). Next, for a while i noticed the stupid thing leaning from side to side. Then i realized i should try the weights. After the weights its almost perfect. Still leans some to the right (keep in mind i havnt glued anything in yet)


3). So not quite sure were to exactly place my foam. I think im suppose to place it slightly below the waterline on the sides? I have more in the center and aft. None in the bow so far


4). So when i issue the flood balast tank. It slowly goes down which is nice. But right as the deck is breached by water the entire sub sinks all the way (now this isnt with diving actions or anything with movement just static). Is that normal? Or is something off? Thought this thing should never hit rock bottom with buoyancy?

5). So when i was done. I did notice some water in the battery part of the wtc. So ill have to figure out were im leaking there. The aft end seemed nice and dry

any help from anyone?

[matthewnimmo]

So, I realized that I never showed any pics of her underbelly. The rust really showed up well IMO (or at least perfect for what i was wanting).


Smaller details taken care of. Brassed the small horn in the front and the bell in the back (I realized shortly after these pictures were taken that i forgot to remove the last piece of masking tape on the back light lol)


Now, let me show you what I did with the cylinder magnets. I was pleased with the disk magnets that I purchased earlier; but I wanted a stronger hold when it came to hooking up the current to my upper hull for the lights. This works out very well (later that night i coated the magnets with RTV for better hold).


Tonight, I get her wet! I hope she doesn't sink like a rock the minute i put her into the pool. I'll bring my weights and foam kit that i purchased from Sub-driver.com along with me. Along with some rubber bands, hobby knife, and various tools for adjustments (plus some swim trunks and a towel).



Tomorrow, I plan on putting together its travel box (yes tonight i'm taking the risk of it moving; but the pool is very close to my house ...so i'll secure it nice and tight in the SUV). I'm just hoping the 24hr gym lets me use the pool for my sub at midnight lol.


Enjoy!

[crazygary]

Watch ye don't be toastin' yer fangers!!!!
CG

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

CA breaks down in heat.

Take the shaft out of the model, put a pointed flame to the shaft, about three or four inches ahead of the hub. Eventually the heat is conducted through the shaft to the CA bond, which fails, and you slip off the propeller without damage or hurt feelings.

M

[alad61]

Sadly I have done similar though I use acetone, not the nail polish variety which i simply wicked via ann old paint brusharound the shaft and prop hub. to get the prop off the shaft once the ca is softened I placed the shaft in a timber block that is drilled to the shaft diameter then with the prop sitt I gently tap out the shaft with a small pin punch or brass rod. Than simply swish the extracted shaft in the acetone and clean with a fine green scouring pad.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Don't sweat it, Matt. It'll work fine. Looks like hell, but will work fine. Gary has the simple fix if you're a slave to aesthetics.

M

[crazygary]

I have a CA de-bonding liquid that works really well!
It does warn that it "may craze some plastics", but you can try it on a piece of scrap, first!

It's made by "Zap", and called "Z-7 Debonder". Great for "adjusting" things made of white metal,
but I haven't tried it on anything plastic yet! Softens the CA back to a "gel-like" state!

Just a possibility!!

CG

[matthewnimmo]

I was an idiot when i put that first one one with the CA. Got too much on it and thats were it stopped lol. I just need to know if im going to really notice the difference of what seems to be less than an 1/8" difference in placement of the props. Im hoping not. As if i have to take that out it wouldnt be the end of the world but probably an hours worth of work (knowing that things wont go my way lol). So, if i should be ok with it as it is. I wont waste my time trying to gain back that extra spacing