GATO! (It has begun)

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Initial trim; the establishment of amounts and location of fixed lead ballast and buoyant foam:

    1. Establish submerged trim. With the SD's vent valve open (recommend the SD power switch be off, you wont' be doing anything with the SD other than permitting its ballast tank to flood) place the maximum amount of fixed ballast weight as low as possible in the hull that the maximum amount of foam (as high as possible without topping over the designed waterline) will permit with the boat assuming neutral trim.

    2. Establish surface trim. With the SD's vent valve shut (again, the SD's power switch off, and the ballast tank dry) observe the relationship between where the model actually floats and the designed waterline -- the boat should have too high a freeboard (vertical distance between deck and waterline). Move foam vertically (above the designed waterline) till the boats designed waterline falls along the plane of the actual waterline.

    Done.

    Leave me alone!

    (nice box, by the way).

    M

    Leave a comment:


  • matthewnimmo
    replied
    Tomorrow (i've already measure the tub and i think i can do this crossways lol) after i finish my box, i'm going to try to get the weights right with my sub in the bathtub. So silly newbie question, whenever one starts off with his sub in the water is there a method one should go through (for example, do i need to rock the sub back and forth in the water some or push it down some) or do i simply just put it in the water and go bananas? I know this sounds so simple, but its funny how this has never really came up before (or at least no were that i've looked). Sure, you read the pre launch check list items; but this is different.

    Thoughts?

    Leave a comment:


  • matthewnimmo
    replied
    While awaiting a new LPB ive been building my storage container. Nearly done with it. Just a few more adjustments to the top and cutting out the vent holes. Then ill fit it with some foam
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • matthewnimmo
    replied
    Thanks again! Looking forward to getting it in the sub:)

    Leave a comment:


  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by matthewnimmo
    David, i think you might be right:(. Sounds mechanical like something isnt quite right inside that pump. Would mind sending me that new unit?

    Matthew nimmo
    2373 roland dr
    arnold, mo 63010

    Thanks again!
    This week.

    M

    Leave a comment:


  • matthewnimmo
    replied
    David, i think you might be right:(. Sounds mechanical like something isnt quite right inside that pump. Would mind sending me that new unit?

    Matthew nimmo
    2373 roland dr
    arnold, mo 63010

    Thanks again!

    Leave a comment:


  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Don't dig into the terminal of the plug, just expose both ends of the resistor and solder on a jumper wire, effectively shorting around the resistor. I'm standing by to send you a new LPB. Just give me the word. Sounds like the swash-plate is coming off its foundations.

    (I test these things before they go out, but sometimes a bum unit fails early with use -- you drew a bum card on that unit apparently, Matt).

    M

    Leave a comment:


  • matthewnimmo
    replied
    I think David is trying to kill me. Thats the bundle of wires that i had so much fun soldering to that damn dean connector! So, you think that the motor isnt getting enough power? It sounds nice when it runs. But ever so often it will sound like something is drowning the pump

    Leave a comment:


  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Yank out the resistor.

    In the immortal words of TWA's head Mechanic: "Any way she's gonna get it. Hang on! We're go'n for broke!"



    M

    Leave a comment:


  • matthewnimmo
    replied
    Originally posted by He Who Shall Not Be Named
    How many volts is your battery?

    M

    11.1volts

    Full charge as well.

    The motor feels pretty cool to the touch after running it for a bit (or maybe slightly warm). The resister is still in line with all my connections as well.

    Leave a comment:


  • alad61
    replied
    Originally posted by He Who Shall Not Be Named
    One correction to Alec's methodology: Never invert the submerged SAS equipped SD (in this case, to flood the ballast tank without use of the r/c system) as this will unseat both the float activated snorkel head-valve and safety float-valve, and water will pour into your battery space. Use the r/c system when venting and blowing the ballast sub-system.

    M
    Doh! I should have said that I close off the sas Snorkle with a small piece of tube capped off with a machine screw to stop the water getting in the sas system when I invert it. Sorry for the mis information...

    Leave a comment:


  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    How many volts is your battery?

    M

    Leave a comment:


  • matthewnimmo
    replied
    So anyone have a clue on why my pump went bananas? Should i trust it? What might i be doing wrong that could be damaging it?

    Leave a comment:


  • matthewnimmo
    replied
    Well ill be! So i started tinkering with my pump ntheres a little hole on the bottom of the pump. I started to assist the motor with a small screw driver and notice it was turning over! So i kept working on it and also added some silicone oil to that area and its back to life!! Now why did it freeze up to begin with is another story

    Leave a comment:


  • matthewnimmo
    replied
    I double checked the pump this morning and it still doesnt work (the light on the board lights up when i try to engage the pump but no noise. So any last ditch efforts to save my pump or do i have to buy a new one now:(. Oh how i hate to solder anymore in that area

    Leave a comment:

Working...