GATO! (It has begun)

[matthewnimmo]

When hooking up the snorkel within my SAS. Is there anything special i need to do with the hoses that leave the wtc? From the pictures ive seen it seems that i just match them up to the bulkhead on top of the wtc then take another hose and connect it to the float part on the upper hull

thoughts?

[matthewnimmo]

So, i think ive got this figured out. I had to really study trouts pics to make sure i understood what was going on. I also readjusted the wiring inside the drive area. Still squished but better. I might use rtv on the servos instead of servo tape. Ill see how the tape holds up

ive rtv the switch. Ive added the snort bulkhead to the end of the wtc with more rtv for a nice seal. I raised the bow torque bearing some using more rtv. Seems to work nicely.

More to do tonight

[matthewnimmo]

1) the placement of the rod and torque tube on top of the wtc does it make a difference? What hardware resin pieces are involved?

2) how do i make up the push rod connections to both the rod and torque tube? I see some pics and i have a general idea, but nothing concrete

3) torque tub to the retract mechanizim. Do i make another dog bone connection like the thrust rods?

4) is there a permanent connection step i need to do with the bow planes to the retract mech? Right now there are two small rods that the struts go over but nothing keeps them from sliding off them over time and movement

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

What, specifically, Matt?

M

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

What, specifically, Matt?

M

[matthewnimmo]

Ok:). I will tidy things up tonight!

next step connectors for the bow

1) any examples on how to do this? Ive seen some random photos and none of which with a sas gato wtc (not sure that matters or not)

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I am alarmed to see the aluminum device bulkhead bent like it is -- that means your servo pushrods are now shifted in their seals from how you set them when the motor bulkhead and equipment tray and bulkhead were outside the cylinder and unstressed.

Take that receiver out of its case and put it in heat-shrink, that will keep the receiver from hitting the top of the cylinder, which is likely a contributing factor as to the aluminum bulkhead displacement.

Fix it so things don't flex out of shape when you cram the motor-bulkhead into the cylinder.

And, once everything is re-arranged and fitting without binding, do your leak check. That will tell the tale.

David

[trout]

If you are worried (and I get that - it is all new) why not try to bundle some of the wires with zip ties? It is crowded in the Gato sub-driver, but I think you can regain that little bit back.

[matthewnimmo]

Lol, so i have nothing to worry about with that small gap (about 1/16 ") at the bottom end of the wtc and with the wires being squished? Guess im just trying to play it safe since its going in water and this being my first sub

thanks everyone,

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Hey, it works. Stop *****'n!

M

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Hey, it works. Stop *****'n!

M

[matthewnimmo]

All squished.

[matthewnimmo]

So, little update (ill try to share pictures tomorrow). I had to trim down my servo horns so that they would fit in the wtc. I actually have the wtc together with all the wires scrunched together (makes me nervous that the are so squished). One thing i noticed was the wires are so squished that bottom part of the resin end doesn't quit mesh flat with the cylinder. Granted the rubber ring is well inside the cylinder. Will this be a problem or do i need to keep working it until it meshes evenly?

Granted, i say all this knowing well that if David and Mike send me a 75mhz component ill have to pull that thing right back out anyhow. Good news is after everything is shoved in tight it all still works!

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Yup. Channel-4 (left stick, left-right motion) operates the ballast sub-system. You got it swapped, reverse the response so that the MPC blows with the stick to the right, and the vent opens when the stick is to the left. With the stick centered the MPC does not operate and the vent remains shut.

Once you got that worked out, set the end-point on channel-4 like this: blow position dialed back to about 30% (full travel of the transmitter stick to the right starts the LPB pumping air -- you do this to save the servo from working too hard); vent position dialed back to about 80% so you don't stall the servo. These are base numbers, fine tune as required to get the ballast sub-system to work.

One note: Whenever you dial in the pre-sets for the ballast or angle-keeper at the ADF2, first make sure that channel 4 and 6 have their end-points set to 100% at the transmitter, or you'll screw everything up.

M

[matthewnimmo]

1. That block schematic was for the old 'snort' configured ballast sub-system, which required two channels for ballast sub-system operation. For your SAS configured ballast sub-system forget channel-5, as now both the ballast servo AND LPB MPC work off the APC2 fail-safe port through a Y-lead (one leg to the servo, the other leg to the MPC). You can now use channel-5 for your retract servo. Neat, huh! Stick the big nasty BEC in any unused receiver port -- the bus don't mind.

One of these days I should update the SAS SD instructions for the GATO.

2. No. Keep It Simple!!!!!

M

That is great! So, dumb question. What is my left stick's right/left motion suppose to control? Right now when i go left on the left stick it engages the snort pump (the green light on the pump turns on and you hear the motor run)