GATO! (It has begun)

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Damn! No darkening means no oxidation. Heat up the vinegar to a near boil (run the fan!) and soak and agitate. You want the metal to achieve at least a medium gray color. Kitchen slavery is woman's work!

Get the acid and stop screwing around! ....

Looking good.

David

[matthewnimmo]

So over the weekend I got some work done. First thing i did, was purchase that blade trout posted ... as i cannot find one at any store locally (guess people prefer to grind everything as thats all you find around here). Also, went ahead and purchased tank/airbrush combo and should be here within 3-5 days.

The project went pretty smooth over the weekend, only one goof and that was with the rudder (i managed to mess up my first hole as it didn't align with the bottom portion of the rudder, but no problem as I did manage to find a longer 1/16 drill bit that allowed me to go through the entire piece with from a single side).



Here's a close up of the work inside the stern before and after adding the bearings for the rudder shaft.


Then, lastly, I did the work on the white metal pieces and have them soaking in vinegar overnight. But, when i woke up this morning they were completely dissolved....just kidding ... they looked the same as the shinny pictures below. So, i'm a little confused on how long i'll need to keep them in the solution and/or if having them in vinegar doesn't discolor them as the acid would if i had that available? Keep in mind, I don't have a picture of them in the solution as they are still soaking as i'm writing this.



So, thoughts about the vinegar soaking? I am still doing alright with it? Need them in longer?

Thanks,

[trout]

Take a look at these: http://www.gyrostools.com/Circular-Saw-Blades,-Miniature---Works-with-*Dremel®-Miniature-Fine-Teeth-Circular-Saw-Blades/c15_43/p437/Saw-Blade-w/Mandrel-Set,-Fine-Teeth-2%22-Dia.--%2382-12015/product_info.html

[matthewnimmo]

Captain's Log:

My first cutting of the superstructure went well (I do need to get a different end for my dremel to handle these cuts, as the little grinding disc given doesn't quite do the trick and creates a thicker cut line than i want; but for this job it did just fine). I should have a lot more work done this weekend.

[matthewnimmo]

Progress:

Last night I assembled the bow, I had to use some tape as these pieces were slightly warped and not fulling touching for a good weld. This morning I removed the tape and finished off the weld as everything turned out well from last nights drying. I should be cutting out access points within the bow tonight.

[ADDINGTON]

David made me a Nitro-StanFan long ago, right about the time I was throwing all of my Bondo products into the workshop circular file.
I have no 3M experience but recently was pressed to try the 'Bondo' Glazing Putty on styrene and it was suprisingly good, virtually all the qualities I get from NS. There's nothing like the good stuff, but this isn't bad at all, and easy to find.
-Kerry

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

The Nitro-Stan is an air-dry, lacquer based toch-up putty goof for only filling scratches and the like. You use the two-part Evercoat filler (your kit of Rage) for re-contouring and seam filling jobs.

I think the 3M red touch-up putty (some box stores have the stuff) is pretty much the same formula as the Nitro-Stan. Check it out.

Hobby-store putties are crap.

Go get 'em, Tiger!

David

[matthewnimmo]

lol...i plan on doing more work on the model tonight, just trying to get my ducks in a row before hand with these consumables.

So, found some evercoat rage ... but every autobody supply place just looks at me like i'm crazy when i ask about Nitro-Stan. So, few questions about that stuff.

1) I think i know the answer to this; but going to plead ignorance anyhow. Why use this stuff over the rage? don't they do the same thing? I think the answer is that the nitro is quick to apply and used for small spots (but maybe i'm wrong).

2) I can order the stuff online, which i may just do; but is there an equivalent to that stuff that I may have an easier task of finding locally?

Thanks,

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Only use putty, filler and primer on the white metal after it has been pickled.

The ideal acid is the diluted Ferric Chloride you get from an electronics supply house -- used to etch metal clad circuit board material. If that's not available, then soak the work in vinegar overnight, or warm up the vinegar and soak the work in it as you agitate it occasionally. The Ferric chloride works in seconds, the vinegar takes hours.

Rage is perfect for our work, but the other two-part fillers offered by Evercoat will do.

Metal stuff?

Stop screwing around, let's assemble this thing!

David

[matthewnimmo]

That's exactly what i'm going to do David.

1) rage stuff for most of the work it seems (the blue puddy in the videos i'm assuming)
2) did you use the metal stuff at all for the white metals in filling in the bumps/etc?
3) also, for getting the white metals ready for smoothing out with the above stuff in number 2. Can i use vingar to soak them in? If so, how long would you suggest?

Thanks again!

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Get the Rage filler, good stuff. Poly-Flex is fine, but I only used it because it was at hand. Use the stuff I use and you can't go wrong.

David

[beeryboats]

Welcome! Let the fun begin. I got the Rave filler from Caswell and it works great, and fast! It's kinda neat that it will go to a puddy state that lets you trim it with a blade before it sets. One other tip is don't screw up like I did on cutting the hull apart. Find the right cutting wheel and goooo sllooooww.

Jay

[matthewnimmo]

LOL...alright, got it ... so i'm assuming that the Poly-Flex is what i need to get as that's what you used a lot of in your video's David? The other stuff from that link, i don't think i need for this model?

Actually, while i'm at it (and i don't mind getting the stuff from caswell if they have all that i need) the acid needed for the white metals and any of those other products as david mentioned that i'd need for this model? Is there a sticky on the forums for these products?

[trout]

matthewnimmo,

You can get Evercoat here: http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/evercoat1.html or google it. I have not used testers "model putty" (if it is the one I am thinking about) in years, no decades....no help there.
In one of David's Cabal reports, he says that bondo is fine....David do you still stand by that? I have also been told that the Easy Sand will work as well (a little more economical).

Peace,
Tom

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Hobby shop primers, paints, adhesives, putties, and fillers are designed to be safe, not useful. Get your filler and Nitro-Stan from your local automotive refinishing supply house.

Caswell sells the Evercoat line of fillers -- buy there FIRST, damit!

David,