British T-class

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Thanks for the offer David but we got, or rather my wife got some more RTV in the gap. I'll leak test again today and see if that fixed it. No need to mail it, if this works.
But if that bulkhead ever Needs to come Out for any reason, I'll be Sure to send it to you tho, because I would never be able to, unless I used a BFH, and I doubt there would be much left of it. :D LOL :D

Do that. I'll fix it and turn it around quickly for you. Offer stands when/and if you need it serviced.

David,

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Okay, Great,
Thanks

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Yes, this Large T-class model is the Size for me. It's got enough space to be creative without being cramped. I can Use the size components that are really needed, to do the job, and it's easy to fit them in.
And it will still fit in the back seat of my car, luckily I have a large back seat. :D

Micro-Miniature is Fun but can't beat a large Durable creation for 'Satisfaction of Accomplishment'. :)

I think this model would survive a collision with the Battleship Texas. :D LOL :D

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I found the reason that HMS Tally-Ho had 2 different badges.
The Fox (official one) and the Seahorse (unofficial).

See Quote from website in U.K.:

http://www.submariners.co.uk/Dits/Badges/index.php

The most famous Badge though has to be the unofficial Tally-Ho, this shows a sea horse sitting on a sinking merchant ship (presumably Japanese), when a copy of the official badge caught up with the boat in the Far East, the Captain said he didn’t like it and told the subby to send it to Chiang-Kai-Shek, which he did.

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I figured out that the T-class hull is going to need a major modification to make it have same shape as original boats.
The superstructure-deck needs to be about 1/2" higher at the flank-torpedo-tube area. That's why it has the incorrect triangle shape to those tubes, which should be round and higher on hull. That section of deck should have a distinct Hump-back apperance, not flat on top like the hull kit is.
See Pics:
I can either: (1) leave it incorrect,(2) cut loose the deck in that area, move it up and arch it, filling in at sides or (3) I can build it up to correct height and shape with bondo or FG-filler, which is what I think I'll do. I can drill large holes in deck, which will lighten it some and give something for it to bond to. I think I can just cut loose the aft end of the area that the tower sits on and bend it up, to get it to the correct angle. Needs to be moved up about 3/16" at rear.
I'll be doing a lot of sculpting fore and aft anyway, so might as well do that also.

We're having Fun Now! :D

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Well, I changed my mind and desided on option #2. I cut along a line where holes will be in sides of deck structure. I figured that would be easier and that flexing the deck up in middle, and leaving attached at both ends, would not distort it too much, and it didn't. In fact it improved the gap between upper and lower hull pieces some.
Now the next thing is what to use to fill the gap opened up along almost entire lenght of deck piece. I think I'll put in about 3 small bulkheads inside, to hold it correct height, then lay in a little fiberglass & resin, inside also, to hold it ridgedly in place. Then fill and smooth the outside to proper shape. Then drill about 100 holes along those repaired cuts for the required vents.

[Kazzer]

I figured out that the T-class hull is going to need a major modification to make it have same shape as original boats.
The superstructure-deck needs to be about 1/2" higher at the flank-torpedo-tube area. That's why it has the incorrect triangle shape to those tubes, which should be round and higher on hull. That section of deck should have a distinct Hump-back apperance, not flat on top like the hull kit is.

We're having Fun Now! :D

Where did you get this idea from? Every boat was different. And almost every boat went through a morphing process. I defy anyone to look at any British boat of this period and determine there was ONE style. or one shape of the forward end. I have dozens of photos of T Class where the superstructure is completely level.
If you are going to do one boat, then pick ONE photo of it, and copy that, then claim that moment of time, because I can almost guarantee it will have changed a year later.

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All the good pictures I found of T-class, showing that area, are like those I posted above. And none had triangle shaped flank tubes. Most photos are at wrong angle to see the humped shape, In the 2 pics above it is clearly visible, along with round tubes.
I'm trying to make mine look like the majority of them looked during the war, not a later conversion.
And specificaly the way the Tally-ho looked during the war.
If you have a picture of one that did have triangle shaped tubes and flat deck, I'm curious which one it was, and when?
Here's another pic that shows the front of tower base is lower than rear and that the stern is very much Lower, The flank-tubes pointed down slightly as did the upper bow-tubes:

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Mike,
I really appreciate the video added to website about Dwayne Hill's T-class. I've been studying it closely.
There are a few things I don't understand about it tho.
The first thing I noticed was the large curved pipes behind (blocking) the flank T-tubes.
Do you have any idea what those are for?
Click Pic:

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Dwayne Hill's email address is on the video. I may send a message asking about it, if no one is familiar with the model?

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The T-class hull is large, but trying to fit in the rudder and stern-plane linkage arms is tighter than other subs half it's size. I had to grind out about half the resin in that pointed little tail. A couple of places it is thin but I think it will be plenty strong since it's fiberglass/resin.
I think I now have a workable stern linkage setup ready to be installed when the time is right. I still have a lot of cutting, drilling, grinding and sanding first.
The fixed-fins piece did fit perfectly by just cutting slots in side of hull and sliding it thru. :)
I also cut out a portion of the fin piece tho, to have better access to the DP linkage-arm.

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Mike,
I don't like to bother you while on vacation, but I still need the drawing for the T-class. I called the office but no one could help me find the status of where it is???
Thanks for the help, if possible, while laying on the beach. I'll drink to THAT!

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Well, Looks like I'm going to be buiding this thing without a drawing. :rolleyes:
Maybe I won't screw-up too much without it. :rolleyes:

I can't believe it, I bought a large scale model (1/48th) so I would have plenty of space for bow-plane retract linkage and the torpedo launchers in bow, but it has less room in bow than my Gato model. It is large in middle but very Small at both ends. I've dug out about all the extra resin I can without it being so thin it's transparent. :D
I think I can get everything crammed in there but it's not going to be as easy as I hoped. :(

[Deep Diver]

Hi
I do have copy's of the dockside drawings, for a group 3 boat, just wot do you require? I do not know if I can get P/M on this site, if not then e-mail me on ellisthefirst@hotmail.co.uk

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The problem with the drawings is that the last I heard they were ready to be mailed, about 10 days ago. But with Mike 'hiding out' on some island, there's no way to find out who 'Droped the Ball'. :D
It could be on that 'Slow boat from HongKong' and show up sometime, I just don't know???