Project type XXI scale 1/96

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  • MFR1964
    replied
    Originally posted by DrSchmidt
    There are retracting bollards?
    Yup retracting bollards, kept it simple, KISS, just put them up and down by hand.

    Manfred.
    Last edited by MFR1964; 03-10-2025, 02:45 PM.

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  • MFR1964
    replied
    Originally posted by redboat219
    How did you do those mind blowing 1/96 retracting bollards?

    I'm amazed you didn't build it as a dry hull.
    Kept it simple, made a jigg for drilling and added some stainless steel 1 mm rods for the bollards.
    In this size a dryhull is a no no, going with a cilinder is the way, the wall thickness is not enough to stand the pressure involving a dryhull.

    Manfred.

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  • DrSchmidt
    replied
    There are retracting bollards?

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  • redboat219
    replied
    How did you do those mind blowing 1/96 retracting bollards?

    I'm amazed you didn't build it as a dry hull.

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  • MFR1964
    replied
    Done some detailwork on the decks, found a solution for the powerswitch and some more work on the enclosed E motor,

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    The powerswitch was sitting too high on the SD, had to alter the thickness of the plexiglass which holds the switch, this allows me to put the deck on without any issue's.

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    Made a hidden hatch to reach the powerswitch.

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    Using this hatch allows me to power up the boat without opening the model.

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    Also made this contraption to steer the upper divingplanes, stole this idea from David's XXI

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    Don't know how you guys call them, but they are used in the harbour to line up the boat, in real live they turn them and lift by hand 90 degrees to get them up or down, i opted for just pushing in when not needed, this is done on the forward deck.

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    Pretty much the same story on the after deck, compared to the front there are less.

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    Main components on the enclosure, designed a way to keep the second gear at it's place.

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    A close-up of the design i used, the rim is turned down on the lathe to get a fit inside the tube.

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    Taped up for a dryfitt, that bent tube at the back will be used to connect to the SD, this way i can equalize the pressure when running the motor.

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    In theory this will replace the two motors in the wet, it will be a tight fitt, first i have to do some testing if the enclosure works as intended.


    Manfred.

    Attached Files

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  • Subculture
    replied
    Originally posted by JHapprich
    Thats too loosely fitting for proper steering. Id use a miniature belt drive,too
    What about all the gears in your servos?

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  • MFR1964
    replied
    Sorry no link, bought at a local store

    Manfred.

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  • redboat219
    replied
    Got a link for those lip seals?

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  • MFR1964
    replied
    Made some connections to the bowpart, ran into a issue with the shutters and started a concept for a seperate wtc for a motor, pictures

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    I ran into this, the shutters pivot outside the hull when opened, this is due to the central pivotpoint i made to open the shutters, the bow is curved and a central pivotpoint will give you a linear motion.
    To solve this you have to make two seperate hinges for each shutter, cutted open the toppart for this.

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    Done this with the jewelerssaw, taking the weldinglines as my guide.

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    Closed and opened shutters, much better as before.

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    Due to the open cutted toppart i can show how the mechanism for opening and closing is working.

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    First stage for making the connection for the forward dive/planes, this is only for the up and down motion.



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    Connection made for retracting the dive-planes.


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    Connection made for opening the torpedo-shutters.

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    Made a concept to see if this will work, did some testing under power and it seems that this will be a solution instead of running the motors in the wet.

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    Had to place the motor out of line, this way the shafts will be in line with the shafts of the XXI

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    Next step to get this working, used a lipseal and a piece of copper tube to get things turning.

    Building a seperate WTC for the motor is a side project which i can work on between things, first i have to alter the powerswitch of the SD, i can't close the upperdeck because the switch is too high on the SD,

    Manfred.











    Attached Files

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  • MFR1964
    replied
    Mad Man indeed, it must be my slight disorder from static scratch building,

    Did some work on testing the retract mechanism, pictures

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    Made some provisional rods attached to the forward diving-planes, so i can start testing

    Also made a short vid to show the actual movement.



    I suspect it will be a smoother action when connected to the servo's, for now it's good enough to see the concept is working.

    Manfred.

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  • Das Boot
    replied
    I have to agree with David on this one, Manfred, you’re a mad man.

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  • MFR1964
    replied
    Originally posted by trout
    Manfred,
    You are a flipping show off, over achiever, and a I don't know what else to call you. Amazing work my friend. Look forward to what is next and I will be keeping notes on what you do.
    Peace,
    Tom
    I'ts called Manfredizing

    Manfred

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  • MFR1964
    replied
    Originally posted by He Who Shall Not Be Named

    Shutter doors, retract and functional bow planes, internal linkages for the rudder and stern planes... what's next!!???? You're taking me back to school, pal.
    Hopefully to get a functional model

    Manfred

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  • trout
    replied
    Manfred,
    You are a flipping show off, over achiever, and a I don't know what else to call you. Amazing work my friend. Look forward to what is next and I will be keeping notes on what you do.
    Peace,
    Tom

    Leave a comment:


  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by He Who Shall Not Be Named

    GGrrrrr!.....
    Shutter doors, retract and functional bow planes, internal linkages for the rudder and stern planes... what's next!!???? You're taking me back to school, pal.

    Leave a comment:

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