My first build, and I need help!

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Very well don, Jay.

You likely used K&S 1/16" brass rod as the pin. That stuff is an alloy of copper and zinc known as, 'cartridge brass'. Cartridge brass (sometimes K&S let's other alloys of brass into their production system) is supposed to be the only alloy K&S uses in the manufacture of their tube and solid stock. Anyway ... cartridge brass is kinda hard as the various copper alloys go. I

use 'machine brass' for such pins, Jay.

The small lead content in machine brass makes it more malleable than cartridge brass; easier to peen back the pin ends without damaging the harder square brass tube.

So ... there!

David

[beeryboats]

Thanks David. Trout ( aka Tom ) and I have been trading tools and info and I see by his posting he had a little problem with the shaft bearings. I was almost in the same boat as I had to thin down the hull pretty good, but I got it done. I see in his photos that he has the gas saver. I guess I wasn't aware of that option at the time I ordered the kit. Am I going to regret it? I do have the snort but was wondering how the manifold was attached to the top of the balast tank. I guess I need to drill a hole for the manifold and glue it in place? I also have the push rod guides that need to be glued to the lexan tube. Is the co-hesive going to work for the lexan?
Jay

[trout]

Jay,
I can not tell you whether I am glad I have the gas saver or not. Mine did not come with a SNORT system (I purchased my WTC from someone who was not going to build the Gato in an R/C configuration and never used it), so I am adding that in. I prefer that ability to dive and surface as many times.
Peace,
Tom

[beeryboats]

I hope someone can help me identify my leftover parts. The stuff in the bag I'm pretty sure is if I wanted operational torpedos (?) or to detail the bow. The four items in the front really have me stumped. I now know for sure I'm missing a few important parts, and I will shoot Mike an email about that in a moment. The bone looking thing to the left has set screws in each hole like it's for push rods maybe?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Left to right:

Klystron Relay, Hydro-spanner, Flux Capacitor, Interoceter (no longer available in kit form)

(bow/sail plane dumb-bell SD attachement point, bow plane torque tube collar, 1/16" pushrod seal, forward bulkhead (end-cap) wire releif block)

David

[beeryboats]

What are these two for?


(bow/sail plane dumb-bell SD attachement point, bow plane torque tube collar,
David[/QUOTE]

[beeryboats]

Ok, I did my research and Mike only includes three pairs of magnetic couplers. You need six, so why not include them? I also ordered two more servos. Nothing I had in my aircraft micro servo selection would fit the the sub driver. Hard to believe, but it's true. I did get the rudder and rear planes hooked up and in the hull. I ended up adding a touch of Rage filler forward of the rear planes pivot point so the screw would have something to bite into. The hardware store had #2 countersunk wood screws and #4-40 macine screws. I still have to see which way I'm gonna go with that. I'll be sure to thread the hole then hit it with thin CA to firm up the treads in the filler. With nothing else to do I started work on the sail. The forward gun stantions in the kit are a joke. They broke just cutting them from the tree. I may have to scratch build something for that. What has someone else done for the dainty railings?

[trout]

Jay,
I am going to send you the die tomorrow. Do you want me to put in some 2-56 screws for the rear planes? I have about a hundred of them :) I also have some very fine piano wire (may add realistic rust) or brass if you want to build your own railings. Let me know! From sites I have visited, many rebuild them in wire (brass usually).
Peace,
Tom

[beeryboats]

That would be awesome! Much appreciated. I wonder where I can buy some brass stantions? I guess I'll google it. I read your post about all the shafts bent and twisted. Yes you need to taper and a lathe is the best way to go.
Thanks,
Jay

[beeryboats]

Hooray, my servos showed up in the mail. But the magnetic connectors are back ordered. I wonder when I'll see them? At least I can start on the sub driver and get some rigging done this weekend.
Jay

[beeryboats]

David, how much stern plane travel do I need for the leveler?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

No more than 35-degrees each way. 20-degrees is fine.

David

[beeryboats]

I'm limited to about 3/8" up travel but plenty of down. I would think that would be enough. The forward planes are the main controls, while the aft are for the leveler, right?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Right...........

[beeryboats]

Is 3/8" enough?