3D printed 1:48 Type VII C in PLA and Resin

[trout]

I love it! Bring out the pitch forks and torches. By the way, John Galt was just an engineer.

[rwtdiver]

I love it! Bring out the pitch forks and torches. By the way, John Galt was just an engineer.

Hi Tom,

I just wanted to drop you a note to let you know that our thoughts and prayers are going out to you and your wife. My goodness you both are certainly going through a lot lately. Special prayers and thoughts to both of you.

Rob & Lorraine,
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[trout]

Thank you Rob and others that have reached out. I appreciate the prayers and support given.

[Wizzard033]

Sorry for the delays! I haven't had many jobs this year and a really good one popped up so I've needed to repair the head gasket on one of my trucks asap but I will get an update on here soon.

[jlcrl]

Hello, I have a similar project.
But waterproof compartment with transparent lexan inspection hatch.
This improves accessibility.
I found some informations on plastic/resin adhesion:

- High tech sub drone 3D printed

https://www.ingentaconnect.com/contentone/mts/mtsj/2016/00000050/00000005/art00009?crawler=true&mimetype=application/pdf

page 6 and 7:
"The epoxy does not seep into and impregnate the plastic, which is the main cause for potential delamination."

- Also this model maker made an adhesion test:

https://navi.modelisme.com/article37.html

CA is used as intermediate layer.
a thin layer of liquid CA on ABS considerably increases epoxy adhesion
(tested with 10 Kg weight)

Another one found that polyester resin on ABS gives correct adhesion (to be tested...)

[CC Clarke]

Wow, you weren't kidding that's a cool product. I might just have to try this as well.
Thanks, Keith

Do you know if you can use acetone to thin this epoxy? It makes Bob Smith epoxy very glassy.

I was first exposed to this product (and other epoxies they make) while working in high rel aerospace applications. We didn't alter it, which is a sure-fire way to have production issues. (Once a production process is locked down, no modifications are allowed without a very compelling waiver.)

I fill the recesses in my periscope heads with this epoxy to simulate glass - the shinier, the better. Thanks for the tip! I'll give it a try as I just printed a dozen Type 2E and 8B periscope shears yesterday.

By far, the stongest epoxy I've worked with at multiple contractors is an aerospace-approved, grey 3M epoxy that is sold in syringes. The syringes have to be stored in a freezer, as it begins to cure at room temp. Nobody wanted to use a syringe less than half full as it had been frozen/thawed multiple times. We'd squirt a dab into an aluminum tray to apply and rush the remainder back to the freezer. At some companies, cabosil is added using an approved procedure. After scuffing a metal surface and applying, it would air cure overnight, or we'd use a lab oven to speed it up if it was a priority job. Very difficult to remove without applying heat, (the sworn enemy of epoxy) as the peel and shear force was incredibly strong.

[Wizzard033]

Hello, I have a similar project.
But waterproof compartment with transparent lexan inspection hatch.
This improves accessibility.
I found some informations on plastic/resin adhesion:

- High tech sub drone 3D printed

https://www.ingentaconnect.com/contentone/mts/mtsj/2016/00000050/00000005/art00009?crawler=true&mimetype=application/pdf

page 6 and 7:
"The epoxy does not seep into and impregnate the plastic, which is the main cause for potential delamination."

- Also this model maker made an adhesion test:

https://navi.modelisme.com/article37.html

CA is used as intermediate layer.
a thin layer of liquid CA on ABS considerably increases epoxy adhesion
(tested with 10 Kg weight)

Another one found that polyester resin on ABS gives correct adhesion (to be tested...)

I'm interested to look into this. Thanks for the information.

[Wizzard033]

I was first exposed to this product (and other epoxies they make) while working in high rel aerospace applications. We didn't alter it, which is a sure-fire way to have production issues. (Once a production process is locked down, no modifications are allowed without a very compelling waiver.)

I fill the recesses in my periscope heads with this epoxy to simulate glass - the shinier, the better. Thanks for the tip! I'll give it a try as I just printed a dozen Type 2E and 8B periscope shears yesterday.

By far, the stongest epoxy I've worked with at multiple contractors is an aerospace-approved, grey 3M epoxy that is sold in syringes. The syringes have to be stored in a freezer, as it begins to cure at room temp. Nobody wanted to use a syringe less than half full as it had been frozen/thawed multiple times. We'd squirt a dab into an aluminum tray to apply and rush the remainder back to the freezer. At some companies, cabosil is added using an approved procedure. After scuffing a metal surface and applying, it would air cure overnight, or we'd use a lab oven to speed it up if it was a priority job. Very difficult to remove without applying heat, (the sworn enemy of epoxy) as the peel and shear force was incredibly strong.

thanks for the help, I've been busy lately but plan to continue building subs asap.

[Wizzard033]

Sorry for the delays to all interested I've recently been busy at work but will continue my builds shortly.