Gwen's Nautilus design as described by Jules Verne - Discussion- Everyone welcome.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Well the weather finally warmed up enough that I went outside and spent several hours stacking bricks to build a double-walled tank about 1.5 ft deep x 1.5 x 6 ft. Next I spent around an hour getting the boat trimmed for the surface. The first time I put it in the water it was within 1/4" of the waterline and just a tad high on the bow. After I finished the surface trim I powered it up and submerged it. She went down a little tail-heavy and wouldn't resurface. The bow came up but not the stern. So I pulled it out of the water and found that when the boat submerged the aft dive plane bushing had somehow pushed right out the back of the WTC and the engine compartment was completely flooded.

Needless to say I shut it down, disconnected the battery and pulled the WTC apart to let it dry out. Can anybody tell me if I should expect problems with the BLM,2IS, and AD2 boards, ESC, motor, and servos having all been submerged in water? Also what's the best way to make sure I have a nice tight seal on those bushings? I never had trouble with that before now. Hopefully I can resolve this with a minimum of issues.â

Remove the heat-shrink from all devices that use it to cover the PCB; pull the wet servos, open them up to expose the PCB, motor, and potentiometer; If the ESC is potted, your good; yank the motor. Dump everything into a bucket of fresh water and vigorously scrub the conductor side of all PCB's with a non-metallic, stiff brush (a glass fiber brush is ideal).





Dunk again into the fresh water then blow down with medium-pressure air.



Place everything on a cookie sheet and bake at 150-degrees for 24 hours. It's vital that you place a non-conductive barrier between the PCB's and cookie sheet or you'll slick all the IC's. Do not bake the servo cases, gears, and the like or they'll melt!





Install fresh heat-shrink on the PCB's; reassemble the servos; remount the motor. Test for correct operation.

Fix the foundation of that seal body. And sin no more.

David

[rwtdiver]

Gwen,

It sounds like you have done it all correct! Getting everything out of the cylinder to start drying out. When this happened to me i also used my airbrush compressor on LOW pressure to blow around the connections and all the nooks and crannies to help dry things out. Using a hair dryer will help to dry out the moisture that may have condensed on the inside of some of the electrical component's cases, then used electrical spray to help in cleaning up and dry the electrical circuits. This method has always worked for me, and I am not saying it is right or wrong! I know how (speaking from experience) disappointing a flooded WTC can be!


Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[GwenB]

Well the weather finally warmed up enough that I went outside and spent several hours stacking bricks to build a double-walled tank about 1.5 ft deep x 1.5 x 6 ft. Next I spent around an hour getting the boat trimmed for the surface. The first time I put it in the water it was within 1/4" of the waterline and just a tad high on the bow. After I finished the surface trim I powered it up and submerged it. She went down a little tail-heavy and wouldn't resurface. The bow came up but not the stern. So I pulled it out of the water and found that when the boat submerged the aft dive plane bushing had somehow pushed right out the back of the WTC and the engine compartment was completely flooded.

Needless to say I shut it down, disconnected the battery and pulled the WTC apart to let it dry out. Can anybody tell me if I should expect problems with the BLM,2IS, and AD2 boards, ESC, motor, and servos having all been submerged in water? Also what's the best way to make sure I have a nice tight seal on those bushings? I never had trouble with that before now. Hopefully I can resolve this with a minimum of issues.​

[rwtdiver]

Welcome Gwen,

Looking forward to your to more of your Jules Verne Nautilus designs and especially your build when you get to it!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[GwenB]

DrSchmidt -

I agree mine looks completely like a brick, but...It looks like that for a good reason =P the roof of the wheelhouse retracts into the hull and has to seal all the way around when it does so. Also it needs to be 2 meters wide from front to back to allow room for all the controls and Nemo. If it is rounded at the front (which I totally prefer looks-wise) the controls would have to be moved back far enough that there would not be room inside for the captain and or crew. Also the portholes on the top and bottom of the wheelhouse need to align in order to see out the front when it is retracted. The model you built looks great though=) It might be possible for me to round the front of the deck to match the rounded leading edge of the roof as you drew it if I can cram everything in there as Verne described it though. I'll see what I can do. This stuff is why I included an interior layout as well. I'm trying to make it all work as Verne described if I can.

The ram point should be triangular in shape though when looking at it from the front. If you notice in my drawing the front of the deck (where the lower porthole goes) is cut out from the front to the leading edge of the wheelhouse top so the porthole can be inset behind the strake.​

[GwenB]

Gwen,


Might I suggest tidying up the thread a bit by you creating a new topic for the Nautilus project? Once you get that started, I can move the posts here that deal with it so that everything stays together nice and neat...


Bob

I was thinking exactly the same thing Bob. I'll set up the new thread today.

[GwenB]

Tidy up that birdcage back aft and I think you've got it.

David

Are you saying I should just make it a solid ring like DrSchmidt drew?

[DrSchmidt]

That's it....I did a bit more streamlined bridge, as the one in your PDF looks like a brick ;-)

[RCSubGuy]

Gwen,


Might I suggest tidying up the thread a bit by you creating a new topic for the Nautilus project? Once you get that started, I can move the posts here that deal with it so that everything stays together nice and neat...


Bob

[DrSchmidt]

That’s ViaCAD Pro

[GwenB]

Is your PDF based on a CAD-model?

No, for now I'm using Adobe Illustrator, so it's a vector graphic drawing. You'r 3D model there looks pretty good =). What 3D app are you using?

[DrSchmidt]

Is your PDF based on a CAD-model?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Updated Nautilus drawing. I added hull drain vents and an aft keel to better protect the rudder.
[ATTACH]n168058[/ATTACH]

Tidy up that birdcage back aft and I think you've got it.

David

[GwenB]

Updated Nautilus drawing. I added hull drain vents and an aft keel to better protect the rudder.
Nautilus-Gwen42.pdf

[GwenB]

Ah, a foam layer cake, you say...

I have used this method for 3 boats and found it to work great. I draw out the station formers in 3/4' intervals (or the thickness of the construction foam that you are using ) and include alignment and center lines at 90 degrees-it might take some extrapolation, pencil and divider work. Then they are photocopied to scale size- Minus the thickness of the fairing material (I use spackle, redlead and Bondo polyester body putty - allow 1/8") and cut out. I buy a small roll of .005" aluminum flashing at Home Depot or Lowes and using 3M 77 spray adhesive, I glue the paper formers to the flashing by only spraying one side (a tack gluing) Then the templated aluminum station formers are cut out with an ordinary scissors. Next using 3/4" construction foam (either green (Lowes) or pink (Home Depot) , I glue the formers to the foam with an alignment mark on two edges for visibility .(note that this foam cuts well with any powered saw and sands well with a belt sander (preferably bench type)...

Now I take the foam former blocks and glue them, together taking care to keep everything aligned using the marks that you drew earlier. Note that by spray gluing only one side and NOT waiting until the glue is tack free, you can pull the glued items apart if needed.

The only tool you might not have in your arsenal can be easily built , purchased or borrowed-a hot wire foam cutter.
Take the hotwire cutter and using the roof flashing as a guide, proceed to cut the hull to the desired shape.

From now on its standard body work I personally like to fair the foam out with regular spackle-it sands nicely and takes paint well. I prime and paint (Old school Rustoleum is my choice-it will withstand many solvents when fully cured) I suggest drawing in a casting line so you know where to submerge the master to, so it can be removed from the mold. If the ultracal cures over the widest point of the hull its not coming out of the mold (if so ...chisel and hammer)

Several coats of wax and/or a parting agent and you're ready to cast 1/2 at a time ..I do 1 offs with ultracal 30 but any casting compound will work-

Below is the nose fairing on my Atlantis Sub and the hull of my Pacemaker express sport fisherman (sorry I don't have more pictures of the process)-Best of luck-BG

Thanks Bob, that's great stuff. I definitely learned a few things that will be useful in my project from your information. Please hang around here and feel free to jump in at any time =)

Gwen