stern cone from the inside. The step between "old" and "new" hull must be flattened. Will make a large grinding cone with some rough paper on it.
Scratch build Skipjack-conversion : Project 1710 Beluga in 1/63 scale
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stern cone from the inside. The step between "old" and "new" hull must be flattened. Will make a large grinding cone with some rough paper on it. -
Not done yet, Bob! Current to-do list:
- safety tracks, styrene rod or antenna cable. Another radio test will deal with this.
- trimming the still raw planes to final shape
- adjusting the stern cone to the prop hub's diameter
- modifying the raboesch prop cutting back the blades and hub. Make russian hub=counter nut from brass
- cutting out hull under the sail, laminate sail to hull, finalize sail and deck, sail railing
- hull filling
- filling tool marks from scribing and over-cutting of the floodholes
- linkages and wtc-cradle
- laminating of the brass details
-painting
Right now doing this:
Gluing down the docking ring and buoy, installing plane shafts ( one is loose !), install the rudder horns. Surplus parts from the MIKE.
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Very nice work, but for heaven's sake, sand and fill that sail fillet! That gorgeous hull is looking like a supermodel with a black eye! :PLeave a comment:
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Still having issues with uploading pictures.
Buoy and docking ring:
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I got my info from a single source, but they could have been wrong or materials are different. Either way, I would be thrilled with your test!Leave a comment:
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More details:
That sensor array should actually have 3 of those tubes. However i installed only one for stability. This is 1.5mm stainless steel rod.
i also tested the radio - indoor- put the wtc into the hull and closed it up, anntenna at full length insede the boat in parallel to the battery cable for poor conditions. Changed rooms to the other side of the house, doors closed. Wife stood watch at the model. Corona receiver at 40mhz. Many electric devices in the house ON.
No signal loss not even rattling of the servos.
Am positively disappointed which causes following question:
Is this carbon fibre?
Last edited by JHapprich; 12-04-2022, 04:06 PM.Leave a comment:
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Hello! I recently mostly finished scribing the deck details. This evening i milled out the floodholes on the lower hull and made the wing-shaped sockets for those sternward flow sensors from brass, which will be put into recesses milled just forward of the planes. Sidenote i figured my planes beeing slightly too large, but i actually like that look more than the thin fins of the original S-533 so i'll most likely keep'em.
Last edited by JHapprich; 11-27-2022, 06:31 PM.Leave a comment:
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Trying what works best! Scribing on your kits is much friendlier,David! The 1:1 blueprint makes measuring and marking quite easy. However, i will not implement all the stuff thats on the plan, as in the pictures of the real oat in active duty, there is very little of it visible. There are also several errors in those plans, so i'll always stay with the phographies. Eg forward safety track, there is no interruption on starbord around the docking ring and thereshould not be that towing line from stb sail to the bow. I suspect those rims around the hull sections should not be visible either, but the bow sonar should have clear sharp edges...
In the end its all black- err... very dark matte grey
No one here happens to have proper plans or pictures of the bottom and keel and how the lower ballast water inlets were actually arranged? For the moment, i stick with Mr. Hardrocks design, as it makes more sense than the pressluft' boat's.
will see what happens with my antenna signal, next.
JörgLeave a comment:
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