I have finished printing The Skipjack. I printed in 1:96 to accomodate my 2.5” Subdriver. I am now installing the mechanics. The Tail assembly is not yet attached as Drive shaft and Control Rods are being routed.
3D Printed Skipjack from The Nautilus Drydocks
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One thing I learned was in scaling the Bayonets. Do not change the thickness as it elongates the “beads” that go into the “locking channel”. Here you see one of the Bayonnet Ring. I notched the Ring to allow the Dive Plane rod to fit above the SD Cylinder. All Cylinder Support Rings and the Bayonets were sized to hold my 2.5” Cylinder. I will be using Automotive Sandable Primer and sanding after Trimming.
Last edited by biggsgolf; 09-17-2021, 05:28 PM.Comment
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I must say I am amazed at how well the Bayonet System works. I also oversized the Rudders for better agility. I used Loctite Gel, then West Marine System Epoxy to adhere the Hulls. The Loctite Gel was recommended to me for PLA since it “reacts” with PLA for a strong bond.Comment
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Bruce,
Your Skipjack looks like it came out very nice! I have printed up eight of Bob's (Nautilus Drydocks) boats from his files, and they have all turned out great! Looking forward to see more of your progress reports on your Skipjack!
Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"Comment
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Thanks Rob! Today I am trimming. She seems perfect! I will be conducting pool trials this weekend.
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Thanks Rob! Today I am trimming. She seems perfect! I will be conducting pool trials this weekend.
https://youtu.be/0sQJhRoVdhw
What WTC/Sub driver are you using, or did you scratch build your own? Looks like it worked out well!
Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"Comment
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I sure will Bruce!
Casey,
Sanding is not a real priority for me, as I am more into the boats function rather than going to a real scale finish! But to achieve a somewhat smooth finish I start out with 180 grit and work my way up to 220 and 300 grit! From there I use 2 coats of heavy fill primer with 220 sanding in between coats. After the heavy fill I use a standard wet/dry automotive primer and then use wet sanding with 300 to 400 paper. After that, it's all flat finish rattle cans for color (as close as possible to full scale boats) and then two coats of matt or flat clear coat finish!
I really have not got into the hard tried and true finish work as of yet! That's a whole new process for me to learn!
Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"Comment
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Ballast Testing and Maiden Submerged Testing
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