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3d FDM Print vs Resin Print

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  • 3d FDM Print vs Resin Print

    I am going about producing two of the Typhoon subs from Bob's store by two methods. One is using a Prusa 3d FDM printer in an enclosure using ASA and the other is doing it out of resin (SirayaTech) on a Photon Mono X. I will post updates and pictures here as I work through the process. So far I have completed printing one hull out of Resin and am halfway through printing the other hull out of ASA. The resin printer has really great details and is printing well. The only issue with the resin is alot of supports are needed to get it off the buildplate and it has some dimensional problems in several of the pieces. THe ASA is printing very well and I'm doing it in high quality in an enclosure. I has some of the same issue with dimensional changes but pretty much everything is on track. Here are some pictures of my setup and the prints
    Click image for larger version  Name:	Prusa Small.jpg Views:	0 Size:	96.3 KB ID:	147585
    Click image for larger version  Name:	Mono x small.jpg Views:	0 Size:	82.5 KB ID:	147586
    Click image for larger version  Name:	ASA parts small.jpg Views:	0 Size:	91.9 KB ID:	147587
    The ASA parts even show the small quad holes that are like pinholes.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	Resin Parts small.jpg Views:	0 Size:	97.0 KB ID:	147588
    The resin has bee sanded some that is why some of the white dust.
    Attached Files

  • #2
    When you say dimensional problems what do you mean? I’ll be very interested in your progress. So far which do you prefer?

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    • #3
      Slight differences in top and bottom dimensions that require some sanding to make the parts align. Nothing major but still worth noting, could probably be fixed with printer tweaking. I like the detail of the resin but I think the FDM in ASA is going to be more durable. When I get to sanding and fitting I think that will determine preference. I also think a hybrid approach would be great. The resin is excellent on all the planes and conning tower with ASA for the body, but it remains to be seen.

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      • #4
        I keep working on the hulls, the Resin hull is completely printed, the FDM hull still has two large parts and all of the small parts. I have been smoothing and sanding the resin hull, but still alot of work to do. The resin didn't keep its shape perfectly so there is some contours that have to be filled and smoothed. The FDM hull looks to be much more in tolerance so should have less filling.
        Click image for larger version

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        This is the resin hull

        Click image for larger version

Name:	Typhoon FDM sanding small.jpg
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        And the FDM hull (ASA)

        Click image for larger version

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        And a shot of the Kilo sanding process. I have almost all the running gear done. The cylinder is up and running.

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        • #5
          Nice work! Looks like a fun project.

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          • #6
            Yes you will see alot of imperfections in the resin hull prints if you resin printer is not set to the correct setting. Also your STL files need to be smooth as heck or your resin prints will come out needing alot of sanding and look bad. Any files I get from other people or buy I uses Netfabb program to smooth the outer shell for good resin prints, as the files are made most of the time for reg 3D printers. I own a Elegoo Saturn. This is what I am printing with the Saturn.
            Last edited by Sinksalot; 02-22-2021, 06:21 AM.

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            • #7
              I finally got the hulls assembled but still alot of work to do to make it smooth and everything fit. Some observations; the resin hull is much heavier and much more brittle (as expected) but it is easier to sand and make smooth. The FDM hull fit better but will take more sanding work. I have almost finished printing all the parts. Once I get the hulls fitting together correctly I will start working the running gear.
              Click image for larger version

Name:	Complete Hull small.jpg
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              FDM (ASA) in the foreground and Resin in the background.

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              • #8
                would you be kind enough to drop me a line regarding the 3d typhoon prints thanks skaboo
                skaboo@talktalk.net

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                • #9
                  Well I took a little break from sanding to almost complete my first RC sub. Its a Kilo from Bob with all the bells and whistles. Running gear is in and working just waiting on a package getting here on Friday to connect the prop shaft.
                  Click image for larger version

Name:	Kilo almost finished small.jpg
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                  • #10
                    I have the FDM hull ready for mechanicals. First I printed up some new bulkheads that fit the 2.5" and 3" MSD from Bob. As you can see in the picture the stock MSD is too large, the front of the bottom hull has to house the missile tubes. So now to determine how big for the ballast tank, any thoughts?

                    Click image for larger version

Name:	typhoon cylinder setup.jpg
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                    Attached Files

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                    • #11
                      Ballast tank is difficult to estimate as many factors dictate its size. As yours is a 3d print though you should be able to use the STL file split it in cad at the desired waterline and let the software provide you with a very accurate figure for displacement. Make sure you use volume and not weight.

                      I think you will need some means of compensating for a shift in charge cg and cb with those missiles being toward of the boats centre of lift.
                      DIVE IN! Go on, go on, go on, go on, GO ON! http://www.diveintomodelsubmarines.co.uk

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                      • #12
                        Don't be afraid to get creative here, Cory.

                        The only purpose of the forward battery compartment is to... house the battery. Power can be provided from any number of external sources (though the MSD makes it very convenient). You could pop off the forward battery section, cut it really short (just enough to basically hold the forward servos) and reinstall. Now you have a truncated cylinder with the forward section of your boat completely open for missiles. Just pop a battery connector in the front and run a waterproof NiMh battery pack in the wet.

                        The beauty of the MSD design is that if you want to transfer the cylinder to a different boat, just get another section of tubing and pop it on. It would literally take 15 seconds to do.

                        Bob

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                        • #13
                          Great project.

                          Maybe something usefull for a future project, I treat my printed parts with resin from my other printer and cure it under UV light.
                          It makes the PLA much stronger and it fills in most of the printlines, this saves a lot of time when it comes to use filler.
                          And I find sanding the resin top layer gives a smoother result than sanding the PLA, PLA alway's sands a bit rough.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by SubHuman View Post

                            Just pop a battery connector in the front and run a waterproof NiMh battery pack in the wet.

                            Bob
                            Great Idea Bob, for some reason I always forget Batteries can run in the wet.

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                            • #15
                              What is the best way to change a STL Files scale? If the the original scale is 1/72 how best to change to 1/96 for example. Would “Meshmix” “uniform scaling” be a good solution?

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