Thanks Brady.
Yes, I particularly like the 667 because it kind of has a sleek inelegant clunky-ness to it. There is always plenty of character in these designs with their over sized missile decks and control surfaces that just don't look adequate enough to do the job..
Talking of missile decks. I have started building it and putting the pieces together. As I am making the missile deck as a unit that is stand alone I can make it and check every angle before bolting or in this case screwing it down to the PVC pipe. I highly recommend doing as much as you can in a modular way. It allows the freedom to check everything first before sticking it all together. I think that If I build the missile deck piece by piece onto the PVC I would'nt find it as easy to check all dimensions and get that dreaded elusive symmetry that we all crave....
As can be seen by the last photos I have glued the plywood side pieces onto the profile pieces at either end and used tape to keep the tension whilst gluing. I could have used G-clamps but having a slight angle they would gradually ride off the assembly. I took the time to check the alignment of all the pieces.
As I was working on the creation of the Missile deck I also turned my attention to the fact that the 667 has raised hull section that at its lower end creates a typical missile deck groove that is so often found on the lower edge of missile boats. I assume it facilitates drainage under the missile deck section. In order to create this raised hull section which wraps either side , parallel with the missile deck and running just beneath it and up over the top of the hull I needed to cut and sand back to size a rectangular piece of PVC pipe that will be glued to the top of the PVC hull effectively increasing its diameter in an unbalanced way by about 3mm. Looking at the drawings you could see that the thickness of the PVC pipe was just ideal to match the thickness of the widened hull section. Yay!
You can see in these photos the raised PVC rectangular pipe section that forms the widened hull section that wraps around the top of the hull amid ships
Yep, I realized I should have used a piece of PVC pipe NOT left over from a building renovation. I have had to scrape away paint around the areas that I work. The raised hull sections will be pasted over with filler in order to create the gradual transition needed where this surface then lowers back into the over all hull diameter. I don't need to apply filler over the top however as this is where raised deck section will fit over the top. The lower edge of the missile deck will fillet very gradually into this raised section just above the groove.
667 had a date with the alignment board. It would come sooner or later. If you are scratch building a boat you simply can't do without it. This is the board where you have your model suspended between two centres as though you are going to turn it up on a lathe. It allows you to get your alignment right and work out your symmetry. Yep, that thing that subtly makes or breaks so many jobs. I bought a 90 mm pvc end cap that I could slip onto the edge of the pvc hull pipe. I drilled a hole dead centre and popped it on where the stern section will go. I then drilled a hole in the middle of the bow round section and places it on the spindle at either end.
Once the sides were glued down and checked over with the sliding bevel I started work on the top section. This top piece needed holes in it to correspond with the holes above the backbone structure underneath in order to get the self tapping screws into the backbone and through the PVC pipe to finally secure the missile deck when I am happy with it. This top piece was glued on the top and given time to glue. PVA glue can be slow. Over the top of this piece would eventually be glued the Renshape strip that would take all the detail of the missile deck. This would be one of the last things added and only after the deck was screwed in place. However there will be lots of times that the Renshape will be fixed down to the top of the deck whilst I check alignment, the start of the radius as the deck slopes around the sides and finally checking the transition between Renshape and plywood for scribing the detail of the sides of the missile hatch doors as they go around that radius.
Anyway, enough for now. As always any ideas tips and insights, welcome.
David H
Yes, I particularly like the 667 because it kind of has a sleek inelegant clunky-ness to it. There is always plenty of character in these designs with their over sized missile decks and control surfaces that just don't look adequate enough to do the job..
Talking of missile decks. I have started building it and putting the pieces together. As I am making the missile deck as a unit that is stand alone I can make it and check every angle before bolting or in this case screwing it down to the PVC pipe. I highly recommend doing as much as you can in a modular way. It allows the freedom to check everything first before sticking it all together. I think that If I build the missile deck piece by piece onto the PVC I would'nt find it as easy to check all dimensions and get that dreaded elusive symmetry that we all crave....
As can be seen by the last photos I have glued the plywood side pieces onto the profile pieces at either end and used tape to keep the tension whilst gluing. I could have used G-clamps but having a slight angle they would gradually ride off the assembly. I took the time to check the alignment of all the pieces.
As I was working on the creation of the Missile deck I also turned my attention to the fact that the 667 has raised hull section that at its lower end creates a typical missile deck groove that is so often found on the lower edge of missile boats. I assume it facilitates drainage under the missile deck section. In order to create this raised hull section which wraps either side , parallel with the missile deck and running just beneath it and up over the top of the hull I needed to cut and sand back to size a rectangular piece of PVC pipe that will be glued to the top of the PVC hull effectively increasing its diameter in an unbalanced way by about 3mm. Looking at the drawings you could see that the thickness of the PVC pipe was just ideal to match the thickness of the widened hull section. Yay!
You can see in these photos the raised PVC rectangular pipe section that forms the widened hull section that wraps around the top of the hull amid ships
Yep, I realized I should have used a piece of PVC pipe NOT left over from a building renovation. I have had to scrape away paint around the areas that I work. The raised hull sections will be pasted over with filler in order to create the gradual transition needed where this surface then lowers back into the over all hull diameter. I don't need to apply filler over the top however as this is where raised deck section will fit over the top. The lower edge of the missile deck will fillet very gradually into this raised section just above the groove.
667 had a date with the alignment board. It would come sooner or later. If you are scratch building a boat you simply can't do without it. This is the board where you have your model suspended between two centres as though you are going to turn it up on a lathe. It allows you to get your alignment right and work out your symmetry. Yep, that thing that subtly makes or breaks so many jobs. I bought a 90 mm pvc end cap that I could slip onto the edge of the pvc hull pipe. I drilled a hole dead centre and popped it on where the stern section will go. I then drilled a hole in the middle of the bow round section and places it on the spindle at either end.
Once the sides were glued down and checked over with the sliding bevel I started work on the top section. This top piece needed holes in it to correspond with the holes above the backbone structure underneath in order to get the self tapping screws into the backbone and through the PVC pipe to finally secure the missile deck when I am happy with it. This top piece was glued on the top and given time to glue. PVA glue can be slow. Over the top of this piece would eventually be glued the Renshape strip that would take all the detail of the missile deck. This would be one of the last things added and only after the deck was screwed in place. However there will be lots of times that the Renshape will be fixed down to the top of the deck whilst I check alignment, the start of the radius as the deck slopes around the sides and finally checking the transition between Renshape and plywood for scribing the detail of the sides of the missile hatch doors as they go around that radius.
Anyway, enough for now. As always any ideas tips and insights, welcome.
David H
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