Announcement

Collapse

Forum rules and expectations

Hello, and welcome to the forums at the Nautilus Drydocks, formerly Sub-driver.com!

We welcome anyone with a passion for submarines and a desire to learn and share knowledge about this fascinating hobby. Use of these forums indicates your intention to abide by our code of conduct:


1. No spam. All automated messages, advertisements, and links to competitor websites will be deleted immediately.

2. Please post in relevant sub-forums only. Messages posted in the wrong topic area will be removed and placed in the correct sub-forum by moderators.

3. Respect other users. No flaming or abusing fellow forum members. Users who continue to post inflammatory, abusive comments will be deleted from the forum after or without a warning.

4. No threats or harassment of other users will be tolerated. Any instance of threatening or harassing behavior is grounds for deletion from the forums.

5. No profanity or pornography is allowed. Posts containing adult material will be deleted.

6. No re-posting of copyrighted materials or other illegal content is allowed. Any posts containing illegal content or copyrighted materials will be deleted.
See more
See less

Scratch Build Soviet Project 667 BDRM Delta IV SSBN K-18 "Karelia" Scale 1/140

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #76
    David,
    Looking good. I may have a photo of the upper aft end of a Delta. It may not be a 4, but from photos I have seen, the basics look to be the same. I will post later today or tomorrow and you can make a call on that.
    Peace,
    Tom
    If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

    Comment


    • #77
      Hopefully some of this helps
      I have this book
      Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0334.jpg
Views:	3
Size:	10.9 KB
ID:	132145


      On the Delta there are these photos:
      Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0331.jpg
Views:	3
Size:	15.9 KB
ID:	132146
      Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0332.jpg
Views:	3
Size:	12.6 KB
ID:	132147
      Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0329.jpg
Views:	3
Size:	7.9 KB
ID:	132148
      Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0330.jpg
Views:	3
Size:	7.4 KB
ID:	132149

      The Yankee looks close, did the Russians really do much creative changes?
      Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0333.jpg
Views:	3
Size:	12.3 KB
ID:	132150
      If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

      Comment


      • #78
        Let us try a different way.
        If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

        Comment


        • #79
          I am missing how to get these photos larger.......
          If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

          Comment


          • #80
            Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0334.jpg
Views:	3
Size:	10.9 KB
ID:	132162Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0331.jpg
Views:	3
Size:	15.9 KB
ID:	132160Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0332.jpg
Views:	3
Size:	12.6 KB
ID:	132161Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0333.jpg
Views:	3
Size:	12.3 KB
ID:	132163Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0330.jpg
Views:	3
Size:	7.4 KB
ID:	132164Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0329.jpg
Views:	3
Size:	7.9 KB
ID:	132165

            One last try.
            If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

            Comment


            • #81
              Thanks for all the effort Trout. I have seen this book on Amazon. I didnít know if it was worth getting.

              The material youíve got there covers the earlier delta 2s and 3s and as you said , the yankees. Biggest difference between all of them and the Delta 4 is that the Delta four has a circular hull profile whereas all the earlier boats had an oval cross section. There were more drainage slots around the side of the missile deck and the stern had the twin booms arrangement of the Papa and Oscar which I think looks much nicer.


              Dave.

              Comment


              • #82
                Hello all,

                After gluing down the top Renshape strip along the missile deck I then glued the angled Renshape section that transitions back down to the hull. Just like the top section I glued it down with a mixture of filler that would squish out the sides and be wiped up. This section had less in the way of scribe work that wraps down the sides like the missile deck doors of the flat main section. As a result sanding and aligning this section turned out to be much easier.

                Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1347 (Large).JPG
Views:	2
Size:	84.8 KB
ID:	132251


                Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1347 (Large).JPG
Views:	2
Size:	84.8 KB
ID:	132253


                As I pressed down the angled section I took the try square and checked for square-ness. I then realised that there was a dip in the middle where the Renshape had gone through a dip and would need to
                paste some filler in place to bring the surface up to level. This would then need a smoothing and sanding over making sure that the transition between the Renshape and filler at either end is really consistent.
                As you can see I also pasted some filler around the sides, now needing to make sure that the radius of the hull curing up to meet the deck was consistent on both sides. I also carefully put some filler into the
                gap between the two Renshape pieces.I would need to Rescribe over where these joins occurred.



                Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1352 (Large).JPG
Views:	1
Size:	128.5 KB
ID:	132254


                Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1355 (Large).JPG
Views:	1
Size:	119.4 KB
ID:	132255

                I also use the Blue spray putty not only on the smaller 3D printed parts that I have made but also on sections of hull. It is pretty good at getting a low level fill of some of the smaller and shallower imperfections. I have a grey filler that I have also used, although I have found this grey one to be a bit lumpy. Once sprayed over I could them apply filler once again to areas of imperfection. I also once again went over the
                overall shape of the rear section and checked for quareness and straightness.

                Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1356 (Large).JPG
Views:	1
Size:	87.0 KB
ID:	132256



                Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1362 (Large).JPG
Views:	1
Size:	86.1 KB
ID:	132257



                Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1368 (Large).JPG
Views:	1
Size:	87.4 KB
ID:	132258



                Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1369 (Large).JPG
Views:	1
Size:	550.2 KB
ID:	132259



                Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1371 (Large).JPG
Views:	1
Size:	137.1 KB
ID:	132260



                As can be seen with the last photo there is quite a big drop between the transition from the angled deck to where it intersects with the rest of the hull. This is deliberate as there is a raised section that is flat but meets the angled deck as it comes down. To make this I have cut out a flat section of Renshape that will be glued down like at the front and then filled around the sides and sanded back..



                David H
                Attached Files

                Comment

                Working...
                X