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Scratch Build Soviet Project 667 BDRM Delta IV SSBN K-18 "Karelia" Scale 1/140

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  • #31
    Thanks Brady.


    Yes, I particularly like the 667 because it kind of has a sleek inelegant clunky-ness to it. There is always plenty of character in these designs with their over sized missile decks and control surfaces that just don't look adequate enough to do the job..

    Talking of missile decks. I have started building it and putting the pieces together. As I am making the missile deck as a unit that is stand alone I can make it and check every angle before bolting or in this case screwing it down to the PVC pipe. I highly recommend doing as much as you can in a modular way. It allows the freedom to check everything first before sticking it all together. I think that If I build the missile deck piece by piece onto the PVC I would'nt find it as easy to check all dimensions and get that dreaded elusive symmetry that we all crave....

    As can be seen by the last photos I have glued the plywood side pieces onto the profile pieces at either end and used tape to keep the tension whilst gluing. I could have used G-clamps but having a slight angle they would gradually ride off the assembly. I took the time to check the alignment of all the pieces.

    As I was working on the creation of the Missile deck I also turned my attention to the fact that the 667 has raised hull section that at its lower end creates a typical missile deck groove that is so often found on the lower edge of missile boats. I assume it facilitates drainage under the missile deck section. In order to create this raised hull section which wraps either side , parallel with the missile deck and running just beneath it and up over the top of the hull I needed to cut and sand back to size a rectangular piece of PVC pipe that will be glued to the top of the PVC hull effectively increasing its diameter in an unbalanced way by about 3mm. Looking at the drawings you could see that the thickness of the PVC pipe was just ideal to match the thickness of the widened hull section. Yay!



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    You can see in these photos the raised PVC rectangular pipe section that forms the widened hull section that wraps around the top of the hull amid ships





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    Yep, I realized I should have used a piece of PVC pipe NOT left over from a building renovation. I have had to scrape away paint around the areas that I work. The raised hull sections will be pasted over with filler in order to create the gradual transition needed where this surface then lowers back into the over all hull diameter. I don't need to apply filler over the top however as this is where raised deck section will fit over the top. The lower edge of the missile deck will fillet very gradually into this raised section just above the groove.

    667 had a date with the alignment board. It would come sooner or later. If you are scratch building a boat you simply can't do without it. This is the board where you have your model suspended between two centres as though you are going to turn it up on a lathe. It allows you to get your alignment right and work out your symmetry. Yep, that thing that subtly makes or breaks so many jobs. I bought a 90 mm pvc end cap that I could slip onto the edge of the pvc hull pipe. I drilled a hole dead centre and popped it on where the stern section will go. I then drilled a hole in the middle of the bow round section and places it on the spindle at either end.


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    Once the sides were glued down and checked over with the sliding bevel I started work on the top section. This top piece needed holes in it to correspond with the holes above the backbone structure underneath in order to get the self tapping screws into the backbone and through the PVC pipe to finally secure the missile deck when I am happy with it. This top piece was glued on the top and given time to glue. PVA glue can be slow. Over the top of this piece would eventually be glued the Renshape strip that would take all the detail of the missile deck. This would be one of the last things added and only after the deck was screwed in place. However there will be lots of times that the Renshape will be fixed down to the top of the deck whilst I check alignment, the start of the radius as the deck slopes around the sides and finally checking the transition between Renshape and plywood for scribing the detail of the sides of the missile hatch doors as they go around that radius.



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    Anyway, enough for now. As always any ideas tips and insights, welcome.

    David H

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    • #32
      Hello all, Quiet week..

      I have been flat out with a couple of orders lately and haven't had much time to develop the 667 further. However have managed to get the missile deck mostly completed. The top and sides of the level deck up front have been done and so now mainly called for the sloping rear deck to be completed. I marked out on the rear hull section where the sloping deck meets and transitions into the rear hull. Where the missile deck meets the rear hull will be a slightly raised flat deck section. This allows the narrowed deck as it slopes to level yet keep a walkway path that is generally about the same width until it gets closer to the very stern where is gradually evolves into oblivion. The top rear section sits just behind the main flat section and glues into a recess. The two side pieces are triangular but feature a slight cut away where the raised hull section transitions to the main diameter before the end of the missile deck. I also had to Champfer the underside edges of the rear vertical pieces because they meet the curved hull section at such an angle that they thickness of these pieces would mean they would stick out. I took a plane and trimmed off material at quite a steep angle.


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      Along with angling the lower edges to conform to the radius of the hull I also ground out a curves section on the underside of the rear end of the structure to accommodate the fact that the flat rear deck needs to meet a curved hull section that will curve down either side of the deck. This is simply to make sure that the deck is as low as possible when it transitions. Once the top section was carefully glued in place with the right angle to transition to flat. I cut out and glued in a triangular web section to reinforce the top piece and make sure it stays at the exact angle I need it to. From here I could glue the sides on.



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      Once the missile deck had all its surfaces, it would be a case of sanding and making sure all the surfaces were flush with each other. I would also take the sliding bevel set to the right angles to make sure that the surfaces were at the corrects angles sloping inwards on either side. On old sailing ships this outward angling surface I believe was known as the "Tumblehome". After running the sliding bevel along it became pretty clear that it was consistent along the length of the missile deck, even at the transition where it slopes down and inwards towards the stern.

      The front section of the missile deck received small pieces of plywood that were glued in from the front of the sides and met at the front in the highly tapered front section. I spent some time sanding underneath as like the stern section it would be transitioning with the curvature of the hull. The lower section her where the deck meets the hull can actually be left a bit rough as there will be some substantial filleting with filler as the transition between hull and deck vertical surface becomes obvious. This won't happen until I am happy with the missile deck before I screw it down to the top of the hull with the self tappers.



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      Enough for now..


      David H








































































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      • #33
        Hello all,

        The missile deck has been built however I have had to spend some time using the sliding bevel to check that all the surfaces are consistent and that there is symmetry. This is especially the case with the
        front of the deck. The tapering angle as the whole deck moves forward and meets the rear of the fin has to be even and square. Once the deck was straight and even I could apply a coat of resin. After this was applied I sanded it back and gave it a shot of primer to see the inconsistencies and undulations. Then I would take to it again with some filler and sand back further.

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        After getting the missile compartment complete, I decided to turn my attention to the bow of the boat. I decided that I would start with developing the bow details, mainly the torpedo loading hatches, the Torpedo tube doors, Bow conformal array, and forward vents and hatches. However I placed the bow section on the marking board to get the overall features and alignment down first. l then detached the bow section from the PVC pipe, I started ruling up and marking out the areas where the scribing would need to take place. Once this was done, I took to the Dremel to grind out a small channel that follows the lines of the marking. AS mentioned in previous builds the Bow section is not Renshape. It's too expensive to make an entire bow out for me, so I grind with the Dremel and then fill in with a layer of filler. I cut up a piece of plastic milk bottle and use it as a screeding tool to produce a smooth slightly curved layer of for want of a better term, an extruded layer of filler, slightly overfilled.


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        Granted its pretty rough initially. This would require a new remarking after the filler had gone down to make sure that the lines were just where they needed to be. The torpedo doors take a little time to get right because they are effectively elliptical so that when seen front on they look round. This can be tricky to get right on a compound curve. The Dremel tool took material off to about 2mm.


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        Once the filler is dried it is time to hit it with the 230 grit moving to around the 400 grit when the filler gets smooth. I have found that the filler needs an over fill again after this initial sanding back. Once this is dry then a final thorough sanding is needed to bring the filled surface down to level with the rest of the bow. You have to be careful that you don't take off the smooth surface of the resin all around so the sanding to some degree, needs to be strategic. I then take to the surface with 600 grit and up to around 800 maybe 1000. Then remark and line up the details to be etched. Then etch..

        This thread has been a bit quiet lately but I need some detective work. After seeing the "investigative muscle" applied to Scott's November I though I could call on some help with details. I am finding it difficult to get photos and details on a very subtle part of the 667. On the very bottom of the hull amidships, is a section of hull probably only 10-15 metres long that has what looks like angled fillets that mean that the underside of the hull is potentially flat? These subtle bulges don't really show very well on the pics I have and I assume are hard to draw because all the drawing I have seen reveal very little. I recently found this pics of what I think is a Yankee or a Delta 1-2 where the hull is cut in half for scrapping. You can see a flat section at the very bottom of the hull, I have circled it in yellow. I think this is it..

        Anyone know?......



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        Also does any one have really good close up pics of the front two Reactor scoops? ... Gantu? I'd really like to have a closer look at the grill arrangement at the front..

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        Anyway look forward to some pics or ideas. Thanks lads...


        David H


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        • #34
          http://www.die-kartonmodellbauer.de/...-250/&pageNo=1

          Though it is a papercard model, it seems quite accurate.however it lacks high detail. There is a good depiction of the scoopes on page 2. The flat section you marked should actually be of the delta iv, right at the bottom of the missile tube section. I have got line drawings of yankee bulkheads not showing this. Also notice the small gab between the main hull and the lower edge of the missile housing.one other thing id like to mention is, i found closeup pictures of the flat deck in front of the sail. That deck does not run level all the way below the sail and the missile comp, but ends under the forward half of the sail. It narrows in towards the circular main hull. Will see i upload the pictures. Nice work,David!
          Jörg

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          • #35
            Thanks Jorg,

            I got onto a Russian site last night and found some really good details on the flat base under the missile deck. Those cardboard models are impressive
            thanks for finding them.


            Dave

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            • #36
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              I zoomed in and adjusted brightness to bring out some details. Hope it helps.
              Attached Files
              Last edited by trout; 02-23-2019, 02:56 AM.
              If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

              Comment


              • #37
                Hope this helps, too:
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                • #38
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                  And still more...
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                  • #39
                    And finally...
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                    • #40
                      Could someone please tell me why two posts do not show up. Marked 'unapproved'. Wrong picture scale?

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                      • #41
                        I try again...
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                        • #42
                          Ahh here we go...
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                          • #43
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                            Some more...
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                            Last edited by JHapprich; 02-23-2019, 04:04 PM.

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                            • #44
                              Hope i did not double post... now i messed up your building thread, Dave!

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                              • #45
                                What a goldmine of photos. I love it!

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