jims Tyhpoon TK-208 build

[deepseadiver]

Here's what I have done so far to the electronic box I have the holes drilled a custom lip I placed over them which the groove for the rubber gasket goes into them. Next I'm going to install SS bolts, epoxy them in place all 44 of them .

Comments welcomed !

[deepseadiver]

once I get them out I will trim off the excess resin

[deepseadiver]

more pictures

[deepseadiver]

here are some lead weight shot In the keel I used plastic wrap because I did not have any wax paper seem to work just fine and it came off the resin once it cured plastic wrap peeled right off. Now I can have all the weight required In the keel and easy to remove if I need to during trimming. Once I know the correct weight I will glue them in. What do you think ?

[deepseadiver]

All the Engel Typhoon hulls have that gap at the bow, think it's a fault in the tooling.

Most builders fill it in, then extend the anechoic tile lines. Some have used an epoxy putty rather than polyester car filler. Epoxy putty is much tougher and resistant to chipping.

Subculture thank you for that advice yes I noticed other builders are having that problem in the front.

I wanted to mention that I had a large gap of 1/4 inch in the front at first I was told by others this can be helped . I place in my hold down screw then placed a 4x4 piece of wood underneath the front with foam padding. Then I put padding over the top and place a 25 pound weight on top, which then close up the gap almost all the way.
Then i place a space heater In front of the nose let it cool 3 times in a row, took off the weight and most of the gap is gone . Now the hold down screw tightens down even more.

I Like your advise just need to fill in the rest of the gap as you mentioned using epoxy, since it wont chip as easily!

your information is very helpful
Jim

[Subculture]

All the Engel Typhoon hulls have that gap at the bow, think it's a fault in the tooling.

Most builders fill it in, then extend the anechoic tile lines. Some have used an epoxy putty rather than polyester car filler. Epoxy putty is much tougher and resistant to chipping.

[deepseadiver]

Good old bondo stuff works great or I was thinking of using baking soda, and crazy, glue put those together you get a quick cement like material almost instantly then sand to shape . But I always consider using auto body as well . Thanks for the comment
jim

[rcgrsemunki]

[QUOTE=deepseadiver;n128489]more pictures of build I don't really like the crack in the middle of the bows front half's maybe when its black that will be less noticeable or is there a way to make that smaller were should I sand. I have the hold down bolt all ready installed goes in from the bottom. maybe I will need to use some filler? ideas comments any one.[/QUOTE

I used automotive body filler to fill mine. Was a bit of a pain keeping it where I wanted it but it seemed to work out well.

[deepseadiver]

more pictures of build I don't really like the crack in the middle of the bows front half's maybe when its black that will be less noticeable or is there a way to make that smaller were should I sand. I have the hold down bolt all ready installed goes in from the bottom. maybe I will need to use some filler? ideas comments any one.

[deepseadiver]

status ON rumor that they were going to stop making the Typhoon GOOD NEWS!!!!!

They are not discontinuing the typhoon that was incorrect information that was given. I got in contact with them about it. .

[deepseadiver]

more pictures of the cut out top with clear acrylic viewing windows turned out perfect . I will be adding many more bolts then the little black dots you see. I am going out to buy 3/4 bolts with wing nuts that are stainless steel very soon. I need to get some more rubber sealing cord then what I got in the Engel kit I need much more. The picture that's bob's boat I really like the bolt pattern I will be copying it. 44 bolt pattern

[deepseadiver]

did my cut outs and I noticed to cut through the steel reinforcement I used my dermel with a metal cutting saw wheel, it cut through the steel like butter but lots of sparks flying everywhere. That was Fun !

Question for you bob and all that see this. Those two steel strips I took out have some weight to them since Engel design the boat to have that weight. Besides the lead shot that must be added as well. I think I may add that to the keel as a removal weight so if I need it I can add it right back to the keel center of boat. its about 1 1/2 pounds I would say . What do you think?

[deepseadiver]

first steps of measuring my cut outs .

[deepseadiver]

Jim, as a first suggestion, I'd highly recommend cutting the access plate for the top of the waterproof box to make for much larger openings. Engel way over-engineered those lids and it will be a chore (they're reinforced with steel), but it's worth it to get easier access to the interior. Replace the aluminum lids with clear acrylic and you'll get visibility to the interior of the boat, even when sealed.

Also, invest in a power nut-driver. All of those nuts to get in and out of the compartment are a royal pain.

Hi Bob
yes I agree that is a must to do I will be posting pictures next of my process

[RCSubGuy]

Jim, as a first suggestion, I'd highly recommend cutting the access plate for the top of the waterproof box to make for much larger openings. Engel way over-engineered those lids and it will be a chore (they're reinforced with steel), but it's worth it to get easier access to the interior. Replace the aluminum lids with clear acrylic and you'll get visibility to the interior of the boat, even when sealed.

Also, invest in a power nut-driver. All of those nuts to get in and out of the compartment are a royal pain.