Moebius Skipjack

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  • trout
    replied
    David,
    Is this a newer paint that you are using? What made you move to this brand (other than it works)?

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by Ken_NJ
    First coat of cloth/epoxy is on and drying. Iâm looking way ahead. What paint, manufacturer, should I use? I have a new airbrush I can use. Iâd assume most of the paint should be flat? Not sure the zinc chromate is available?

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    invest in this system: Ultra 9K Waterborne Refinish System | Automotive Finishes (sherwin-williams.com)

    Accept no substitutes!

    David

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  • Ken_NJ
    replied
    Apply filler, sand, apply cloth/epoxy, sand, apply epoxy, sand, apply glazing putty, sand, apply glazing putty again, sand. That's what I've been doing the last few days.

    The filler and epoxy has eliminated the ridge between sections and now as expected have to deal with ridge between the epoxy and polystyrene. These differences are not noticeable in the pictures but they are there. Smoothing this out is accomplished with glazing putty and sanding and feathering. Once sanding is done I expect to see bands of glazing on either side of the hull seam.

    The gaps in the corners where the upper and lower sections meet were also eliminated. See previous pictures.

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    Arrows are about where most of the glazing putty will end up.

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    More sanding to do here. Two of those openings were covered up, will open those up again.

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    Anxious to get this over with and get on to other more interesting mechanical bits.

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  • Ken_NJ
    replied
    Thanks Tom, will check into it. Yea would like to hear from David.

    In the meantime feathering the first coat of epoxy. I added gray colorant but it came out translucent. The one thing I dislike most about model building... sanding.

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    Last edited by Ken_NJ; 02-11-2021, 12:52 PM.

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  • trout
    replied
    Ken,
    Take a look at Revell’s suggestions: https://downloads.revell.de/Manuals-Modelkits/05119.pdf
    David can speak to the accuracy of any of it.

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  • Ken_NJ
    replied
    First coat of cloth/epoxy is on and drying. I’m looking way ahead. What paint, manufacturer, should I use? I have a new airbrush I can use. I’d assume most of the paint should be flat? Not sure the zinc chromate is available?

    Click image for larger version

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    Attached Files

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  • redboat219
    replied
    Originally posted by He Who Shall Not Be Named

    ...how about taking advice from a guy who's actually finished something.
    Wasn't giving. I was asking.

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by redboat219
    How about thin plastic card bonded to the underside?
    ...how about taking advice from a guy who's actually finished something.

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  • redboat219
    replied
    How about thin plastic card bonded to the underside?

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by Ken_NJ
    Never worked with angel hair fiberglass, this it?

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    Wouldn't a coat of epoxy create a ridge and be difficult to fair into the polystyrene where it ends?
    No.

    .74 ounce-per-square-yard fiberglass cloth. 0.73 oz Style 106 Fiberglass Cloth with Volan Finish - Fiberglass Cloth Supply and Education (thayercraft.com)

    Light weight stuff. Sanding will feather edge the transition from cloth laminate and polystyrene surface. That fairing is also the job of putty and primer.

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  • Ken_NJ
    replied
    Never worked with angel hair fiberglass, this it?

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    Wouldn't a coat of epoxy create a ridge and be difficult to fair into the polystyrene where it ends?

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  • Ken_NJ
    replied
    I have not worked with angel hair before, this stuff?

    https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai=...gQIHBA9&adurl=

    Wouldn’t a coat of epoxy create quite a ridge and be difficult to fair where it ends?
    Last edited by Ken_NJ; 02-08-2021, 03:42 PM.

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by Ken_NJ
    David, any suggestions on the misalignment on the hull sections, first picture? And the gaps in the corners?
    Lay on that two-part filler you're using and even up the depressed side to match the high side. Lay on some angel-hair impregnated with laminating epoxy (West system recommended) over the filler portions. This will keep the filler from delaminating later and to toughen the models surface to something near uniformity with the polystyrene the kit's made of.

    Use CA and baking soda to fill the radial and longitudinal gaps. Overlay the glass here too.

    Sand, another coat of thinned epoxy resin (cut it with lacquer thinner), and sand. Prime, and carry on.

    Finish that damned boat, then drive it like a rental!

    David
    Last edited by He Who Shall Not Be Named; 02-08-2021, 03:25 PM.

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  • Ken_NJ
    replied
    David, any suggestions on the misalignment on the hull sections, first picture? And the gaps in the corners?
    Last edited by Ken_NJ; 02-08-2021, 02:24 PM.

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  • Ken_NJ
    replied
    Some issues. The lower hull sections are off. All I can think of is sand away some of the high side and use filler on the low side. Thoughts about this?

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    Starboard side, have a gap between the upper and lower section in the corner. The lower section is on top in this picture. I’m working on the radial gap by cutting the gap to equal width then filling with styrene.

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    This is the port side. Same gaps in the corner between upper and lower sections.

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    The upper topside hull sections are not as bad as the lower hull. This is the glazing putty I have on hand. Should I use this as filler?

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    Last edited by Ken_NJ; 02-08-2021, 02:23 PM.

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